Collagen 101: What you need to know about this skin saviour
Collagen is having its moment in the world of beauty and health at the moment, taking the form of tablets, creams, lotions and powders that promise to hydrate skin and reduce signs of ageing, but do these products actually work?
Products such as Happy Healthy You’s Happy Collagen powder include benefits for overall skin health, hydration and nutrition, and it turns out that collagen is one of the most abundant proteins found in the human body in our skin, muscles, tendons and bones.
Renee Grandi, a naturopath, nutritionist and collagen advocate who helped create Happy Collagen, tells OverSixty that collagen is the “body’s scaffolding system”, which is “critical” for the structure of your skin matrix, arteries, digestive tract, uterine/vaginal tissue, cartilage, eyes and bones.
Collagen Type I makes up between 60-80 percent of the collagen peptides in our skin’s dermal layers. Image: PubChem
“Collagen constitutes 95 percent of human skin, so it’s a big deal,” she says. “Collagen peptides are formed from glycine, proline, hydroxyproline and arginine amino acids.”
There are even different types of collagen - types I through V being the most common - with types I and III making up a combined 90 percent of our skin’s dermal layers.
But, ageing (particularly the onset of menopause), lifestyle habits, and even stress can cause collagen to degrade over time - which is where supplements can come in.
“Those that are more likely to need a collagen boost include women going through perimenopause and menopause as this is when collagen production particularly starts to diminish,” Grandi says.
“This is due to lowered oestrogen levels and increased adrenal stress/fatigue.
“The adrenal glands become the primary source of oestrogen instead of the ovaries during menopause. Unfortunately, when we're stressed and cortisol is heightened, cortisol takes precedence over collagen and oestrogen production.
“There’s an average of 2.1% skin-collagen decline for post-menopausal women per year. This can also impact predispositions to accelerated ageing, uterine prolapse, vulvovaginal atrophy, and bone and joint pain. Collagen is essential for women in menopause, especially if you've had a hysterectomy. A collagen supplement is an easy way to ensure you’re getting your recommended intake.”
Food vs skincare
Though collagen got its start as a skincare treatment, the protein isn’t well-suited to these kinds of products since it is too large to penetrate the skin, Dr Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at New York City’s Mount Sinai Hospital, told Everyday Health.
This is why collagen products nowadays use collagen peptides (hydrolyzed collagen), which is already broken down, making it easier for collagen to be absorbed in a similar way to when we eat it.
Some of the food we eat can contain collagen - think bone broths, eggs, octopus and squid - which is broken down into amino acids that circulate in the blood.
But, Grandi says supplements can make it easier for people to get the amount of collagen they need every day.
“To boost your collagen for therapeutic integrations you would have to eat about 3-4 servings of collagen-rich foods per day,” Grandi explains.
“The best practice is to focus on a holistic approach to skincare with strategic diet, lifestyle, product and supplement interventions.
“For instance, you need a healthy gut and skin microbiome to achieve such results, it’s so empowering to learn about what goes on behind the scenes of your skin!”
However, upping your collagen intake, whether through diet, supplements, or both, Grandi says it isn’t just a matter of consuming every kind of collagen you can get your hands on.
“The trend became to have every form of collagen available and the “more collagen the better mentality”,” she says.
“In reality, the body only uses type 1 and type 3 collagen to improve the skin matrix which is most abundant in bovine collagen. The body also does not need more than 5 grams per day. Any more simply will not be assimilated by the body.”
Grandi adds that this is why products like Happy Collagen stand out from the crowd of other products that aren’t as selective.
“We conducted two years of developmental testing of different forms of collagen and the range of supporting skin nutritional ingredients in the formula,” she says. “We also worked with our Happy Healthy You Community and our practitioner team for their feedback.”
Where collagen comes from makes a difference
Collagen products can source collagen from one of two sources: marine and bovine.
Marine collagen comes from the skin and scales of fish, and tends to contain types I and II, the collagen which is found in cartilage and eye structures.
In comparison, bovine collagen contains both type I and III, and is the kind of collagen used in Happy Collagen products.
For women over 50, types I and III can have additional benefits besides improving the skin’s appearance.
Products like Happy Healthy You’s Happy Collagen powder use bovine collagen, which contains types I and III, for maximum benefits for your skin. Image: Supplied
“Research shows that menopausal women and women suffering from pelvic organ prolapses, vulvovaginal atrophy, genitourinary dysregulation, and painful sex may have significantly reduced levels of collagen type I & III peptides,” Grandi explains.
“Type I collagen enhances skin membrane health, wound healing, tissue regeneration, bone, hair, nails, tendons and even your eyes' cornea! Type III is ideal for uterine health, inflammation, cartilage, and cardiovascular integrity. This makes bovine collagen a powerful healing resource for women over 50.”
If you are considering introducing collagen supplements into your diet, it’s recommended you seek the advice of a medical professional first.
Grandi also advises to add food rich in vitamin C and zinc to “support collagen production and utilisation while taking a collagen supplement”.
But, improving your skin health with supplements isn’t just about collagen either, Grandi says.
“There is a range of other factors such as digestion, oxidation and stress that need to be addressed in a formula as well.”
Image: Getty Images