The secrets of the Spit Bridge to Manly walk
Robyn Kennedy loves to explore and photograph Sydney and surrounds. Her blog Life Out & About has become a passion, sharing ideas for outings in and around Sydney - charming gardens, bush walks, art galleries and inspiring places to eat!
This outing covers a visit to the historic huts at Crater Cove, as well as a coastal walk along a section of the much loved Spit Bridge to Manly walk. What many hikers don’t realise is there’s much more to this area than the stunning views and secluded beaches. Clinging precariously to the rock ledges of Crater Cove lies a small scattering of historic fisherman’s huts, constructed from locally found materials; beach rocks, driftwood, old timber, corrugated iron and vintage bottles. Their rustic appeal attracts a few adventurous hikers, those who persist in finding the hidden path!
Crater Cove – Hidden Path to the Huts
Crater Cove Lookout 2016 – Dobroyd Scenic Drive, Balgowlah Heights
The Crater Cove Lookout at Dobroyd Scenic Drive, Balgowlah Heights offers expansive 180 degree views over the harbour. It’s the perfect place to start your walk to Crater Cove and Manly… and it’s all downhill.
It had been 9 years since our last visit to the ‘cove settlement’. We were curious to see the state of the old fisherman’s huts, but could we still find the hidden path!
It’s obvious the National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) don’t want to encourage visitors to the cove. There are no signposts, nor any mention of the huts on their website. Fortunately there are many other sites including Google that provide information on finding the huts (Google Crater Cove and you will see the path marked on the map).
Finding the Hidden Path
Crater Cove – Hidden path & cove – Welcome from 2007
Very close to the Crater Cove Lookout there’s access to a well established bush track. This is the main track that will lead you down to the harbour foreshore, and on to Manly. Follow this track as it heads north east through the scrub and down a large set of stairs. Not far from the base of the stairs, and just past the track to Beatty Street, you will find the hidden path, branching off the main track to the right.
The hidden path is narrow, rough and at times quite muddy. It appears as a tunnel through the trees. Having good hiking boots and a willingness to scramble over rocks is needed for this walk… and it’s worth it!
Crater Cove Huts & Settlement – 2016
Historic Huts
Crater Cove 2016 – old fisherman’s huts constructed from locally found materials, beach rocks, driftwood, old timber, corrugated iron and bottles
After 10 minutes on the track you will arrive at the clifftop huts, located at the eastern end of the cove. What an idyllic setting, perched on the cliffs and surrounded by the fabulous Sydney Harbour! You will find a number of stone pathways and bush tracks that lead you to other huts in the settlement.
Although the huts appear quite fragile, they are still standing after decades of exposure to the elements… and some abuse by vandals! Scattered around the huts are old buoys, kettles and other rustic remains, harking back to a time when life was much more simple.
NPWS Volunteers
Except for a handful of visitors and an NPWS volunteer, we were the only ones there… and a few eastern water dragons as well! Usually a NPWS volunteer maintains the huts and gardens, I believe they have some connection to the history of the settlement.
Being such a fragile area it is understandable that the NPWS volunteers are concerned about inconsiderate visitors scrambling over the site. Please don’t enter or climb on the huts, and whatever you do, don’t ask the volunteers if they live there! They really don’t like being asked too many questions, especially this one.
Crater Cove Huts & the eastern water dragon – 2016
A Little History
The huts that are still standing today were apparently built between 1923 and 1963 for recreational purposes. Although not originally intended to be permanently occupied, there was a small group of people who called this place home during the 70s and 80s. They were searching for a simpler way of living, and they had found it! Sadly for the residents of the cove, the NPWS felt that national parks were not places for human habitation, they were evicted in 1987. The longest term resident was Simon, and this had been his home for 18 years!
Crater Cove to Manly
Crater Cove to Manly walk – shady paths & secluded beaches
After spending a good 45 minutes at the cove, we headed off to Manly. The main track takes you through coastal scrub and tall gumtree forests. As you wind your way along the shoreline, past tiny sheltered beaches and stunning harbour vistas, it’s easy to appreciate why this is a much loved walk.
Reef Beach
Crater Cove to Manly walk – Reef Beach
The first secluded beach you encounter is Reef Beach, which is easily accessed by stairs from the main track. This is a great little spot if you fancy a quick dip… or just want to cool off under one of the large shady trees that overhangs the beach and rocks.
Forty Baskets Beach
Crater Cover to Manly walk – Forty Baskets beach.
Tucked neatly into Manly Cove, this gorgeous little beach offers beautiful views, calm waters and shaded grass areas.
North Harbour Reserve to Manly
Crater Cove to Manly – getting close to Manly
Continuing on from Forty Baskets, past Davis Marina you will eventually arrive at North Harbour Reserve. If you’re hanging for a coffee or bite to eat there’s a small café ’40 Beans’… we preferred to wait until we got to Manly.
When you get a little closer to Manly, the track turns into a well paved footpath, with lawns and gardens down to the waterfront. You’re on the home stretch now!
Image credits: Robyn Kennedy
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