At 69 I rode a motorbike across America
Intrepid seniors David and Lona Brown had the full Easy Rider experience at 69 and 70, motor biking around the United States. Here’s their incredible story.
We came to Newcastle NSW and have never wanted to leave.
I’ve been in real estate since 1969 and Lona has worked with me at the office, as well as raising our free children. We never lost our lust for travel, taking the kids to England for six months in 1978. In 1990 we did Europe in a 17 foot camper following Italia 90.
It wall really started in 2003, when I retired from 30 years in real estate.
We had joined a friend with 44 foot catamaran in Chicago for a trip south through the American river systems to finish in Mobile on the Gulf of Mexico.
I envisaged a cross country motorcycle ride. Lona was a bit miffed at that idea and thought she would enjoy Wal-Mart and its shoe department much more if we bought a motor home and were not so restricted luggage wise! So by a stroke of good luck mates of ours in Ulysses happened to have some very good friends in Austin Texas which solved lots of problems for us.
We finished up in 2004 with a 30 foot motor home, a trailer with a 650GS BMW on the back. Five months and 29 States later I still wanted the bike trip.
For 2009 I finally convinced her that a trip across the States on a bike would not be such a bad idea. Having met a Californian Ulyssian in 2006 and admired his new Honda Goldwing at his home in Camarillo, near Thousand Oaks I emailed him to be on the lookout for perhaps an ST1100 to make such a trip. He came straight back to me with an offer to buy his ‘06 Wing.
That was Feb/March this year 2009, Mark in Camarillo agreed to store the bike until we got there in July, pick us up from the airport, and billet us for a few days until we got sorted out.
We flew from Sydney and Mark was there to pick us up and drive us the 50 miles north to his home. A nice three days there, buying Lona a new helmet, some super lightweight bike boots and gloves and we were ready for the road.
Another Ulysses acquaintance we know lives half the year near Bakersfield California and the other half between Newcastle and Brisbane and I had promised to visit her for a couple of days.
So we left Mark and Karla very appreciative of their hospitality, which by the way is typical of most Americans we have met, they are across the board very welcoming people.
We set off north to Ventura and then north/east to Bakersfield and Springville at the base of the western side of the Sierra Nevada mountains. After a couple of days with Kate, including a memorable night with a dozen or so of her friends at the Springville Inn with a backdrop of good food and live music reflecting the local country style, we set off eastward again.
Over the Sierra Nevada’s we continued on into Death Valley with temperatures rising. The co-pilot was feeding me bottles of water over my shoulder, until our first stop for fuel and more water at Panamint Springs.
Burning up we were committed to reach our planned destination at Stovepipe Wells where we collapsed into an air conditioned motel room having checked the thermometer over the General Store door which was reading 120°F in the shade.
20 miles along the road next morning was breakfast at the aptly named Furnace Creek! More stifling heat for the rest of the day as we made our way out of Death Valley stopping to admire the panorama from Dante’s View which is about 12 miles off the highway up an “interesting” switchback ride. Returning to a more normal landscape we made our way back to civilization arriving at Summer Bay Las Vegas Resort in the gambling capital of the world.
Much to Madams disgust Bette Midler was away for July, the best show we saw was Aussies, Human Nature. Not being a gambler the ancillary expenses were minimal and the hand brake tells me she only lost about $20 on the “slots”.
Moving on we travelled via Lake Mead and Hoover Dam to Kingman on old route 66, from there we took the old road through Peach Springs and into Seligman where we stayed at the DeLuxe motel, which was the epitome of non-deluxe, but it was air conditioned, and we had a great afternoon at the Black Cat Bar with some locals.
Next day was a diversion to catch up with Papadavenrebel at Clarkdale. So south on 89 to Prescott and then north on 89A to Jerome, an old mining town of 15,000 people in the late 1800’s for the gold and copper, now about 500 inhabitants and picturesque hanging as it does on the side of a mountain. Down the mountain into Clarkdale and an hour or two with Dave and Rebecca before we headed up to Flagstaff via Sedona which is an ultra-touristy small town which we just drove slowly through.
Back onto Interstate 40 from Flagstaff and a quick trip across to Winslow Arizona well known to Eagles fans that are familiar with the words to “Take it Easy”.
Arrived in Austin on the 29th August to the usual Owens welcome and had great week with them as usual, a blaze of cards, meals out, a crazy poker night where they change the game after each hand. I took the grandchildren Hayley and Cody for a ride on the bike when Laura and Eric came over to celebrate Eric’s birthday.
All in all the Owens are wonderful hosts and we had a few laughs on the two Sundays with the pool, volleyball. From Austin we went a little north to take in famous civil war battle site at Vicksburg.
The battlefield site was intriguing with the main interest an exhibit of the remains of the USS Cairo an iron clad river boat developed into an early version warship bristling with guns and driven by a stern paddle wheel.
From there we just wanted to get to Florida. We had been advised to take the circuitous route around the Gulf coast and take in Fort Walton Beach and Destin Beach. Through some fault of my own, like not having studied the map enough I got confused and took 98 too early instead of staying on I-10 through Pensacola, all very easy when you know how.
We were recommended to any one of half dozen restaurants cause her indoors had had enough of burger and fries and wanted a “proper meal”. We went to Staffs just down the road where Dave the barman made us welcome with a couple of beers and a bourbon and coke while we perused the menu.
Lona had a fish we had never heard of, amberjack and I had grouper. We really enjoyed the whole thing except I think I overindulged a little and suffered a bit later. It dawned a little doubtful weather wise the next day and within 10 miles we had the wet jackets on, didn’t have any wet pants with us!!
The light shower was enough to prevent any pictures of Destin Beach which was a shame as it was all it had been suggested it would be, a very pretty bay with white sand shores, and the high rise apartments to go with it.
We pushed on to try to make Lake City and leave us one days ride to finish but torrential rain and high wind stopped us 30 miles short at a small town called Live Oak. Up until now the coolest morning we’d had was 74 F, with most days between 85-100 F
Into Econolodge for the night where Shirl the receptionist got us and the bike under cover real quick and after a shower and the reverse cycle air con on heat for the evening everything was dry by morning.
Last day, maybe? 350 miles to go. With a Supercentre Wal-Mart across the road I decided we needed some insurance, a pair of wet pants each. You know what? It worked, no rain. Blazing hot all day as we made our boring way down the spine of Florida on I-75, then on the Florida Turnpike, finally joining I-95 for the run into West Palm Beach.
Our host cousin Gary was busy for the afternoon so we decided to indulge in a cold beer at the previously tried and tested Queen Mary English Pub.
To our eternal disappointment it was closed awaiting new owners. Still 100 F.
Wow, what an incredible adventure? Doesn’t this sound fantastic? Have you ever taken a similar trip, and if so how did you manage? Let us know in the comments.
No matter where you’re travelling to, making sure you know how to access your cash while away – and in the most affordable way – is very important. Easy to use and with countless benefits, the Over60 Cash Passport allows you to securely access your cash in the same way you use an ATM or credit card. To apply for a card today, click here.
Related links:
6 of the best European beaches to visit
The story behind that Wanaka Tree
7 best beaches on Australia’s east coast