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Warming oceans may force New Zealand’s sperm and blue whales to shift to cooler southern waters

The world’s oceans are absorbing more than <a href="https://www.un.org/en/climatechange/science/climate-issues/ocean-impacts" target="_blank" rel="noopener">90% of the excess heat and energy</a> generated by rising greenhouse gas emissions. But, as the oceans keep warming, rising sea temperatures generate unprecedented cascading effects that include the melting of polar ice, rising seas, marine heatwaves and ocean acidification. This in turn has profound impacts on marine biodiversity and the lives and livelihoods of coastal communities, especially in island nations such as New Zealand. In our latest <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1470160X22007075?via%3Dihub" target="_blank" rel="noopener">research</a>, we focused on great whales – sperm and blue whales in particular. They are crucial for maintaining healthy marine ecosystems, but have limited options to respond to climate change: either adapt, die, or move to stay within optimal habitats. We used mathematical models to predict how they are likely to respond to warming seas by the end of the century. Our results show a clear southward shift for both species, mostly driven by rising temperatures at the sea surface. <h2>Computing the fate of whales</h2> Data on the local abundance of both whales species are <a href="https://www.int-res.com/abstracts/meps/v690/p201-217/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">deficient</a>, but modelling provides a powerful tool to predict how their range is likely to shift. We used a <a href="http://macroecointern.dk/pdf-reprints/AraujoNew2007.pdf" target="_blank" rel="noopener">combination of mathematical models</a> (known as correlative species distribution models) to predict the future range shifts of these whale species as a response to three future climate change scenarios of differing severity, as outlined by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (<a href="https://www.ipcc.ch/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">IPCC</a>). We applied these models, using the whales’ present distributions, to build a set of environmental “rules” that dictate where each species can live. Using climate-dependent data such as sea-surface temperature and chlorophyll A (a measure of phytoplankton growth), as well as static data such as water depth and distance to shore, we applied these rules to forecast future habitat suitability. We chose a scenario of “<a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-020-00177-3" target="_blank" rel="noopener">modest</a>” response to cutting greenhouse gas emissions (the IPCC’s mitigation strategy RCP4.5), which is the most likely given the current policies, and a worst-case scenario (no policy to cut emissions, RCP8.5), assuming the reality will likely be somewhere between the two. Our projections suggest current habitats in the ocean around the North Island may become unsuitable if sea-surface temperatures continue to rise. These range shifts become even stronger with increasing severity of climate change. For sperm whales, which are currently abundant off Kaikōura where they support eco-tourism businesses, the predicted distribution changes are even more evident than for blue whales, depending on the climate change scenario. While our results do not predict an overall reduction in suitable habitat that would lead to local extinctions, the latitudinal range shifts are nevertheless bound to have important ecological consequences for New Zealand’s marine ecosystems and the people who depend on them. <h2>How whales maintain ecosystems</h2> Great whales are marine ecosystem engineers. They modify their habitats (or create new ones), to suit their needs. In fact, these activities create conditions that other species rely on to survive. They engineer their environment on several fronts. By feeding in one place and releasing their faeces in another, whales convey minerals and other nutrients such as nitrogen and iron from the deep water to the surface, as well as across regions. This process, known as a “<a href="https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0013255" target="_blank" rel="noopener">whale pump</a>”, makes these nutrients available for phytoplankton and other organisms to grow. This is very important because phytoplankton contributes about <a href="https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/plankton-revealed" target="_blank" rel="noopener">half of all oxygen to the atmosphere</a> and also captures <a href="https://www.imf.org/Publications/fandd/issues/2019/12/natures-solution-to-climate-change-chami" target="_blank" rel="noopener">about 40% of all released carbon dioxide</a>. By helping the growth of phytoplankton, whales indirectly contribute to the <a href="https://theconversation.com/tiny-plankton-drive-processes-in-the-ocean-that-capture-twice-as-much-carbon-as-scientists-thought-136599" target="_blank" rel="noopener">natural ocean carbon sink</a>. On top of this, each great whale accumulates about <a href="https://www.arcticwwf.org/the-circle/stories/protecting-the-earth-by-protecting-whales/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">33 tonnes of carbon dioxide in their body</a>, which they take to the ocean floor when they die and their carcass sinks. <figure></figure> Ultimately, the impact of warming oceans on whale distribution is an additional stress factor on ecosystems already under pressure from wider threats, including acidification, pollution and over-exploitation. <h2>A way forward to help whales</h2> Sperm whales are the largest toothed whales (odontocetes) and deep-diving apex predators. They primarily feed on squid and fish that live near the bottom of the sea. Blue whales are baleen whales (mysticetes) and filter small organisms from the water. They feed at the surface on zooplankton, particularly dense krill schools along coastlines where cold water from the deep ocean rises toward the surface (so-called <a href="https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/upwelling.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">upwelling areas</a>). These differences in feeding habits lead to divergent responses to ocean warming. Blue whales show a more distinct southerly shift than sperm whales, particularly in the worst-case scenario, likely because they feed at the surface where ocean warming will be more exacerbated than in the deep sea. Both species have important foraging grounds off New Zealand which may be compromised in the future. Sperm whales are currently occurring regularly off Kaikōura, while blue whales forage in the South Taranaki Bight. Despite these ecological differences, our results show that some future suitable areas around the South Island and offshore islands are common to both species. These regions could be considered sanctuaries for both species to retreat to or expand their habitat in a warming world. This should warrant <a href="https://environment.govt.nz/assets/Publications/Files/Environmental-Report-Card-Marine-Areas-with-Legal-protection_0.pdf" target="_blank" rel="noopener">increased protection of these areas</a>. This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/warming-oceans-may-force-new-zealands-sperm-and-blue-whales-to-shift-to-cooler-southern-waters-188522" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. Image: Shutterstock

Travel Trouble

Explore the southern spice trail of India

The southern spice trail of India offers aromatic plants and scents – temples, history, fragrant curries, plenty of cows and the odd elephant. Bev Malzard explores. ‘India is a land of contrasts.’ These are the words I read when I first heard about India in primary school. I missed the hippie trail through India in the late 70s and somehow it missed my ‘trip list’ for the next 30 years. It’s a long time since the 70s and I am no longer young and fearless – I don’t have the time to meander on a spiritual journey, nor can I laze around a beach for weeks. Playing it safe, but not too safe, I opted for a guided tour through the southern part of India, with companions from the UK – all aged from late 50s to 70s. These were tough, hardened travellers, who had been everywhere and adapted to India as soon as the first cow strolled in front of our coach and nearly sent us off the road. My kind of people. We were on the Cosmos Tours Kerala & Spice Route trip. This extraordinary trip has left me with a montage of memories, all compartmentalised as it wasn’t a seamless 15 days; there were stops, starts and surprises along the way. For two days we drove through small towns and villages that were so crowded that I wondered how the human spirit could breathe, then open, brilliant green paddy fields appeared with workers dotted on the shivery landscape; a multi-storied steel and glass building branded with the IT neon success story flashed itself on the side of a highway, and beside it stood broken houses, businesses of broken dreams and rubbish piled high against the near and present future of India. Following are my memory chip postcards of India, and if my brain doesn’t go into the daily details of life here – all I see is colour. Temples, temples, temples The southern spice trail in India offers more than arom atic plants and scents – temples, history, fragrant curries, cows and more cows plus the odd elephant village. It is the site of the first British settlement in 1639. There are buildings here that smack of the British Raj; Portuguese churches; and more Hindu temples than you can poke an incense stick at. Temples and precious sites visited, with the amazing ancient carvings and script include: Mahabalipuram, UNESCO World Heritage site showcasing some of India’s finest rock art and architecture. See the Five Rathas, Sarjuna’s Penance and Shore temple; Kanchipuram, one of the 11 sacred sites of India; the Dakshinachitra heritage centre; the 16th century Church of Our Lady of Expectations; the basilica of San Thome and the gardens of the Theosophical Society, a vast campus of rambling pathways and countless trees. After a long day’s drive on highways to hell with roadside rubbish gobbling up all strips of nature and seeing crumbling half-finished buildings, we arrived in the immaculate seaside town of Pondicherry. Two thousand years ago the Romans traded on the shores; the Portuguese arrived in 1521 and by the 17th century the French had purchased the town, only relinquishing it in 1954. I wandered along one of the avenues with shade trees and neat houses, only to watch an elephant and its mahout cross the street in front of me – another day in the life of! As we made our way up to the Cardamom Hills we could see the exquisite beauty of the mountains and enjoy fragrant, clear air, redolent with the scents of spices and sweet breezes. A walk into the small town of Thekkady included lots of stops to look at boutiques selling saris, good fashion items, jewellery and some well-made souvenirs. From the foot of the beautiful Nilgiri Hills we began the steep and winding road looking down over the rolling plantations of tea. The entire town of Ooty was built by the British, and there’s a good legacy of guesthouses and hotels for the 21st century visitor. For fun take a ride on the Ooty ‘toy train’. This little wooden train runs most days but is subject to weather, elephants on the track, the odd landslide and rain. You choof through green hills to Coonoor, the old ‘summer capital’ of Madras. At 2240m above sea level, the air is clean, the monkeys are plentiful and the jacaranda trees and colourful lantana a sight for shining eyes. And for something completely different hop onboard a houseboat to ply the backwaters – Cochin in Kerala. The houseboats took about eight people and we each separated to our own vessels. We were served fine curries particular to this region with fresh fruit following. A heavy sleep and back on shore saw most people a little sad at leaving the houseboats. And it’s like that leaving India. I was a little sad, as I didn’t think I had understood it well enough – I didn’t have enough time. But hey, as the distance between us grows, my memories are growing fonder and I’m getting a bit more of a handle on things – but maybe I’m not. It doesn’t matter really. India goes from the sublime to the incredulous – and long may it stay that way. Remember India is not for the fainthearted, best to be under the guidance of a reliable company. Useful links: <a href="http://www.thaiairways.com/en/index.page">www.thaiairways.com</a> Written by Bev Malzard. Republished with permission of <a href="https://www.wyza.com.au/articles/travel/explore-the-southern-spice-trail-of-india.aspx">Wyza.com.au.</a>

Cruising

A ‘mistical’ day in the highlands

Justine Tyerman survives a panic attack in the middle of a tunnel on Japan’s Izu Peninsula and even enjoys hiking in the rain . . . Walking through the historic Amagi Tunnel evoked images of the beautiful young dancer and the student in The Izu Dancer. The 115-year-old moss-coated stone tunnel features in Yasunari Kawabata’s Nobel Prize-winning beautiful short story which I had just finished reading. About halfway through the 445m tunnel, I thought I felt a slight tremor and the words of our Walk Japan tour leader and guide suddenly began to echo inside my head. Describing Japan’s record for earthquakes upon our arrival in the Izu Peninsula the previous day, Yohei had said: “About 1500 earthquakes strike Japan every year with around 1000 minor tremors occurring each day. In 2005, 130,000 quakes were logged in Japan.” I quickened my pace. “It’s unusual for a year to go by without three or four earthquakes measuring 6.0 or more on the Richter scale,” he continued. “Japan actually accounts for about 20 percent of the earthquakes of magnitude 6 or greater.” I began to jog. “Deadly quakes are a tragic part of our nation's history,” he said. I ran like the wind towards the circle of light at the end of the 445m tunnel. “It would be just my luck for a quake to strike right now,” I thought, in mid-tunnel. “I’d never be found.” Emerging breathless at the end of the tunnel, those who had already made it through, alive and well, looked at me as though I was slightly deranged. My young Singaporean friends were busy setting up a group leap at the mouth of the tunnel. The photos looked pretty cool. Earlier that day, as we drove south along the east coast of the Izu Peninsula, waves were pounding the black volcanic rocks that characterise the region, and fishing boats were bucking at their moorings. Leaving the coast behind, we headed inland through lush green forests, negotiating many tunnels and the Kawazu Nanadaru Loop Bridge, a corkscrew-shaped construction completed in 1982 to accommodate terrain too steep for a conventional road. Our destination was the Amagi Highland in the middle of a mountain range which forms a spine along the length of the peninsula. The mountains had been pushed up, folded and crumpled when the Philippine Sea Plate collided with the Eurasian Plate 600,000 thousand years ago, creating the Izu Peninsula. Our local guide for the day, Dan Tsuchiya, was waiting for us at the turn-off to a steep, windy, narrow mountain road. Before setting off on our hike to Hatcho-ike (or Hacho Pond), the crater lake on Mt Amagi, Dan led us through a series of warm-up exercises in which everyone participated with great enthusiasm. There are maps and information boards everywhere on Japanese hiking trails, so we had an orientation session before we set off uphill through a beautiful forest of beech and maple trees. Our hike followed an ancient road that led to the once strategically-important port of Shimoda in the south of the peninsula (more about that later). Misty rain enhanced the colours and added a mystical, ethereal atmosphere to the landscape. As we climbed steadily higher, I was grateful for my layers of merino wool, wet weather gear – and umbrella to keep my camera dry. Dan stopped at his ‘secret favourite forest’ to show us images of maples ablaze in autumn regalia. Further on he pointed out a sad sight – the demise of the ‘mother tree’, the oldest tree in the forest. The 300-year-old beech had been blown over by the wind a couple of months earlier and would no longer feed the forest with seedlings or the animals with nuts. The forest floor was strangely clean, which gave the appearance of a well-kept park but in fact the lack of seedlings and undergrowth was attributable to the unsustainably large numbers of deer. They cannot be hunted in a national park so they take refuge there, eating everything except japonica, which is poisonous to them. Unless the deer population is controlled, japonica will take over the forest, said Dan. Inside an experimental area that had been fenced off to allow the forest to regenerate, seedlings and undergrowth were thriving. Beautiful azaleas are a feature of the Amagi Highland. People come from all over the country to see the trees flower in June and July. Some were already in flower, providing vivid splashes of colour amid the green of the forest. By the time we reached Hatcho-ike, the ‘Eye of Amagi’, at an altitude of 1170m, it was completely shrouded in mist and the temperatures were dropping. Our picnic lunch was a hurried affair on the steps of a demolished building that had its heyday last century when large numbers of people would hike up the track to ice-skate on the frozen pond in the winter. A photo on an information board shows dozens of skaters on the ice in the 1960s. What fun that would have been. Confusingly, the sign at the top said the pond was not a crater lake but a body of water created by a fault slip. As drizzle turned to heavy rain, we took a shortcut back to our bus, passing by an ancient road beneath a canopy of trees and clusters of vivid pink azaleas and rhododendrons. No-one seemed to mind hiking in the rain in such a beautiful forest. We all had umbrellas and wet weather gear so we were warm and dry. Hiking with an umbrella was a novel experience for me. I found it very useful for keeping my camera dry while taking photos in the rain . . . a third hand comes in handy too. Our accommodation for the evening was Amagiso Ryokan in Kawazu, a traditional Japanese inn with 28 hot springs baths including public outdoor pools at the foot of a spectacular waterfall. Open to male and female guests (in swimsuits), the pools have appeared in several Japanese movies and television series. Chatting with my fellow hikers in the hot springs in the misty drizzle with the waterfall gushing from the cliff above was sublime. Revitalised by the outdoor bath, I dressed in a bright yellow and white floral yukata with a blue haori (jacket) for dinner, another traditional Japanese feast of seafood and fresh produce. I was slightly alarmed at the live abalone on a burner in front of me, trying to escape his fate. On another burner, I cooked thick chunks of Kobe beef, vegetables and fiddlehead fern to tasty perfection. Other dishes included swordfish, white clams, shrimps, snails, sea bream, broad beans and mountain vegetables. The waitresses were exceptionally friendly and chatty – Yuki had spent time in Canada, and Takako had worked at Amagiso for about 25 years. Takako was also responsible for the beautiful flower arrangements at the inn. By the time I got back to my room, my futon had been made up with the lightest feather duvet. The rain was steady overnight and torrential by morning so my plan to return to the hot pool by the waterfall before breakfast was thwarted. The pathway was closed . . . along with numerous roads in the area. At breakfast, we could create our own omelettes with a variety of tasty ingredients and little burners. There was yoghurt, noodles, salad, miso, tofu and pickles too. A young kimono-clad girl escorted us to our bus under bright pink and purple umbrellas. The ever-resourceful Yohei came up with a rainy-day contingency plan. Hiking to Kawazu’s Seven Waterfalls was off the agenda so we visited the Uehara Museum of Art near Shimoda instead. The museum has two magnificent galleries displaying precious Buddhist art and sculptures dating back to the 8th century, and modern art including paintings by Monet, Renoir and Picasso. I fell I love with a beautiful sculpture there. She looked so forlorn in the rain. To be continued... Read Part One of Justine Tyerman’s Japan visit <a rel="noopener" href="https://www.oversixty.co.nz/travel/international-travel/living-like-a-local-in-japan/" target="_blank">here</a>. Justine Tyerman was a guest of <a href="https://walkjapan.com/">Walk Japan</a>.

International Travel

Property gurus: Inside Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban's incredible real estate portfolio

Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban have sealed themselves as Hollywood royalty over the span of their successful careers and maintained a loving audience all the way from Australia. Their affection for Aussies and the beautiful land down under is shown through their impressive real estate collection – that shows no signs of slowing down. The impressive properties the married pair share are scattered all around the globe and quite a few are right in the heart of Australia. From a Southern Highlands country home to a sky-high Milsons Point penthouse overlooking Sydney harbour, this Hollywood couple is spoilt for choice when choosing which house to stay in when they're back on Aussie soil. Swipe through the gallery above to see the incredible homes Nicole and Keith's own all around the world. Which one is your favourite property owned by Nicole and Keith? Let us know in the comments below.

Movies

8 reasons the Southern Highlands is the perfect holiday spot for seniors

The Southern Highlands has long been considered one of Australia’s best-kept secrets, and you don’t have to spend a lot of time there to see why. Whether you’re gazing upon the spring bloom, sitting by the fireside in winter or admiring the autumn colours, there’s something to do in this beautiful part of the country all year round. You could spend a lifetime listing the reasons why this part of the country is perfect destination for seniors, but we’ve only got time for eight (don’t worry, they should be enough to make a compelling argument). To see why you should book a weekend, week or maybe even longer in the Southern Highlands, scroll through the gallery above. What do you think? Have you been to the Southern Highlands before? Is there anything we didn’t include on our list, that you think we should’ve?

International Travel

A taste of country life in the Southern Highlands

Robyn Kennedy loves to explore and photograph Sydney and surrounds. Her blog <a href="http://www.lifeoutandabout.com.au/" target="_blank">Life Out & About</a> has become a passion, sharing ideas for outings in and around Sydney - charming gardens, bush walks, art galleries and inspiring places to eat! Connecting the historic towns and villages of the Southern Highlands is a network of quiet country roads. Rolling hills, tree lined farms and boutique wineries make the Highlands an idyllic place to explore by car, bike… or on foot! Also, with an impressive selection of fine dining restaurants and quality accommodation it’s easy to appreciate why many Sydneysiders find the Highlands a perfect destination for a weekend or day trip getaway, only 90 minutes’ drive south west of Sydney. What to see and do There is plenty to love in the Highlands! If you enjoy walking a country lane, exploring historic villages, art galleries and antiques stores… or dining al fresco in the vineyards, the Southern Highlands is for you! Also, during the Autumn and Spring many of the private gardens are open to the public… even if you don’t visit the gardens, the nature in and around the villages is uplifting. For suggestions on galleries, quirky antique shops, boutique stores and cafés, check out my blog <a href="https://www.lifeoutandabout.com.au/creatives-southern-highlands/">Creatives of the Southern Highlands</a>. <img width="500" height="250" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/39890/southern-highlands-one_500x250.jpg" alt="Southern Highlands One"/> Southern Highlands – Country Life – Drives – Walks – Eats – Arts – Antiques. Image credit: Robyn Kennedy. 1. Bendooley Estate – Lunch in the Vineyards Just a five minute drive from Berrima is the impressive 200-acre property, Bendooley Estate. This is the perfect place for a leisurely lunch in the countryside. On our last trip we had a balcony table where we could appreciate the beautiful estate grounds… and a glass or two of their very drinkable Pinot Gris. The interior also looked inviting, with a huge open fireplace and walls lined with hundreds of books, this is the iconic Berkelouw Book Barn and café. 2. Berrima Village Berrima has all the quaintness you would expect to find in an historic village. Besides the historic buildings, there are a number of good cafés and restaurants, as well as some quirky gift and homeware shops. For café food, try Josh’s Café or The Courtyard Café . Also, the Bendooley Estate mentioned above is only 5 minutes away. 3. The Pines Pastoral – Cottage Accommodations About a 10 minutes’ drive from Moss Vale is one of our favourite farm stay accommodations, The Pines Pastoral… home to six very comfortable farm cottages with open country views. We’ve stayed in two of the cottages, ‘Possums’ and ‘Sugar Glider’ and loved them both. 4. Sutton Forest <img width="500" height="250" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/39888/southern-highlands-two_500x250.jpg" alt="Southern Highlands Two"/> Sutton Forest Village – Country Life Southern Highlands. Image credit: Robyn Kennedy. The village of Sutton Forest is at the southern end of the Highlands, on the way to Bundanoon. One of the tiniest and most historic of all the Highlands’ towns and villages, definitely worth a visit. The old pub is great for a drink or two on the back veranda… lovely rural views. Sutton Forest is home to the Red Cow Farm private garden, one of the most visited in the region. Also close by is the historic Peppers Manor House, accommodation that allows you to indulge in life at a grand country house. When we visited a number of years ago we enjoyed staying at the little cottage at Montrose House and Berry Farm, just a 10 minute walk to the village. At various times throughout the year you can even pick your own berries! I have fond memories of our walk along the country road, to and from the local pub… especially the brilliant starry nights after a few glasses of wine. Just up the road from Sutton Forest is Exeter with its English style estates, leafy laneways and trimmed hedges. The old General Store is a working post office, store and café with homemade food and gourmet goodies. 5. Fitzroy Falls <img width="500" height="250" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/39887/southern-highlands-three_500x250.jpg" alt="Southern Highlands Three"/> Fitzroy Falls – Southern Highlands. Image credit: Robyn Kennedy. Magnificent Fitzroy Falls plunges over 80m to the valley below. The walk through the bush to the falls is beautiful. 6. Country Drive Taking a ‘mystery drive’ along the back roads, discovering hidden valleys and tiny villages is very much a part of visiting the Highlands. On my last trip with a good friend, we finished our day of ‘indulgence’ with a drive through Kangaloon and Robertson, then down Jamberoo Mountain to the coast. With the late afternoon light bathing the countryside, the colours and vistas were brilliant! What a pity we didn’t have an appetite for more coffee and cake as I would have fancied a stop off at the Robertson Cheese Factory. 7. Visit the Open Gardens I love Autumn and Spring in the Highlands when many private gardens open their gates to the public, and when the streets are filled with seasonal colours. Also, a number of gardens are located out of town so you get to enjoy a drive through the rural landscape… an inspiring way to spend a few hours! 8. Walks It’s surprising that I’ve not done more walks in the area, especially when there are so many places to explore by foot!!! This is a list of walks that have been recommended… let me know if you have any other suggestions. <ul> <li>Morton National Park – there are a number of worthwhile bushwalks, including Fitzroy Falls mentioned above. There is also the Bundanoon 14km cycling track… a trail that weaves through open forest of banksias and flowering shrubs, until you come to the edge of the escarpment formed by Bundanoon Creek.</li> <li>Bong Bong Track – a 10-kilometre walking/cycling path linking Bowral and Moss Vale… the track runs beside the Wingercarribee River.</li> <li>Box Vale Track – follows the formation of an historic railway line and passes through cuttings, along embankments and through a tunnel 84 metres is length.</li> <li>Berrima River Walk – as the name suggests, a walk by the river!</li> </ul> Have you ever been to the Southern Highlands? Hero image credit: Robyn Kennedy

International Travel

Southern Lights delight New Zealand for second night in a row

The Southern Lights were spotted from Auckland, Canterbury and the Otago Peninsula on Saturday. They then made an appearance in Wellington on Sunday, and were again spied in the sky over Canterbury. Natalie Crowther, who photographed the Aurora on Sunday, said she had never seen so many cars on the Port Hills, near Christchurch. "Fog covered Lake Ellesmere so we decided to go up the hill. There were about 200 cars that went through within three hours," she said. In Wellington, Jonathan Usher was also armed with a camera to capture the light display, and managed to snap the Aurora both nights of the weekend. "The scene was quite an amazing one," he said. It was Dave Watson's first time taking his 9-year-old daughter star-gazing on Saturday, and the pair weren't disappointed. They saw the glow from Rakaia Huts, southwest of Christchurch. Watson said the pair stood and watched in wonder at the Aurora's "big pointy streaks". Photographer <a href="https://www.facebook.com/shadowandshadenz">Larryn Rae</a> spotted the lights in Auckland. He'd <a href="http://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/90954085/Rare-showing-of-the-Aurora-Australis-in-Auckland&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwiPq7mGk7nTAhVE0mMKHfeJAkYQFggLMAI&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNGuW3d6wS1-ycssBMotBQx1UrvKag">previously photographed the Aurora</a>, but said Saturday night's made "the last one look like play school". What made the Aurora particularly unusual was its light beams, which Rae didn't believe were normally spotted from Auckland. Otago Museum director Dr Ian Griffin captured photos of the Aurora from Cape Saunders on the Otago Peninsula, on Saturday. He said the rainbow colours were a "truly gorgeous display". It was caused by a geomagnetic storm - the result of a large hole in the sun's surface. The lights should continue to be visible on Monday night. Griffin, the former head of public outreach at Nasa's Space Telescope Science Institute, shared some tips for spotting them. "Get away from city lights, find a place with a good view to the south and keep your fingers crossed," he said. The Aurora could be seen "surprisingly frequently" in New Zealand, especially from southern parts of the South Island. "I've lived here in Dunedin now for about four years and I've seen it on over 100 [occasions], I think it's about the 159th now. "So, on average, it's once every couple of weeks," Griffin said. Statistics for Christchurch were not as favourable because the city was further north. "But having said that you can see it quite a lot from Christchurch . . . You need to have a combination of clear skies and the Aurora going off at the same time. "[Saturday] night's display was a pretty special one, it was seen as far north as Auckland," he said. Seeing an Aurora from Auckland was "quite rare". "If you go back through history, it's once every five years or so. "Having said that, sometimes you might get two or three in a year and then one not for for 15 or 20 years. So seeing the Aurora in Auckland is pretty special and that points to the power of [Saturday] night's display," Griffin said. What made this aurora 'special'? Griffin said Saturday night's display was particularly impressive because of a phenomenon known as coronal mass ejection. "The sun basically blasts off some material and it struck the earth, or it impacted the earth's magnetic field, and that's what gave life to last night's beautiful Aurora and, certainly, it was pretty stunning last night. "Some of the popular spots down here were really full of people," Griffin said. "It just turns out last night that there was a load of material coming off the sun and the circumstances were just about perfect for a really good display." In the Northern Hemisphere, displays of the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) were expected to be visible as far south as New York, Washington and Wisconsin over the same period. First appeared on <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz</a>. Video credit: Facebook/<a href="https://www.facebook.com/photographyjpg/videos"> Jpg Photography</a>

Domestic Travel

Spectacular views of Southern Lights on world's first aurora flight

They came, they gazed, they conquered. The stars aligned for 130 aurora hunters on the first commercial flight to view the Southern Lights, which returned to Dunedin early on Friday morning. The sold-out Aurora Australis charter was led by Otago Museum director Dr Ian Griffin, who said it was a "trip I'll remember not only for the amazing photos and lovely views, but also for the many amazing people I met during the project". Passengers on the eight-hour journey on board the Air New Zealand 767 were treated to spectacular views of the aurora, said to be viewable by the naked eye. The apparent success of the charter flight, where everyone had a window seat to allow uninterrupted views, meant it was likely to be repeated by Orbit Travel for 2018. Tickets for the inaugural flight cost $4000 for economy class and $8000 for business class, and sold out in just five days. The official hashtag #flighttothelights has started trending on social media. Written by Hamish McNeilly. First appeared on <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz</a>. Video credit: Mark Gee/@<a href="https://www.facebook.com/theartofnight/videos/10154402177211099/">TheArtOfNight</a>

Domestic Travel

Destination focus: Southern Highlands

Home to the beautiful towns of Bowral, Mittagong, and Bundanoon, just to name a few, the picturesque New South Wales Southern Highlands is the perfect destination for a weekend getaway. Here’s our guide on how to spend your time in the Southern Highlands. Do The rolling hills of the Southern Highlands are perfect for bushwalkers of any ability. Fitzroy Falls has timber boardwalks leading to spectacular lookouts and rainforest waterfalls. The Box Vale track runs along a historic railway line, through rock cuttings and a long tunnel. As the sun sets, head to Bundanoon in the Morton National Park for a walk through Glow Worm Glen. Turn off your torch and you’ll see thousands of the tiny larvae glowing brightly against the darkness of the night. <img width="498" height="245" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/34163/image__498x245.jpg" alt="Image_ (105)"/> Shop Leave some room in the car – you will need the space for all the homewares, antiques and garden goodies you’re going to pick up. Suzie Anderson Home in Moss Vale is styled like the country house of your dreams, filled with plush throws, woven rugs, sculptural vases and stone serving ware. Lydie Du Brae Antiques is a huge barn in Braemar that’s a favourite of A-list designers and is stuffed full of furniture, chandeliers and tapestries. For the garden, try The Potting Shed in Bowral, Roundabout the House in Mittagong and Mount Murray Nursery. Drink The Hunter Valley gets all the press for New South Wales wine regions, but the Southern Highlands can hold its own. There are more than 50 vineyards and a dozen wineries in the region producing excellent cool climate varietals, especially pinot noir, pinot gris and sparkling. Many are small and you’ll be able to sample wines you won’t find in your local bottle shop. Hit the cellar doors at Tertini and Centennial Vineyards (both awarded five stars in the prestigious James Halliday guide), the family-friendly Banjo’s Run or the beautiful Diamond Creek Estate. <img width="498" height="245" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/34164/image__498x245.jpg" alt="Image_ (106)"/> Stay The charming country nature of the Southern Highlands calls for an equally charming cottage stay. There are plenty of B&Bs in the towns of Bowral, Sutton Forest, Mittagong and Robertson, or get away from it all with a farm stay. Luxury lovers can choose the stylish Gibraltar Hotel, complete with golf course and indoor heated pool, or the stately Peppers Manor House, a grand country house dating back to 1926. What’s your favourite thing to do in the Southern Highlands? Share your tips in the comments below.

International Travel

Crossing Australian aboard The Ghan

Great Southern Rail's Ghan train is epic. Traversing 2979 kilometres over three days and two nights on a magnificent and almost 1km-long snake of a train from Darwin in the Northern Territory to Adelaide in South Australia is a wondrous experience. Within half an hour of our departure from the lush greenery of Darwin I am talking to fellow punters in the Outback Explorer Lounge over a fine wine or beer. Dave and Sharon and Mal and Ros drove from Adelaide to Darwin for a "fun adventure" and now they are "relaxing in luxury for the return trip". With their cars safely locked up in The Ghan's transport carriage for the ridiculously cheap price of $300 a car, the four friends are happily viewing the scenery, and clinking glasses to celebrate. And celebrating the 10th anniversary of The Ghan track stretching from Alice Springs to Darwin, Great Southern Rail has included dining in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant, where gold and platinum-class travellers enjoy quality Australian wines, beers, base spirits, soft drinks, tea and coffee, complementing three-course meals. Guests sharing travelling experiences in the Outback Explorer Lounge enjoy the same refreshments. Proving popular, this initiative by GSR is to continue. Three options are available on The Ghan to heighten your experience. For the young at heart or budget-conscious, red class provides day-nighter reclining seats, cabinet food, meals and drinks for purchase. Gold-class passengers relax in private cabins that include big windows, a two-seater sofa (foldaway bed) and en suite. <img width="498" height="245" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/29259/image__498x245.jpg" alt="the ghan (1)" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Platinum contains a double bed and en suite and views from both sides of the exclusive carriages. Whatever class you choose, the focus is on relaxation and enjoyment as The Ghan journeys through the vast and diverse Australian landscape. Cynics of long train journeys often shout "Take a book", but time passes quickly and after our departure from Darwin at 9am, The Ghan reaches its first exciting stop at picturesque Katherine in just over three hours. Katherine is true adventure territory and the majestic 292,000-hectare Nitmuluk National Park is the gem of the region. With various excursions on offer, including a cultural experience, I choose the Nitmuluk Gorge cruise, which is a gentle journey through two gorges. Bordered by 60-metre-high sandstone cliff faces, designer-like fracture lines caused by erosion quickly become a visual treat. Amid the serenity, it is time to leave the boat and walk. With flat rocks laid into the pathway, wooden bridges and glistening, crystal-clear pools scattered along the trail and sub-gorges in the distance, it is well designed to evoke the natural beauty of Katherine, and one feels happily lost in another time and place. Back on board The Ghan after more than four hours absorbing the delights of Katherine, a refreshing shower enhances thoughts of dinner. In the plush Queen Adelaide dining car, we are seated at tables for four, and immediately conversation beckons. With crisp white tablecloths supporting wine glasses and plates, diners are happily invited to choose from the richly inspiring three-course menu. Entree is minestrone soup or my personal choice, blue swimmer crab, poached and served on sourdough with spiced avocado and topped with pickled ginger and cucumber. It was divine. For the main I chose grilled saltwater barramundi – delightful. Our table of four chose the decadent Belgian chocolate muntries pudding, dripping with chocolate sauce. <img width="498" height="245" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/29258/image__498x245.jpg" alt="ghan (1)" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Sipping red wine, it is hard to believe diners are seated on a train, and that is the thing about the journey on The Ghan. Viewing plush greens and then the rusty hues of Australia's red centre, residing in spacious cabins and absorbing interesting and funny tales from fellow travellers, it is more like being in a plush hotel – on steel wheels. Everything is taken care of. Beds are turned down when guests are at dinner and we arrive back at our cabins with handmade chocolates on the beds. Encouraged to sleep by the comforting rhythm of the rails, we awake the next day refreshed and eager to venture into our second stop, Alice Springs. Pyndan Camel Tracks (a family business) transport eight of us to its ranch-style acreage. We are novices at riding camels, but Marcus "The Camel Man" Williams beckons us towards the kneeling camels and explains that when seated, "Lean back in the seat and hold on as you will be lurched forward". The camels, including Doc, Ruby and Saleh, rise slowly, but the power in their back legs certainly propels one forward. Happy with our camel trail loosely roped together, we set off around the property for a surprisingly comfortable dusty-trail ride. Atop a camel on a gorgeous 25-degree morning lazily surveying the West MacDonnell Ranges, one feels totally at ease and wishes the camel trail would just go on and on. Camels can live until age 50 and are capable of carrying at least 300 kilograms. While other Alice Springs excursions, including the Alice Explorer and the Alice Springs Desert Park are inclusive, Pyndan Camel Tracks, subsidised by GSR, costs $40, and punters agreed it was THE choice. Relaxing in the Outback Explorer Lounge, Robert and Annette are celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary. Annette says Robert surprised her with a ticket and she is "loving every moment". The Ghan crosses its only two watercourses – the rivers Hugh and Finke – but they are rivers of sand. The Finke River features rocky riverbeds that date back 300 million years. The history and timelines realised during this journey are astonishing. After dinner, travellers reflect on their favourite parts of the trip. Peter was impressed with sighting the freshwater crocodiles almost disguised in the sand at Katherine, while Judy says riding a camel at Alice Springs has prompted her to buy a book called Tracks, by Robyn Davidson, who with four camels and a dog trekked 2700km across the Australian desert in 1977. <img width="498" height="245" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/29257/image__498x245.jpg" alt="the ghan" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/> Davidson's story has recently been made into a major film titled Making Tracks, starring Mia Wasikowska. On our final morning we awake to the staggering surrounds of the Flinders Ranges, which stretch more than 430km. Our final destination, Adelaide, is now only a few hours away and morning tea is provided, with selections of sandwiches, slices and muffins. From the railway town of Port Augusta and later the wind farms of Snowtown, suddenly acre upon acre of yellow fields fill the windows announcing (rapeseed) canola oil crops. Within the next few minutes the vista turns deep green, church steeples are seen in the distance and suddenly The Ghan has arrived in Adelaide. On arrival, it is hard to believe we have journeyed 2979km through the heart of Australia fuelled by comfort, fine food and new friends. The Ghan is a unique experience and one that richly rewards in many memorable ways. Have you ever taken The Ghan? Or have you been on one of the other great Australian train journeys? Let us know in the comments section. Written by Steve Scott. First appeared on <a href="http://Stuff.co.nz" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz</a>. Image credit: Great Southern Rail Related links: <a href="/travel/international/2016/07/the-cheapest-way-to-travel-from-venice-to-paris/">The cheapest way to travel from Venice to Paris</a> <a href="/travel/international/2016/07/10-views-you-can-only-experience-from-a-train/">10 views you can only experience from a train</a> <a href="/travel/international/2016/06/crossing-australia-in-style-aboard-the-indian-pacific/">Crossing Australia in style aboard the Indian Pacific</a>

International Travel

Cruising around Cuba’s southern coast

Tomorrow is tomorrow, says the Cuban sailor Gines Chavez Perez. Thank God, I think, for tonight has outstayed its welcome. Our boat is a cork tossed about on the swell somewhere out in the great Gulf of Cazones that separates Cuba's coast from the Canarreos Archipelago scattered to its south. Beneath us lies a chasm 2000 metres deep. The night is so black it has struck us blind: there is no moon, no stars by which to sail; not even the ocean's waves are betrayed by their foamy tips. "Don't worry," says Perez, his face turned into the wind. "We sail using everything – sails, power! Tomorrow is tomorrow. We won't get lost." We'd arrived in Cienfuegos just this afternoon, on the bus from Havana. On the way to the marina we'd passed rows of low-slung bungalows made over in benign shades of pastel and now advertised as holiday homestays. This is where Cuban dictator Fulgencio Batista's cronies were said to have lived during his regime: officers, politicians, the American mafia. The marina itself – an opulent, historic construction – had operated as a casino in those days. Then came Fidel Castro and his revolution. After dinner we'd struck out, leaving behind Cienfuegos and the jubilant late-night fiesta bubbling on its foreshore. Cruise ships and flashy yachts and catamarans were moored there, bobbing dinghies and doll-sized yachts whose bows barely poked above the water's surface and whose weathered bulwarks told a seafarer's tale. This great bowl of a harbour once protected the inhabitants of Cienfuegos from hurricanes and pirates; in later years, it dispatched shiploads of Cuban shrimp and sugar destined for the few countries willing to trade with the communist, pariah state. Today, it brims with interlopers: more vessels have passed through this port in the past two years alone that in the preceding two decades. Cuba is slowly reforming; it has opened its doors to the world and welcomed it in. <img width="499" height="285" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/23215/cuba-1_499x285.jpg" alt="Cuba 1"/> Fish for the taking The journey to paradise lasts six hours. In the morning I awake to find outside my cabin window a rocky isle lodged in a bath of clear water that stretches all the way to the horizon. Last night's rabid seas have given way to calm: the reef shifts beneath the water's surface and though the sky is streaked grey there's no breeze on the air. A fishing vessel is moored just off this craggy outcrop: while I was sleeping, Perez and our boat's captain, Miguel Fiallo Granda, boarded it to trade Havana rum in exchange for fresh fish. But there's fish for the taking out here in this great big swimming pool of an ocean. Though the hangman bird casts his sinister shadow upon the sea – foretelling, so Cuban fishermen say, a poor haul – we can see for ourselves a plentitude of flying fish leaping from the depths and Perez' line pulling taught behind us as we glide westward. The white shoreline of Cayo Largo del Sur soon comes into view, and it stays by our side all morning; but now we strike southwards and anchor just out of sight of land. Perez pulls on a wetsuit. The water is cold, he says: 26 degrees, around five less than the summer average. In winter, the ocean is a thermal layer cake, becoming progressively colder the deeper one goes. "I've measured 21 degrees at the bottom in winter," he says, recoiling at the memory. "In summer, it's 30, all the way down." Spear gun in hand, Perez plunges in. I hesitate on the boat's edge and brace myself for a cold baptism in the Caribbean Sea. The shock of fresh water on warm skin soon dissipates; now I'm sinking into a tepid underworld where coral forests sway lazily and fish flutter on the current. I try to track Perez through my goggles but he's too quick for me, darting into the shadows, diving to the chilly depths, jabbing at dark places with his spear gun. And then he pops to the surface, gun raised victoriously. Skewered on it are two fat, limp fish: dog snapper and hogfish, a feast for tonight's table. The stars come out early here above Canarreos Archipelago. Orion's belt gobbles up the sky and the moon casts soft light upon the 350 islets languishing upon these waters. Resorts are dotted sparingly about here, and they're indiscernible to us from our mooring. There are just eight of us on this catamaran – six travellers and two crew – and we might as well be all alone out here except for the mast lights betraying the handful of boats anchored in the bay. This paucity of visitors evokes a Robinson Crusoe mood next day when we anchor off a deserted isle and are taken ashore in Granda's dinghy. This blot of white sand and emerald scrub bears no name: it floats like a fragment of glory atop shallow, turquoise waters and can be circumnavigated by us, its only inhabitants, in a matter of minutes. Granda takes off again in the dinghy, waving us goodbye and instructing us to be ready for pick-up in a couple of hours' time. My companions and I build a sand mermaid and scour the beach for flotsam with which to decorate her: shells for a bikini, dried seaweed for hair, the tips of tropical succulents and a seagull's feather for a crown. We can see our catamaran, the Van Gogh, floating out there on the horizon, the water glittering like broken glass all around her. How long would it take to swim out to her, I think, and how would we spend our days if she drifted off without us? Late that afternoon, sun-warmed and salt-licked, we set course for Estopa Channel, a mangrove-lined waterway that comes as a surprise amid this apparently white-and-blue confection. Perez is back in the water again, probing the mangroves for tonight's dinner: Cubera snapper. Back on board, he beckons me to take the wheel. I cruise through the mangroves as the sun sets, aiming for the buoys lined up ahead where the ocean opens up, gold-skinned and brimming with more barracuda and mussels and mackerel and tuna than we could ever hope to eat. I had seen this seascape from aloft a few days earlier, when Granda hitched me to a harness and winched me all the way to the top of the mast: that heartbreaking view of a place so remote, so secretive it seemed to hover on the very edge of the world. The sensation was reinforced when I drank mojitos at Cayo Rico, kicked off from the boat and noticed that it appeared to be skating on a translucent slick of water that stretched off into infinity. This is where the world begins, it had seemed, and where it also ends. <img width="499" height="284" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/23216/cuba-2_499x284.jpg" alt="Cuba 2"/> Farewell to paradise In the final few days, time spins urgently: even paradise has a use-by date. Granda turns the boat back towards Cienfuegos. En route, we anchor beside a submerged shipwreck and I drift above it, studying its rusted hull through my goggles, wondering at the purpose of its long-ago journey and the people who had been aboard when it sank. The white spine of Cayo Largo del Sur's shoreline stays by our side as we sail to Punta Del Este, a familiar landmark guiding us home. On the last night out here, we take the dingy to a deserted island, light a bonfire, mix mojitos and watch the satellites orbiting earth. Tonight must never end, I say. Tomorrow is tomorrow, replies Perez. What an incredible story! Doesn’t Cuba sound like an idyllic place to visit? Have you ever visited Cuba, and how was the experience? Share your story in the comments. Written by Catherine Marshall. First appeared on <a href="http://Stuff.co.nz" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz.</a> Related links: <a href="/travel/cruising/2016/05/5-things-you-must-do-to-avoid-seasickness-on-a-cruise/">5 things you MUST do to avoid seasickness on a cruise</a> <a href="/travel/cruising/2016/05/10-things-you-must-never-do-in-a-cruise-cabin/">10 things you must never do in a cruise cabin</a> <a href="/travel/cruising/2016/05/po-ships-first-new-zealand-cruise/">P&O’s first cruise around New Zealand</a>

Cruising

"Return of the Catalina'' film to have southern premiere in Wanaka

Warbirds Over Wanaka is hosting the South Island premiere of the film Return of the Catalina, which tells the story of top secret long-distance flights to England after the fall of Singapore in World War II. Warbirds Over Wanaka general manager Ed Taylor says the November 4 screening at Cinema Paradiso brings attention to the unsung war heroes who reconnected Australia and New Zealand to their northern allies. The screening is a fundraiser for the NZ Catalina Preservation Society, which looks after New Zealabnd's only airworthy flying boat. It has been a crowd favourite at Warbirds Over Wanaka International Airshows. "The Catalina is returning to the airshow in 2016 after a major refurbishment so will be a special sight, especially seeing it landing on the lake," Taylor said. The Catalina crews provided a vital lifeline for the allied war effort, carrying secret cargo and VIPS across enemy territory in unarmed flying boats for up to 32 hours. They were in the air for so long they were named Double Sunrise Flights. Daniel Bunker's feature length documentary follows a band of aviators as they restore and fly a 70-year-old Catalina flying boat from Spain to Australia in order to recognise the unacknowledged war heroes. First appeared on <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz" target="_blank">Stuff.co.nz</a> Related links: <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/entertainment/technology/2015/10/iphone-photo-tips/">8 iPhone photo tips you’ll want to know about</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/entertainment/technology/2015/10/social-media-health-benefits-study/">Social media good for older people’s health</a> <a href="http://www.oversixty.co.nz/entertainment/technology/2015/10/people-failed-at-technology/">8 people who utterly failed at technology</a>

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Destination focus: Southern Highlands

Crossing Australian aboard The Ghan

Cruising around Cuba’s southern coast

"Return of the Catalina'' film to have southern premiere in Wanaka