Travel guide to the island where Napoleon was exiled
In 1814, and following a disastrous campaign in Russia, a battered Emperor Napoleon was forced into exile on the Italian island of Elba. He stayed less than a year before escaping and returning to Europe with dreams of victory, but that too would end in defeat at Waterloo. Looking at the gorgeous island today, it’s hard to imagine why he would have wanted to leave…
Where is it?
Elba is part of the Tuscany region and sits in the Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s around 10 kilometres off the west coast of Italy and flanked on the opposite side by the French island of Corsica. It is the third largest of Italy’s islands (behind Sardinia and Sicily) and the largest island of the Tuscan archipelago.
What should I do?
As much or as little as you like! The island’s 147 kilometres of coastline are dotted with some of the most gorgeous beaches in Italy. There are almost 200 of them, ranging from long sandy arcs to white pebbled coves and tiny bays accessible only by boat, where you can swim, snorkel or dive in the startling blue ocean. On land, the island’s rugged terrain makes it a paradise for hiking and mountain biking, or you can take a chairlift to the top of Mount Capanne, the highest peak.
The island is also rich in history. You can visit Napoleon’s two villas, which have been beautifully maintained with impressive art collections and manicured formal gardens. But Elba was on the map long before his arrival and has been occupied by the Etruscans, Ligurians, Greeks, Romans, French, Spanish, English and more, who have all left their own unique stamp on the island. Finish your days with a glass (or two) of the very good local wine and a seafood feast pulled straight from the ocean.
When should I go?
Avoid August when the island can be completely packed with Italian tourists – you’ll be lucky to find a hotel room. For the rest of the year, it’s blissfully quiet and you can find yourself pottering around deserted beaches and driving winding coastal roads without another visitor in sight.
How can I get there?
Take a ferry from the mainland town of Piombino and arrive in the charming capital of Portoferraio. The journey takes around an hour and must be one of the most beautiful ferry crossings in the world. There is also a small airport on the island and you can fly from Florence, Pisa, Milan, Lugano, Bern or Zurich.
Have you ever visited the Italian island of Elba? Let us know in the comments below.