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Couple’s hiking trip thrown into jeopardy days before take off

When US-based couple Neil Lapetina and Denise Cordero spent $20,000 to explore the world - and one of its most unique locations - they had dreams of a once-in-a-lifetime hike through Lord Howe Island’s stunning scenery. But days before their departure, their excitement turned to horror when the pair learned that a large number of eco-destinations had been suddenly closed off - up to 75 per cent of them. The reason? The Lord Howe Island Board [LHIB] were working to contain an airborne fungus with potentially devastating consequences for the World Heritage-listed destination, and the 241 species of Indigenous plants to which it is home - 47 per cent of which can only be found there. Additionally, those can primarily be found along the island’s numerous hiking trails in the Permanent Park Preserve [PPP], prompting the mass closures for three-quarters of its total area. However, this meant that Neil and Denise - as well as any other traveller with tickets to visit - were in some trouble, as compensation wasn’t being offered to them. “We were told that they knew about this on February 3,” Neil said, “by their own admission, and if they knew about it [then]), then there’s a chance we might have not have paid our non-refundable balance due. “First and foremost, myrtle rust has hit the island hard — our first concern is with the island. We’re confused: if it’s as bad as they say it is, then don’t have people come out.” Myrtle rust has the potential to destroy entire Australian ecosystems, and spreads at rapid pace as its spores can be carried by wind, animals, insects, and humans alike, so it’s no small wonder the LHIB took immediate action to combat the threat. Fellow traveller Ian Freestone - who has visited the island numerous times before - had plans to celebrate his birthday there with 30 guests. After forking out a staggering $60,000 for the trip, they were informed that the trails would not be available to them, with closures to the PPP. Ian told 7News the whole thing was like “going to Luna Park but not [being] allowed on all the rides.” And for those who had been left on the island after the LHIB’s “effective immediately, the PPP is temporarily closed” announcement, the situation was not much better, with some claiming they - and their holiday funds - had been “left in limbo”. And while the island’s initial closure had been sudden - and crucial - it was only 10 days before the LHIB announced that the PPP would be partially reopening. “After extensive monitoring, no new sites of myrtle rust infestation have been located on the island. Importantly, as of yesterday (March 23), there were no active spores at known sites,” they said. But for some, this wasn’t enough, with many noting that they just would have appreciated “a bit of notice”, especially after spending so much to visit in the first place. Neil - and assumedly Denise - were of a similar opinion. Although they value the island’s flora, they pleaded for some compassion from the LHIB in the wake of their snap decision, and its consequences for themselves and the other impacted travellers. “We’re putting $20,000, between the two couples, into this. I’ve worked hard all my life for this, for money - this doesn’t grow on trees,” he said. “We’re nature lovers ... we get it. But communication has been lacking. To hear about this first through word-of-mouth, that’s not the way to do it. “Please, show your visitors some respect.” Images: Facebook

Travel Trouble

15 hiking tips for beginners

Always be prepared. It’s the motto you should live by if you’re heading off on a trek. To ensure this never happens to you, here are the essential tips that all beginner hikers need to remember. 1. It is always safest to hike with at least two other people. 2. Each hiker should carry a map and compass, and know how to use them. 3. You should tell someone where you are going and an estimated return time. 4. Never “wing it” – study a map beforehand so you know the terrain and routes. 5. Be prepared for sudden changes in weather by wearing layers and carrying wet weather gear. 6. Pace yourself when you first get on the trail. Choose a route that is suitable for the skill and fitness level of all group members – you don’t want to run out of steam half way through the trek. 7. Pack an emergency kit, including a basic first aid supplies, matches, emergency shelter, as well as a whistle or signal mirror in case you need to summon for help. 8. Never hike in brand new shoes. Wear comfortable socks and shoes that are suitable for the terrain. 9. If you are hiking when lightning strikes, never walk above the tree line. 10. Bring a light source, such as a flashlight or a headlight. 11. Don’t dispose of your trash in the wilderness. Bring it back with you. 12. Check the weather report before heading out and adjust accordingly. 13. Wear sunscreen and insect repellent. 14. Keep your backpack as light as possible. 15. Always bring some supplies of water and food, even if it’s meant to be a short trip.

Domestic Travel

The best places to hike in Switzerland

Switzerland is known for snow-capped mountains, glassy lakes, waterfalls, verdant valleys and moors. In between, it all is a dense network of hiking trails – ripe for exploration. More than 1500 Swiss volunteers have ensured that each of the trails is clearly marked with signposts and way-markers and the tracks are pedantically maintained. According to the Swiss Tourism board, about 50 per cent of Australian visitors to Switzerland will embark on at least one hike during their stay. Most people choose to DIY – because it’s so easy. So where should you start? The Via Alpina is the classic among the long-distance hikes in Switzerland. This trail crosses 14 of the most beautiful alpine passes. It meanders through the northern Alps of Switzerland (Vaduz – Montreux, via six cantons). On this trail, you will experience the picture-postcard scenery and fine Swiss hospitality. The Alpine Passes Trail is challenging and wild. It connects Chur with Lake Geneva via some of the most stunning passes in the Graubünden and Valais Alps. This trail is ideal for long-distance hikers. Expect views of 4000m peaks and classic mountain huts. The Jura Crest Trail is the oldest long-distance trail in Switzerland. Relatively unknown to non-Swiss hikers, this gentle, easy graded-trail is a local favourite. The Jura Crest hike connects Zurich and Geneva via the Jura mountains. You’ll walk through an untouched remote landscape with glorious views. Written by Alison Godfrey. Republished with permission of <a href="https://www.mydiscoveries.com.au/stories/switzerland-hikes/">MyDiscoveries</a>.

Travel Tips

Hiking paradise in the Swiss Engadin Valley

The passengers on the train from Chur to Bever thought New Zealanders Justine and Chris Tyerman were crazy… so did those lunching at the top of Muottas Muragl. The Kiwi couple fitted in well however among other outdoor fanatics and aficionados at the trendy, three-star, hyper-modern Bever Lodge, Switzerland’s first hotel built using an innovative modular wooden construction technique. Flabbergasted at the scenery My limited German came in incredibly handy on the day we set out by train from Chur to Bever Lodge in the high Engadine Valley. I recognised the word ‘spät’ which means late, something that seldom happens with Swiss trains. But the ‘drei Minuten zu spät‘ or ‘three minutes late‘ meant we could catch an earlier train to our destination and spend more time in this spectacular mountain region in the canton of Grisons (Graubünden). Joel at the Rhaetian Railway office in Chur had promised the trip, a UNESCO World-heritage-listed section of the world-famous Glacier Express, would be thrilling but I wasn’t prepared to be quite so flabbergasted by the landscape. We never actually sat down in our seats but stayed at the back of the carriage by the door where I could open the windows to take photos without disturbing the other passengers. The countryside flickered past my eyes like the frames of an old-fashioned movie, only in glorious technicolour. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Glacier-Express-Logo-Wagen-1024x683.jpg" alt="Glacier Express bar and observation cars" class="size-full wp-image-9396 no-display lazyloaded appear"/> Switzerland’s famous Glacier Express. Image credit: Justine Tyerman We spent the entire two-hour trip leaping from one side of the carriage to the other frantically trying to capture the vertiginously-high viaducts, deep gorges, swirling rivers, turquoise lakes, castle ruins, glorious autumn colours, bright blue skies, majestic mountain peaks and impressive hydro-electric dams. The highlight was the staggering 65m high, 136m long, six-span Landwasser Viaduct between Tiefencastel and Filisur. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Glacier-Express.jpg" alt="Glacier Express on the Landwater Viaduct" class="size-full wp-image-9392 no-display lazyloaded appear"/> Our Glacier Express on the Landwasser Viaduct. Image credit: Justine Tyerman There is, however, a serious downside to Swiss train travel. You can't relax, read, sleep, work or even go to the bathroom for fear of missing out another astonishing stretch of countryside. The passengers in the carriage next door thought we were crazy. Lodge conveniently located Bever Lodge is ideally located for those travelling by train or bus – it’s directly across the road from the railway station with a bus stop right out in front. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Bever-Lodge.jpg" alt="Bever Lodge" class="size-full wp-image-14241 no-display appear lazyloaded"/> Bever lodge. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Having spent the last few weeks in stately old hotels and resorts with centuries of history, it was refreshing and exciting to stay at this near-new establishment, Switzerland’s first hotel built using an innovative modular wooden construction technique. The components were all prefabricated and then assembled on site. The trendy, three-star hyper-modern lodge opened two years ago and is already a big hit with hikers, bikers and families who are seeking close-to-nature, active, outdoor holidays rather than a life of leisure and luxury. You get a feel for the healthy, sporty vibe of the place as soon as you arrive – there are mountain bikes parked outside, cyclists taking a break in the sunny courtyard or ‘Sunset Lounge’ and hikers with backpacks and walking sticks heading for the mountains. It’s our kind of place. We felt right at home. The location has the added advantage of being just 15 minutes from world-famous St Moritz if you do want a taste of glitz and glam - but without the eye-watering price-tag. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/St-Moritz-building.jpg" alt="St. Moritz" class="size-full wp-image-14232 no-display appear lazyloaded"/> St. Moritz is the ultimate in elegance with a host of boutique designer shops and grand old heritage buildings. Image credit: Justine Tyerman When we checked in, the very efficient and knowledgeable Andrea at reception gave us excellent instructions about the best hike to do that day and issued us with cards providing free use of all the buses and mountain transport. She also gave us a couple of walking sticks and two tubes of sunblock. Within 10 minutes we had deposited our bags in our lovely, spacious modern suite, changed into our hiking gear and were heading for the mountains with maps and a tourist information app in hand, courtesy of Andrea. With our magical free transport cards, we caught a bus outside the lodge to the Punt Muragl Talstation and enjoyed a thrilling trip up the mountain to Muottas Muragl in the historic 1907 funicular, the oldest in Grisons/Graubünden. Awe-struck… lost for words Sitting in the warm autumn sun at the restaurant having lunch and drinking chilled rosé at 2454 metres surrounded by magnificent mountains, lakes and glaciers brought tears of joy to my eyes and made my heart soar. I was awe-struck . . . lost for words. Our fellow lunchers were bemused at the tears. Perhaps it was altitude sickness. We could see four or five lakes sparkling like a row of sapphires strung on the necklace of the Inn River, and the stunning snow-covered Bernina Massif and the Morteratsch Glacier. Below us, hang gliders were taking off with whoops of excitement and hikers were beaming with joie de vivre on a perfect day in the Swiss alps. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Chris-Justine-Tyerman-Muottas-Muragl.jpg" alt="Muottas Muragl" class="size-full wp-image-14244 no-display appear lazyloaded"/> Justine and Chris toast a perfect day at the top of Muottas Muragl. Image credit: Justine Tyerman We didn’t think life could get much better - but then we set off on the 7km Panoramaweg, one of the most beautiful walking tracks on the planet. The path took us around the side of Schafberg mountain, through larch woodlands and across mountain streams beneath the towering peaks of Piz Muralg (3157m) and Piz Languard (3262m). Hikers sitting in the sun outside an alpine hut built of grey stone waved out to us. Their heavy packs suggested they had done a trek far more arduous than ours. Our path was mainly downhill which was a blessing because at this altitude, even the slightest climb had us puffing. We stopped midway for refreshments at the picturesque little Unterer Schafberg mainly for the sheer novelty of coming across a restaurant on a mountain hiking track, a rarity in our home country, New Zealand. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Unterer-Schafberg-restaurant.jpg" alt="Unterer Schafberg Restaurant" class="size-full wp-image-14233 no-display appear lazyloaded"/> The picturesque little Unterer Schafberg restaurant. Image credit: Justine Tyerman By the time we reached Alp Languard two and a half hours later, it was late afternoon and the air was starting to chill so we caught a chairlift down to Pontresina and a train back to Bever. So easy, so Swiss . . . and free. Bever Lodge buzzing When we arrived home, Bever Lodge was buzzing with rosy-cheeked guests, fresh from a day in the Great Outdoors. We dined on hearty pumpkin soup with chilli and coconut and tasty Bever Lodge Burgers with country fries and coleslaw - well looked after by charming chef de service Matt. After dinner, we sat by the fire in the cosy lounge before collapsing into our super-comfortable beds. In the morning, refreshed after a deep, restful sleep, we had a closer look at our surroundings. Our spacious, cleverly-designed room was sturdily constructed with pale larch wood-panelled walls and flooring giving it a light, clean, airy, modern look. The lovely tiled bathroom - and one of the best showers I’ve ever experienced - was concealed behind frosted glass decorated with a mountain motif. The floor-to-ceiling windows and doors opened up to allow fresh air to circulate and gave the effect of a balcony but without being outside the room. The view of the Engadine Valley ablaze with autumn colours was mesmerising. In the foreground, stood graceful dwellings with ornately-decorated plaster walls. The grass was clothed in silver from an early frost and the clear sky promised another perfect autumn hiking day. I could hear the tinkling of cow bells in the distance and the rumble of an early train coming down the valley. With plenty of storage space, a flat-screen television, free wifi and an app with all the activities of the area, we lacked for nothing. Practical, well thought-out, aesthetically-pleasing, welcoming and exceptionally comfortable, we felt relaxed and at home in our surroundings. A gym, sauna, massage studio, relaxation and meditation rooms and an all-important well-equipped cycle, ski and snowboard repair workshop were located on the ground floor. The breakfast buffet was varied and extensive with a chef on hand to cook omelettes, scrambled eggs, bacon and tomatoes. The array of fresh fruit, yoghurt, muesli, juices, bread and pastries was mouth-watering. Managing directors and hosts Marco and Johanna Zeller said the lodge was proving very popular with Swiss bikers, hikers and families looking for an active, holiday in one of the country’s most beautiful regions without having to pay a fortune. We were there in late autumn and the 41 rooms were nearly all full. St Moritz the ultimate in elegance Although we were blissfully happy in our own Engadine paradise, a visit to nearby St Moritz was a must – especially when we discovered the card Andrea issued to us on check-in also gave us free use of all the cablecars, buses, funiculars and mountain railways in the world’s ritziest mountain resort. The bus to St Moritz took us along the broad, sunny valley beside the pristine Inn River past the pretty villages of Samedan and Celerina and the historic Cresta toboggan track built in 1884. The town is superbly positioned on the shores of Lake St Moritz and completely encircled by mountains. It’s the ultimate in elegance with a host of boutique designer shops and grand old heritage buildings. Enough said. Volumes have been written about St Moritz. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/lake.jpg" alt="St. Moritz" class="size-full wp-image-14224 no-display appear lazyloaded"/> Superbly positioned on the shores of lake St. Moritz and completely encircled by mountains. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Reaching the summit of the highest peak, 3057m Piz Nair, was our aim for the day, a feat we achieved effortlessly by riding two funiculars and a giant cablecar. This mode of transport may be commonplace for Swiss folk but for New Zealanders, it was an enormous thrill, especially gliding above the near-vertical start of FIS Alpine World Ski Championships downhill run called ‘Free Fall’. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Piz-Nair-cablecar-lakes.jpg" alt="Piz Nair cablecar" class="size-full wp-image-14230 no-display lazyloaded appear"/> The Piz Nair cablecar with St. Moritz and the sapphire lakes Mind-boggling view The panorama from the summit was mind-boggling with a myriad of peaks clamouring for attention. Piz Nair, which towers above St Moritz, was shoulder-to-shoulder with dozens of other imposing peaks, all over 3000 metres. At this height we experienced mild altitude symptoms, a gentle rocking sensation like a small earthquake . . . even before our prosecco with lunch. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/view-from-Piz-Nair.jpg" alt="View from Piz Nair" class="size-full wp-image-14235 no-display lazyloaded appear"/> The view from the top of Piz Nair. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Fit-looking hikers were setting off in all directions while mountain bikers were launching themselves down precipitous, scary-looking tracks. We lingered at the summit, knowing this was our last day in the alps. I even played in a patch of early snow, the last we would see until the southern winter. After much discussion with locals and consulting of maps, we finally set off towards a lake far below us. The top of the track was rockier, narrower and steeper than it looked from above, and there were patches of snow and ice that kept us well and truly focused for a good 30-40 minutes. But the vista was breath-taking and we made it down safely to the funicular station at Corviglia. Looking back up the mountain, we realised we had crossed an enormous rockfall that covered the entire face of Piz Nair. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/lake-Piz-Nair.jpg" alt="Piz Nair" class="size-full wp-image-14225 no-display lazyloaded appear"/> A lake on the track down from Piz Nair. Image credit: Justine Tyerman Tranquil Bever We arrived back in Bever in time to explore the idyllic little village with its pretty houses and tall-spired church - so tranquil and peaceful after bustling, self-important St Moritz. Home to 700 people, many of the sturdy four to five-storey dwellings are decorated with exquisite Italian sgraffito art. <img width="500" height="NaN" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Bever-building.jpg" alt="Bever" class="size-full wp-image-14239 no-display lazyloaded appear"/> The tranquil little village of Bevers with its pretty houses and tall-spired church The ancient technique involves applying layers of coloured plaster to the walls then scratching patterns in it with iron tools. The designs around the windows and huge arched doorways, built in the old days to accommodate hay-wagons, depicted ibex, deer, elephants, horses and bears. It's a tradition in the Swiss Engadine Valley, borrowed from nearby Italy. The houses were built small windows to limit heat loss and deep sills that funnel the light and sunshine into the rooms. We heard wonderful stories about the Fairytale Path that leads through the middle of the Val Bever to Spinas but the daylight faded before we could explore it. Created by local Engadine authors and sculptors, there are six stations depicting scenes from fairytales. That evening, we lounged in the sauna before feasting on delicious Engadine capuns, pulled pork and Thai curry. Special deals – year round Bever Lodge is the perfect base for summer and winter sports, and Marco and Johanna Zeller, who know every corner of the Engadine, are delighted to share their secret spots with guests. In the winter there’s limitless scope for alpine skiing and snowboarding, snow-shoeing, winter hiking, cross-country skiing and tobogganing, and in the summer there’s a vast network of hiking and biking trails right on the doorstep. The lodge also prides itself on an-house bike coach with personal touring suggestions and insider tips, not to mention a lockable, video-monitored bike room, workshop and spares. And they throw in a free laundry service for biking and hiking clothes. Marathon runners and athletes train here too, taking advantage of the Engadine Valley's 1700m altitude and dry alpine climate with 322 days of sunshine every year. Swiss athletes trained here nearly 50 years ago for the Mexico City Olympics in 1968. The lodge has some great deals for cost-conscious holiday-makers. In winter, if you stay at Bever Lodge longer than one night you can buy the Hotel Ski Pass for 38 Swiss Francs ($56NZ) a day – for instance, if you stay five days, you can book the pass for five days. That’s roughly half the price of the average lift pass in New Zealand . . . and for this you can access 350km of perfectly-groomed pistes, three snow parks, 56 mountain lifts and 34 mountain restaurants. There’s also a free ski bus on the doorstep and a train station across the road. And in spring, summer and autumn, a similar deal applies. Guests who stay at the lodge for two nights or more get free use of public transport, funiculars and cablecars. From 190 Swiss Francs for a double room, ($275 NZ) Bever Lodge is comparable if not cheaper than hotel accommodation on the fringes of New Zealand’s top holiday resorts. Excellent value for money. Who says Switzerland is expensive! * Justine and Chris Tyerman stayed at Bever Lodge in Bever, Switzerland: <a href="http://www.beverlodge.ch/" target="_blank">www.beverlodge.ch</a> * Switzerland Tourism: <a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/" target="_blank">www.MySwitzerland.com</a> * Swiss Travel Pass: <a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/rail" target="_blank">www.MySwitzerland.com/rail</a> * Rail Europe: <a href="http://www.raileurope.com.au/" target="_blank">www.raileurope.com.au</a> / <a href="http://www.raileurope.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.raileurope.co.nz</a> * Swiss International Air Lines: <a href="http://www.swiss.com/ch/en" target="_blank">www.swiss.com/ch/en</a> Republished with the permission of <a href="http://travelmemo.com/" target="_blank">Travelmemo.com</a>

International Travel

Hiking the magnificent Hollyford Track in New Zealand

Justine Tyerman, 61, is a New Zealand journalist, travel writer and sub-editor. Married for 36 years, she lives in rural surroundings near Gisborne on the East Coast of New Zealand with her husband Chris. True-blue trampers are not accustomed to being plied with fine cuisine and wine at the end of a day of hiking in the great outdoors. After an invigorating cold wash and a change of socks, we usually hover over a tiny gas burner in a back country hut, squabbling over which of the three dehydrated packets of food to open for 'dinner', jealously guarding the thimble of red wine we allow ourselves as a treat at the end of the day. Food, clothes, sleeping bags and cooking utensils are all lugged uphill on our backs in ridiculously-heavy packs. So my eyes popped out of my head at the end of our first day on the Hollyford Track when our hosts at Pyke Lodge met us at the door with beaming smiles, refreshing drinks and divine carrot cake, and sent us on our way to steaming hot showers and private bedrooms with real beds, crisp sheets, soft pillows, fluffy towels, heated towel rails... and a mirror. After a hair wash, a full change of clothes to lodge attire and a dab of lipstick, I joined the other eight in our party in the luxurious lounge by an open fire. A massive platter of elegant canapés appeared from the open kitchen and we were offered a choice of six top New Zealand wines including my all-time favourite, Gibbston Valley Pinot Gris. Trying to look nonchalant in front of our American track-mates for whom all this was obviously de rigueur, I took my time pretending to appraise the wines before casually requesting a glass. I found myself a bit fidgety watching hosts Dave and Samantha doing all the work in the kitchen, but a second glass of pinot gris seemed to ease my conscience. I slipped into the pampered guest role with alarming ease, chatting to our ruggedly handsome guide Graeme Scott and fellow trampers about our fabulous first day on the track. After quite a few drinks by the fire, our rosy-cheeked group of Americans, Australians and two Kiwis bonded well, comparing photos of the 20km hike and playing one-upmanship with high-tech toys like the Fitbit fitness super watch our new friend from the USA was demonstrating to my husband. The aromas emanating from the open kitchen were tantalising and dinner more than lived up to olfactory expectations - the succulent venison followed by lemon tart with passionfruit topping was a five-star dining experience in the middle of the wilderness. The following night at Martins Bay Lodge we were treated to more delectable hors d'oeuvres and New Zealand wines, delicious manuka hot smoked salmon with citrus glaze and the world's best brownie prepared by hosts Emily and Heath. Accustomed to sharing a bunkroom with 40 unwashed others, it was utter bliss to retire to a private bedroom: comfy bed, warm duvet... and hot water bottles. Enough said about gourmet food and the luxurious lodges. We seasoned trampers had not travelled all the way from Gisborne for mere pampering and pinot gris, but a hearty outdoors experience in the Fiordland wilderness. <img width="499" height="332" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/27894/a-lower-hollyford-valley-lake-mckerrow-left-and-lake-alabaster-right-_499x332.jpg" alt="A. Lower Hollyford Valley , Lake Mc Kerrow (left ) And Lake Alabaster (right) (3)" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Lower Hollyford Valley, Lake McKerrow (left) and Lake Alabaster (right). Credit: Ngai Tahu Tourism. We have hiked many a track but the Hollyford guided walk stands out because of the spectacular variety of the landscape, "a journey from the mountains to the sea", and the fascinating historical, geological, botanical and everything-else-ological context provided by a team of extraordinarily knowledgeable guides. The easy-paced 43km low-altitude, largely flat track begins beyond Gunn's Camp 100km from Te Anau, and meanders along a glacier-hewn valley through vivid green ancient beech and fern forests beside the Hollyford River. On day one, swing bridges take hikers over side-streams flowing from the exquisite Hidden Falls and Little Homer Falls. After a picnic lunch on a sunny beach beside the Hollyford, which was so blue it looked as though artificial colouring had been dumped in it somewhere upstream, we climbed to the track's highest point at Little Homer Saddle, all of 168m. No oxygen needed to summit that one. Fiordland's highest mountain, the lofty snow-capped Mt Tutoko (2746m), named after an important Maori chief in the area, was visible from the top of the saddle, peaking through the clouds. <img width="497" height="315" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/27895/a-pyke-river-swingbridge-fiordlands-longest-swingbridge_497x315.jpg" alt="A. Pyke River Swingbridge - Fiordland 's Longest Swingbridge" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Pyke River swingbridge - Fiordland's longest swingbridge. Credit: Ngai Tahu Tourism. Along the way, Graeme introduced us to the strange, the ingenious, the risqué and the comical - a carnivorous snail, frogs that have no tadpole stage and don't like water, cross-dressing ferns (males with long skirts) and the world's largest fuchsia, aka the kotukutuku or 'silent dog tree' because "it keeps losing its bark". The kaka parrot scratches the trunk of the kotukutuku which oozes sap and attracts insects - the clever kaka then returns to feast on both. One of the most magnificent sights in the forest was the 'tree of life', a giant 1000-year-old rimu wrapped in ancient rata vines and an 'overcoat' of more than 140 species of epiphyte. The chortling bird-song in the forest was sublime but nothing compared to the deafening sound of several hundred years ago. Graeme said Captain Cook could hear the dawn chorus more than 6km out to sea. <img width="500" height="334" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/27899/a-giant-beech-trees-on-the-hollyford-track_500x334.jpg" alt="A. Giant Beech Trees On The Hollyford Track (2)" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Giant beech trees on the Hollyford Track. Credit: Ngai Tahu Tourism. After dinner that evening, we followed our gumbooted guide to the river where he waded in to feed a thrashing mass of huge, hungry, fanged eels. In contrast to the somewhat horrific sight of the eels consuming our leftover venison, we also visited a silent glow-worm colony and saw the delicate sticky silk tendrils they spin to catch insects. Our second day began with an easy walk to an ethereal, misty Lake Alabaster. Maori, who inhabited the area from 1650 to 1800, built their waka here. They felled logs into the lake, cut off the branches and spun them in the water for several weeks until they were water-logged and achieved a natural balance. The logs were then taken across Lake McKerrow to a village where they were hollowed out and fitted with outriggers and sails. The vessels were fast. Captain Cook once recorded that a waka paddled by four Maori men passed his cutter at a great rate of knots. Jesse loaded us aboard his grunty twin-engine Hamilton jetboat and we hooned off down the rapids of the Hollyford River and along Lake McKerrow on a day so calm the mirror surface of the turquoise-ink water made it hard to differentiate between the mountains and the reflections. The 60-minute high-adrenalin ride circumvented the infamous 20km Demon Trail along the side of the lake which takes even the fittest of trampers at least nine hours. I felt a sense of shame at taking such a shortcut but it vanished remarkably fast when we crossed the Pyke River on Fiordland's longest and swingiest swing bridge to stumble a few metres down that gnarly, uppy-downy track. On Lake McKerrow, we encountered the world's longest fault-line, the Alpine fault, at the point where the Indo-Australian plate subducts under the Pacific Plate. In 1777, there was a massive earthquake which moved landmarks so drastically Captain Cook did not recognise the coastline he had mapped when he returned in 1790. <img width="500" height="375" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/27902/b-img_0529-our-hollyford-track-group_500x375.jpg" alt="B IMG_0529. Our Hollyford Track Group (1)" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Our Hollyford Track group. Credit: Justine Tyerman. We stopped at historic Jamestown on the shores of Lake McKerrow. Standing by a small plaque at the centre of where the ill-planned settlement once stood, Graeme explained Jamestown, founded in 1870, was supposed to become the capital of the South Island. He told us heartbreaking stories of years of deprivation as promised coastal supply ships sank or bypassed Jamestown due to foul weather and the treacherous Hollyford bar. My heart ached for the parents who lost five of their seven children in this most remote of outposts and the mother who gave birth to her fifth child alone at night in a ferocious Fiordland storm with flood waters lapping at her bed, while her husband rowed and ran for help. The most famous character in the Hollyford is the legendary Davey Gunn, 'the Trampers' Friend', a larger-than-life bushman, cattle farmer and unlikely lothario who began guiding guests, mainly women it seems, through the valley on horseback as part of his cattle musters in the 1930s. Davey became a hero on December 30, 1936 when a light plane crashed into the sea at Big Bay, injuring the pilot and passengers, one of whom died soon afterwards. He ran and rowed for 20 hours to fetch help, a 90km journey that would normally take four days, a deed which earned him the Coronation Medal. Davey died tragically on Christmas Day, 1955 while crossing the Hollyford River on horseback with a 12-year-old boy behind him. The horse stumbled and both riders drowned. Graeme also had an encyclopaedic knowledge of the traditional medicinal uses of hundreds of plants along the track. Had we become stranded, I was confident our own Davey Gunn would have kept us fed and sheltered, and cured any ailment from toothache to impotence. Our gallant American taster-tester track-mate was game to sample many of nature's remedies including the leaves of the horopito or pepper plant which he confirmed were "******* hot". It's a versatile plant, effective against both diarrhoea and constipation. Early Europeans also used it for toothache and skin diseases. He decided against trying out the Viagra-like properties of the lancewood with its leaves like sword blades. "A man knows his limits," he said. Had anyone developed a nasty case of scurvy while on the track, Graeme would have brewed up a 'beer' using rimu bark and manuka leaves, a remedy Captain Cook found highly effective back in the 1770s. The salt and the roar of the mighty Tasman Sea were in the air long before we emerged from the forest at Martins Bay.The remote, wild West Coast beach was an awe-inspiring sight with the late afternoon sun making iridescent rainbows in the spray from the massive breakers. A few nimble rock-hoppers ventured out to see the super-cute, brown-eyed seal pups cavorting in pools, sheltered from the waves by truck-sized boulders at Long Reef. <img width="498" height="330" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/27903/a-martins-bay-sandspit_498x330.jpg" alt="A. Martins Bay Sandspit" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Martins Bay Sandspit. Credit: Ngai Tahu Tourism. Our last morning was spent exploring Martins Bay Spit. In ancient times, the kilometre-high glacier that carved the Hollyford Valley stretched 10km out to sea from where we stood on the other-worldly, wind-swept sand-dunes. We walked the length of the 8km granite-sand beach, deep in thoughts of the last three days in this pristine place. At the end of the trip, we could have stayed true to our tramping ethos and retraced our steps back up the valley but we took the easy way out, a thrilling helicopter flight from Martins Bay Lodge along the rugged West Coast and up the whole length of mesmerising Milford Sound. I'll never forget the heart-pounding, nerve-tingling, edge-of-my-seat exhilaration of that flight past Mitre Peak and the stunning Stirling and Bowen Falls. An experience like the Hollyford alters your perspective on life. I felt enriched on a physical, spiritual and intellectual level… not to mention my tummy. It's a seamless, professional operation but there is nothing slick about it - just warm, talented human beings doing what they know and love. And underlying it is the concept of hospitality (manaakitanga) which filters down from the owners of the walk, Ngai Tahu Tourism who bought the business in 2003. Their ancestors were guides for many of the first European explorers and their connection to the land goes back over 400 years to settlements at Martins Bay and the pounamu trail that ran through the valley so they are fitting caretakers of this precious Unesco World Heritage site. If you go: The <a href="http://www.hollyfordtrack.com/" target="_blank">Hollyford Track</a> is a three-day/two-night all-inclusive guided wilderness experience from the mountains to the sea, along the Hollyford Valley by foot, jet boat and finally helicopter to Milford Sound. The track is 56km long, of which hikers walk 43km. The low-altitude, largely flat track begins 100km from Te Anau in beech and fern forest, descends to coastal podocarp forests and ends at the sand dunes of Martins Bay at the mouth of the valley. Expert guides, first-rate cuisine, comfortable lodges with private bedrooms, transport from Queenstown or Te Anau, day packs and rain jackets are included in the price. Hikers carry a light pack with clothing and lunch on their first day and thereafter an even lighter day pack to hold wet weather gear and water. A maximum number of 16 guests provides for a highly personal experience. *Justine Tyerman was a guest of Hollyford Track. Related links: <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/domestic-travel/2016/09/best-place-to-fly-fish-in-new-zealand/">The best place to fly-fish in New Zealand</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/domestic-travel/2016/08/guide-to-queenstown-paradise-trail-in-new-zealand/">Cycling Queenstown's stunning Paradise Trail</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/domestic-travel/2016/07/guide-to-queenstown-new-zealand/">Travel guide: Queenstown</a>

Domestic Travel

Pug and cat hike the Spanish Camino together

Luigi and Bandito love the great outdoors. As you can see in the gallery above, these best friends regularly embark on great adventures and have been to places some of us can only dream about. The cat and dog duo have even been to Camino de Santiago, the 800km pilgrimage route in Spain. Their adventures began when owners Sebastian and Finn bought a doggy stroller so the fluffy friends could accompany them on their travels. "We took a few weeks to get them used to it and set up the tent in our old front room - they genuinely loved it," Sebastian, from England, told the Mail Online. The family of four has travelled all around Spain and undertook the massive Camino trail last year. One-year-old Luigi, the cat, was the laziest of them all and often used the stroller as a safe haven, enjoying the scenery from his comfortably seat. "We knew we would turn back if it became stressful or unfair on them, they are the main priority all the way - as well as walking about 20km a day of course," Sebastian said. The intrepid pug and cat continue to see the world and even have more than 30,000 followers on Instagram. Pet owners considering taking their furry friends on holiday shouldn't overestimate their pet's abilities, the couple advise. "We have had to be vigilant at all times. Inner cities are not ideal places, but fortunately we are in the countryside the vast majority [of time]. Because of this we can really enjoy our time together like climbing trees with the cat and running around with the pug." Image credit: Facebook / Pug and Cat First appeared on <a href="http://Stuff.co.nz" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz</a>. No matter where you’re travelling to, making sure you know how to access your cash while away – and in the most affordable way – is very important. Easy to use and with countless benefits, the Over60 Cash Passport allows you to securely access your cash in the same way you use an ATM or credit card. <a href="https://oversixty.cashpassport.com.au" target="_blank">To apply for a card today, click here.</a> Related links: <a href="/lifestyle/family-pets/2016/08/the-truth-about-pets-and-chocolate/">The truth about pets and chocolate</a> <a href="/news/news/2016/08/photos-of-beaming-pups/">14 photos of beaming pups to brighten your day</a> <a href="/lifestyle/family-pets/2016/08/why-pets-give-you-the-side-eye/">Why pets give you the side eye</a>

International Travel

8 more great Aussie hiking trails

When it comes to great hiking trails Australia is spoilt for choice. We showed you <a href="/travel/domestic-travel/2016/02/best-hiking-trails-in-australia/" target="_blank">some of our favourite hiking trails</a> last month. Here are eight more hiking trails to try in our own backyard for hikers of all levels. To see the trails, scroll through the gallery above. Scenic Rim Trail, Queensland Cradle Mountain Huts Walk, Tasmania The Arkaba Walk, South Australia The Maria Island Walk, Tasmania Six Foot Track, New South Wales Kosciuszko Walk, New South Wales Dove Lake Circuit, Cradle Mountain National Park Manly to the Spit Bridge Related links: <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/international/2016/02/a-look-inside-first-class-cabins/">Inside 8 first class cabins that will amaze you</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/international/2016/02/most-photographed-locations-in-london/">London’s 8 most photographed locations</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/international/2016/02/holiday-ideas-for-animal-lovers/">8 holiday ideas every animal lover needs to experience</a>

Travel Tips

10 great hiking trails in Australia

When it comes to great hiking trails Australia is spoilt for choice. Here are 10 great hiking trails to try when you're next across the ditch. Check them out in the gallery above. Related links: <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/international/2016/01/10-most-amazing-man-made-structures/">10 most amazing man-made structures</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/international/2016/02/most-beautiful-churches-in-the-world/">10 beautiful churches you must see in person</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/international/2016/01/strange-street-foods-from-around-the-world/">9 strange street foods from around the world</a>

International Travel

10 spectacular hikes to do around the world

Whether you’re an experienced hiker looking for a challenge or a curious novice just starting out, these are the trails that are worth acquiring a new set of blisters. Scroll though the gallery above to see the world’s 10 best hiking trails. 10. Inca Trail, Peru One of the most popular hikes in the world (to the point where it’s now becoming overrun by tourists), the Inca Trail covers 40kms of gruelling inclines and declines that put every hiker to the test. But that view of Machu Picchu is worth every blister. 9. Appalachian Trail, USA Have a spare five to seven months? You’re going to need it if you want to take on the Appalachian Trail! One of the longest continuously market footpaths in the world, the Appalachian Trail winds through 14 states and requires careful planning at each step. 8. Kilimanjaro Trail, Tanzania There are a range of different routes to tackle Africa’s highest peak, which is fast gaining in popularity with tourists. Treks generally take around a week to complete and offer a spectacular view of Africa from above the clouds when completed. 7. The Snowman Trek, Bhutan This highly-challenging, high altitude trek can only be completed as part of a guided tours, passing beneath six mountains and crossing nine passes. Unpredictable weather patterns in the high Himalaya make this one of the hardest trails on earth. 6. The Torres del Paine “W” Circuit, Chile This popular route takes you through the spectacular Torres del Paine National Park on a track that resembles the letter “W”. On this beautiful six day hike you will bear witness to volcanic peaks, glaciers and lakes, with plenty of photo opportunities. 5. Mountains of the Moon, Uganda “Enchanting” is the word you’d use to describe the scenery on the Mountains of the Moon trek, yet at the same time it barely seems to do it justice. At its highest range you will be 16,000 feet above Africa, with elephants and glaciers in the same place. 4. Tour du Mont Blanc, France, Italy and Switzerland One of Europe’s premier hikes, Tour du Mont Blanc gives you the opportunity to hike through three different countries, trekking through mountain passes, alpine meadows and glacial valleys at the base of one of the highest mountain in Western Europe. 3. Routeburn Track, New Zealand While it’s not as busy as the Milford Track, the Routeburn Track offers views that are equally as spectacular without having to deal with the foot traffic. Located on the South Island in Fiordland National Park, it takes around four days to finish. 2. Trek to Petra, Jordan While it may not be as easily accessible as some of the other options on the list, the Trek to Petra is considered one of the best hikes in the Middle East and takes you through amazing gorges, ridges and rocky terrain, ending in fascinating temples and tombs. 1. Bay of Fires Hike, Tasmania And of course we couldn’t leave Australia off the list. The Bay of Fires hike in Tassie takes you through endless beaches of white sand, boulders covered in red lichen and past turquoise waters. The scenery alone makes the four day hikes well worth it. Related links: <a href="/travel/international-travel/2016/01/odd-and-amazing-toilets-from-around-the-world/">12 odd (but amazing) toilets from around the world</a> <a href="/travel/international-travel/2016/01/how-i-drove-a-motorhome-around-the-world/">When I retired I drove a motorhome around the world</a> <a href="/travel/international-travel/2015/12/largest-flower-garden-in-the-world/">14 images from the world’s largest flower garden</a>

International Travel

Choosing the right shoes to go hiking in

If you’ve recently taken up hiking you’ve probably realised you’re fast going to ruin your running shoes. The next step, then, is to buy a pair of hiking boots or shoes. But where to begin? Shoes or boots? When considering the type of footwear best for your hikes, your hiking habits ought to be considered. If you tend to opt for multiple-day hikes that take you on the (muddy, unstable) path less travelled, or if you have weak ankles, a sturdy, supportive boot might be better for you. But if you tend to participate in day-long hikes on established, level paths, a lighter hiking shoe might be ideal. Leather or synthetic? When purchasing a boot or shoe, you have three main options, leather, synthetic materials, or a combination of the two. Leather, is very durable and breathable. While more expensive, leather generally lasts longer than synthetics if required care is taken. Synthetics are lighter, more breathable and cheaper, but often times won’t last nearly as long as its leather counterpart.Other options combine the two in an attempt to utilise the best of both materials. Do I need waterproof linings? If you frequently find yourself on wet terrain, you might want to consider a waterproof lining. These are more effective in boots than in shoes, as shoes are too low cut. As synthetic material is more breathable and the lining can create stuffiness, waterproof linings are also best utilised within a synthetic or synthetic combo model. What about the fit? Buying hiking boots is much the same as any other shoe. Wear what you would normally wear: if you require insoles, bring them. If you usually wear thick socks when you hike, don’t wear thin ones. As a rule of thumb (no pun intended) you should be able to fit a finger behind your heel to allow for a comfortable fit. Keep in mind, you will likely have to break your new footwear in. We recommend going on shorter hikes until your footwear is properly worn in. Related links: <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/news/news/2015/12/abandoned-puppy-rescued-on-christmas-eve/">Abandoned puppy rescued on Christmas Eve doesn’t look like this anymore</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/news/news/2015/12/spot-the-cat-hidden-in-this-picture/">Can you spot the cat hidden in this picture?</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/news/news/2015/12/why-coffee-can-be-good-for-you/">Why giving up coffee could do you more harm than good</a>

Domestic Travel

Meet the grandma who hiked a 3,500km trail in tennis shoes

We’ve heard of people going for long walks, but this is something else altogether! American grandmother Emma Rowena Gatewood was 67 when she became the first woman to successfully hike the Appalachian Trail solo and in one season. This 3,500 kilometre trail, extending from Mount Oglethorpe in Georgia to Mount Katahdin in Maine, is no mean feat! <img width="348" height="444" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/11384/grandma-hike-body-three.jpg" alt="Grandma Hike Body Three" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Emma was a farmer’s wife from Ohio, mother to 11 children and grandmother to 24. She became enamoured with the hike when she read about it in a copy of National Geographic. In 1955, barely prepared, she decided to embark on her stroll with a blanket, raincoat and plastic shower curtain and wearing tennis shoes, a testament to her fortitude. <img width="497" height="345" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/11385/grandma-hike-body-five_497x345.jpg" alt="Grandma Hike Body Five" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Hikers spotted her on the trail, she picked up the nickname “Grandma Gatewood” and when Sports Illustrated ran a story on her hiking she became something of a local celebrity. By age 75, Emma had hiked the Appalachian Trail three times, and also walked the 3,200 kilometres Oregon Trail. Her advice to hikers was, “Make a rain cape, and an over the shoulder sling bag, and buy a sturdy pair of Keds tennis shoes. Stop at local groceries and pick up Vienna sausages… most everything else to eat you can find beside the trail”. <img width="497" height="290" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/11386/grandma-hike-body-four_497x290.jpg" alt="Grandma Hike Body Four" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/>

International Travel

Kiwis avoid Apple's App Store price hike

Australian's will pay about 15 per cent more for apps in Apple's App Store, though Kiwis have managed to avoid the increase. The price rise is being attributed to the falling Aussie dollar, but New Zealand's prices are staying the same despite the kiwi also losing value recently. According to 9 to 5 Mac, Apple is raising the price of apps, in-app purchases and app subscriptions in the Australian App Store by 15 per cent within the next day or so. An app costing AU$1.29, for instance, will go up 20 cents to AU$1.49. This means Kiwis will be getting a much better deal when buying apps than Australians. However, we already seem to get cheaper prices. For example, the game Goat Simulator costs us $6.49 while they pay AU$7.99. The same goes for Monument Valley - $4.99 versus AU$5.99. Our prices went down in April 2014, due to the strengthening kiwi, while Australian prices went up. Apple sent a notice to developers detailing the price hikes, which also affect Indonesia and Sweden. While app fees look to be going up for the time being, Apple has given developers two new low-tier price points to play with as well. They are called "Alternate Tier A" and "Alternate Tier B" and will only be added to the Australian store. Apple also said it won't cancel auto-renewing subscriptions as a result of the price increase. Instead, it will notify subscribers via email of the changes. That's a departure from its previous practice of automatically cancelling subscriptions due to a price change, according to 9 to 5 Mac. First appeared on <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz</a> Related links: <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/entertainment/technology/2015/10/block-app-invites-on-facebook/">How to block app invites on Facebook</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/entertainment/technology/2015/10/iphone-photo-tips/">8 iPhone photo tips you’ll want to know about</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/health/mind/2015/08/tech-tools-worth-mastering/">Tech tools worth mastering</a>

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Couple’s hiking trip thrown into jeopardy days before take off

15 hiking tips for beginners

The best places to hike in Switzerland

Hiking paradise in the Swiss Engadin Valley

Hiking the magnificent Hollyford Track in New Zealand

Pug and cat hike the Spanish Camino together

8 more great Aussie hiking trails

10 great hiking trails in Australia

10 spectacular hikes to do around the world

Choosing the right shoes to go hiking in

Meet the grandma who hiked a 3,500km trail in tennis shoes

Kiwis avoid Apple's App Store price hike