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Mummified body of missing climber found after 22 years

<p>Twenty-two years ago, William Stampfl and two of his friends went missing when an avalanche buried them as they made their way up one of the highest peaks in the Andes mountains in Peru. </p> <p>William's family had little hope of finding him alive, or even retrieving his corpse from thick layers of snow, but in June his daughter got an unexpected call. </p> <p>A stranger said he had come across the climber's frozen, but mostly intact body as he made his own way up the Huascaran peak. </p> <p>"It's been a shock" Jennifer Stampfl said. </p> <p>The 53-year-old added: "When you get that phone call that he's been found your heart just sinks. You don't know how exactly to feel at first."</p> <p>A group of policemen and mountain guides retrieved his body on Tuesday, putting it on a stretcher and slowly taking it down the icy mountain. </p> <p>His body was found at an altitude of 5200m, around a nine-hour hike from one of the camps where climbers stop when they are climbing the summit. </p> <p>William's body and clothing were preserved by the ice and freezing temperatures, with the driver's licence in his hip pouch used to identify him. </p> <p>Lenin Alvardo, one of the police officers who participated in the recovery operation, added that the hip pouch also contained a pair of sunglasses, a camera, a voice recorder and two decomposing $20 bills.</p> <p>William still had a gold wedding ring on his left hand.</p> <p>"I've never seen anything like that," Alvarado said.</p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="es"><a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/%C3%81ncash?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#Áncash</a>🚹| ÂĄRescatan cadĂĄver en glaciar!<br />Agentes del Departamento de Alta Montaña, tras una intensa bĂșsqueda ubicaron el cuerpo momificado y deshidratado de una persona NN en el nevado de <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/Huascar%C3%A1n?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#HuascarĂĄn</a>. Sus restos fueron internados a la morgue de <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/Yungay?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#Yungay</a> para su identificaciĂłn. <a href="https://t.co/WJGklwUwbp">pic.twitter.com/WJGklwUwbp</a></p> <p>— PolicĂ­a Nacional del PerĂș (@PoliciaPeru) <a href="https://twitter.com/PoliciaPeru/status/1809394543512416721?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">July 6, 2024</a></p></blockquote> <p>The climber who found his body then called William's relatives, who then got in touch with local mountain guides. </p> <p>His daughter said that the family plans to move the body to a funeral home in Lima, where it can be cremated. </p> <p>"For 22 years, we just kind of put in our mind: 'This is the way it is. Dad's part of the mountain, and he's never coming home,'" she said.</p> <p>William was trying to climb Peru's highest peak with his friends Matthew Richardson and Steve Erskine in 2002. </p> <p>Erskine's body was found shortly after the avalanche, but Richardson's corpse is still missing.</p> <p>William's daughter said that a plaque in memory of the three friends was placed at the summit of Mount Baldy in Southern California, where the trio trained for their expeditions. </p> <p>She hopes to return to the site with her father's remains. </p> <p><em>Image: Peruvian National Police/ X </em></p> <p> </p>

Travel Trouble

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Altitude sickness is typically mild but can sometimes turn very serious − a high-altitude medicine physician explains how to safely prepare

<p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/brian-strickland-1506270">Brian Strickland</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/university-of-colorado-anschutz-medical-campus-4838">University of Colorado Anschutz Medical Campus</a></em></p> <p>Equipped with the latest gear and a thirst for adventure, mountaineers embrace the perils that come with conquering the world’s highest peaks. Yet, even those who tread more cautiously at high altitude are not immune from the health hazards waiting in the thin air above.</p> <p>Altitude sickness, which most commonly refers to <a href="https://medlineplus.gov/ency/article/000133.htm">acute mountain sickness</a>, <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pcad.2010.02.003">presents a significant challenge</a> to those traveling to and adventuring in high-altitude destinations. Its symptoms can range from <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/ham.2017.0164">mildly annoying to incapacitating</a> and, in some cases, may progress to more <a href="https://doi.org/10.1183/16000617.0096-2016">life-threatening illnesses</a>.</p> <p>While <a href="https://doi.org/10.18111/9789284424023">interest in high-altitude tourism is rapidly growing</a>, general awareness and understanding about the hazards of visiting these locations <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/ham.2022.0083">remains low</a>. The more travelers know, the better they can prepare for and enjoy their journey.</p> <p>As an <a href="https://som.cuanschutz.edu/Profiles/Faculty/Profile/36740">emergency physician specializing in high-altitude illnesses</a>, I work to improve health care in remote and mountainous locations around the world. I’m invested in finding ways to allow people from all backgrounds to experience the magic of the mountains in an enjoyable and meaningful way.</p> <h2>The science behind altitude sickness</h2> <p>Altitude sickness is rare in locations lower than 8,200 feet (2,500 meters); however, <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK430716/">it becomes very common</a> when ascending above this elevation. In fact, it affects about <a href="https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/yellowbook/2024/environmental-hazards-risks/high-elevation-travel-and-altitude-illness">25% of visitors to the mountains of Colorado</a>, where I conduct most of my research.</p> <p>The risk rapidly increases with higher ascents. Above 9,800 feet (3,000 meters), up to <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK430716/">75% of travelers</a> may develop symptoms. Symptoms of altitude sickness are usually mild and consist of <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/ham.2017.0164">headache, dizziness, nausea, fatigue and insomnia</a>. They usually <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rceng.2019.12.009">resolve after one to two days</a>, as long as travelers stop their ascent, and the symptoms quickly resolve with descent.</p> <p>When travelers do not properly acclimatize, they can be susceptible to life-threatening altitude illnesses, such as <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resp.2007.05.002">high-altitude pulmonary edema</a> or <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/1527029041352054">high-altitude cerebral edema</a>. These conditions are characterized by fluid accumulation within the tissues of the lungs and brain, respectively, and are the <a href="https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/yellowbook/2024/environmental-hazards-risks/high-elevation-travel-and-altitude-illness">most severe forms of altitude sickness</a>.</p> <p>Altitude sickness symptoms are thought to be caused by <a href="https://doi.org/10.1093%2Fbjaceaccp%2Fmks047">increased pressure surrounding the brain</a>, which results from the failure of the body to acclimatize to higher elevations.</p> <p>As people enter into an environment with lower air pressure and, therefore, <a href="https://doi.org/10.1001/jamanetworkopen.2023.18036">lower oxygen content</a>, their <a href="https://doi.org/10.1093%2Fbjaceaccp%2Fmks047">breathing rate increases</a> in order to compensate. This causes an increase in the amount of <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/s1357-2725(03)00050-5">oxygen in the blood as well as decreased CO₂ levels</a>, which then increases blood pH. As a result, the <a href="https://doi.org/10.1093%2Fbjaceaccp%2Fmks047">kidneys compensate</a> by removing a chemical called bicarbonate from the blood into the urine. This process makes people urinate more and helps correct the acid and alkaline content of the blood to a more normal level.</p> <figure><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iv1vQPIdX_k?wmode=transparent&amp;start=0" width="440" height="260" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe><figcaption><span class="caption">Tips for preventing or reducing the risk of altitude sickness.</span></figcaption></figure> <h2>The importance of gradual ascent</h2> <p>High-altitude medicine experts and other physicians <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/s0140-6736(76)91677-9">have known for decades</a> that <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/ham.2010.1006">taking time to slowly ascend is the best way</a> to prevent the development of altitude sickness.</p> <p>This strategy gives the body time to complete its natural physiologic responses to the changes in air pressure and oxygen content. In fact, spending just <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/ham.2010.1006">one night at a moderate elevation</a>, such as Denver, Colorado, which is at 5,280 feet (1,600 meters), has been shown to <a href="https://doi.org/10.7326/0003-4819-118-8-199304150-00003">significantly reduce the likelihood of developing symptoms</a>.</p> <p>People who skip this step and travel directly to high elevations are <a href="https://doi.org/10.1093/jtm/taad011">up to four times more likely</a> to develop altitude sickness symptoms. When going to elevations greater than 11,000 feet, multiple days of acclimatization are necessary. Experts generally recommend ascending <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/ham.2010.1006">no more than 1,500 feet per day</a> once the threshold of 8,200 feet of elevation has been crossed.</p> <p>Workers at high altitude, such as <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/ham.2020.0004">porters in the Nepali Himalaya</a>, are at <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wem.2018.06.002">particular risk of altitude-related illness</a>. These workers often do not adhere to acclimatization recommendations in order to maximize earnings during tourist seasons; as a result, they are more likely to experience <a href="https://www.cdc.gov/travel/yellowbook/2024/environmental-hazards-risks/high-elevation-travel-and-altitude-illness">severe forms of altitude sickness</a>.</p> <h2>Effective medications</h2> <p>For more than 40 years, <a href="https://doi.org/10.1056/nejm196810172791601">a medicine called acetazolamide</a> has been used to <a href="https://medlineplus.gov/druginfo/meds/a682756.html">prevent the development of altitude sickness</a> and to treat its symptoms. Acetazolamide is <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK557838/">commonly used as a diuretic</a> and for the <a href="https://www.nei.nih.gov/learn-about-eye-health/eye-conditions-and-diseases/glaucoma">treatment of glaucoma</a>, a condition that causes increased pressure within the eye.</p> <p>If started <a href="https://doi.org/10.1378/chest.09-2445">two days prior</a> to going up to a high elevation, acetazolamide can <a href="https://doi.org/10.1378/chest.09-2445">prevent symptoms of acute illness</a> by speeding up the acclimatization process. Nonetheless, it does not negate the recommendations to ascend slowly, and it is <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wem.2019.04.006">routinely recommended only</a> when people cannot slowly ascend or for people who have a history of severe altitude sickness symptoms even with slow ascent.</p> <p>Other medications, including ibuprofen, have <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wem.2012.08.001">shown some effectiveness</a> in treating acute mountain sickness, although <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.amjmed.2018.10.021">not as well as acetazolamide</a>.</p> <p>A <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2028586/">steroid medication called dexamethasone</a> is effective in both treating and preventing symptoms, but it does not improve acclimatization. It is <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wem.2019.04.006">recommended only when acetazolamide is not effective</a> or cannot be taken.</p> <p>Additionally, it is important to <a href="https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/page/travel-to-high-altitudes">avoid alcohol during the first few days at higher altitudes</a>, as it impairs the body’s ability to acclimatize.</p> <h2>Unproven therapies and remedies are common</h2> <p>As high-altitude tourism becomes increasingly popular, multiple commercial products and remedies have emerged. Most of them are not effective or provide no evidence to suggest they work as advertised. Other options have mixed evidence, making them difficult to recommend.</p> <p>Medications such as <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/ham.2007.1037">aspirin</a>, <a href="https://doi.org/10.1183/13993003.01355-2017">inhaled steroids</a> and <a href="https://doi.org/10.1089/ham.2011.0007">sildenafil</a> have been proposed as possible preventive agents for altitude sickness, but on the whole they have not been found to be effective.</p> <p><a href="https://doi.org/10.1093/qjmed/hcp026">Supplements and antioxidants have no proven benefit</a> in preventing or treating altitude sickness symptoms. Both normal and high-altitude exercise are popular ways to prepare for high elevations, especially among athletes. However, beyond <a href="https://doi.org/10.1097/jes.0b013e31825eaa33">certain pre-acclimatization strategies</a>, such as brief sojourns to high altitude, <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tmaid.2013.12.002">physical fitness and training is of little benefit</a>.</p> <p><a href="https://missouripoisoncenter.org/canned-oxygen-is-it-good-for-you">Canned oxygen</a> has also exploded in popularity with travelers. While <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/0140-6736(90)93240-p">continuously administered medical oxygen</a> in a health care setting can alleviate altitude sickness symptoms, portable oxygen cans <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wem.2019.04.006">contain very little oxygen gas</a>, casting doubt on their effectiveness.</p> <p>Some high-altitude adventure travelers sleep in <a href="https://doi.org/10.2165/00007256-200131040-00002">specialized tents</a> that simulate increased elevation by lowering the quantity of available oxygen in ambient air. The lower oxygen levels within the tent are thought to accelerate the acclimatization process, but the tents aren’t able to decrease barometric pressure. This is an important part of the high-altitude environment that induces acclimatization. Without modifying ambient air pressure, these <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wem.2014.04.004">tents may take multiple weeks</a> to be effective.</p> <p>Natural medicines, such as <a href="https://doi.org/10.1580/08-weme-br-247.1">gingko</a> and <a href="https://doi.org/10.1186/s40794-019-0095-7">coca leaves</a>, are touted as natural altitude sickness treatments, but few studies have been done on them. The modest benefits and significant side effects of these options makes their use <a href="https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wem.2019.04.006">difficult to recommend</a>.</p> <p><a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8469948/">Staying hydrated</a> is very important at high altitudes due to fluid losses from increased urination, dry air and increased physical exertion. <a href="https://doi.org/10.1186%2Fs12889-018-6252-5">Dehydration symptoms</a> can also mimic those of altitude sickness. But there is <a href="https://doi.org/10.1580/1080-6032(2006)17%5B215:AMSIOF%5D2.0.CO;2">little evidence that consuming excessive amounts of water</a> can prevent or treat altitude sickness.</p> <p>The mountains have something for visitors of all interests and expertise and can offer truly life-changing experiences. While there are health risks associated with travel at higher elevations, these can be lessened by making basic preparations and taking time to slowly ascend.<!-- Below is The Conversation's page counter tag. Please DO NOT REMOVE. --><img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/222057/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /><!-- End of code. If you don't see any code above, please get new code from the Advanced tab after you click the republish button. The page counter does not collect any personal data. More info: https://theconversation.com/republishing-guidelines --></p> <p><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/brian-strickland-1506270"><em>Brian Strickland</em></a><em>, Senior Instructor in Emergency Medicine, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/university-of-colorado-anschutz-medical-campus-4838">University of Colorado Anschutz Medical Campus</a></em></p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images </em></p> <p><em>This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/altitude-sickness-is-typically-mild-but-can-sometimes-turn-very-serious-a-high-altitude-medicine-physician-explains-how-to-safely-prepare-222057">original article</a>.</em></p>

Travel Trouble

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“I didn’t want to come out!”: Spanish mountaineer emerges after 500 days underground

<p>When Spanish mountaineer Beatriz Flamini descended into her cave - and home for the next 500 days - the world was an entirely different place. </p> <p>COVID-19 restrictions were still enforced, Queen Elizabeth II was still alive and on the throne, war hadn’t been declared in Ukraine, and Flamini herself was only 48. </p> <p>She entered the cave on November 20 2021, and while she was forced to surface for eight days while repairs were made to a router - one used for transmitting audio and video - she spent that brief period isolated in a tent. </p> <p>And then, a year and a half later, a 50-year-old Flamini emerged from 230 feet underground outside of Granada, Spain. And while most would be eager for some sunshine and some company after such a stint, Flamini had an entirely different take, informing everyone that she had actually been sound asleep when her team came to collect her. </p> <p>“I thought something had happened,” she said. “I said, ‘already? Surely not.’ I hadn’t finished my book.”</p> <p>And when it came to whether or not she’d struggled while down there, Flamini was quite to declare “never. In fact, I didn’t want to come out!”</p> <p>To keep herself occupied during the marathon stay, Flamini tried her hand at a whole host of popular pastimes, from knitting to exercising, painting, knitting, and reading. The effort paid off, the days flying by as the determined mountaineer successfully lost track of time.</p> <p>“On day 65, I stopped counting and lost perception of time,” she explained. “I didn’t talk to myself out loud, but I had internal conversations and got on very well with myself.</p> <p>“You have to remain conscious of your feelings. If you’re afraid, that’s something natural, but never let panic in, or you get paralysed.”</p> <p>Flamini was given a panic button in case of emergency, but she never felt the need to use it. And while her support team were on hand to give her clean clothing, provide essential food, and remove any waste that had accumulated, they were not to talk to her.</p> <p>“If it’s no communication it’s no communication, regardless of the circumstances,” Flamini said of that particular decision. “The people who know me knew and respected that.”</p> <p>As for what comes next, Flamini will now be studied by a team of experts - psychologists, researchers, and the like - to determine what impact the isolation of her extended time below might have had on her. </p> <p><em>Images: Getty, Sky News</em></p>

Travel Trouble

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New Gold Mountain review: a compelling murder mystery shines light on early Australian multiculturalism

<p>The beautifully shot and evenly paced New Gold Mountain, the new series from SBS, is an 1850s-era murder mystery set in the Ballarat goldfields during the gold rush heyday.</p> <p>In 1851, gold was discovered in Ballarat – a little known pastoral outpost of the British empire. News of the strike quickly spread and the town rapidly developed. Initially, the first arrivals came from other parts of Victoria. Others followed from other Australian colonies. Soon after, international arrivals came from all regions of the globe and in 1852 many arrived from Southern China in search of gold.</p> <p>New Gold Mountain focuses on this Chinese-Australian goldfields experience, primarily from the point of view of Leung Wei Shing (Yoson An), the brooding headman of the Chinese miners and his relationships with his younger, errant brother Leung Wei Sun (Sam Wang) and his loyal assistant Gok (Chris Masters Mah).</p> <p><iframe width="440" height="260" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/r-8U7AmNp-U?wmode=transparent&amp;start=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p> <p>The narrative is widened to include Belle Roberts (Alyssa Sutherland), the English widow turned newspaper proprietor; Hattie (Leonie Whyman), the resilient Indigenous woman trying to get by; and Patrick Thomas (Christopher James Baker), the troubled Irish miner whose wife’s disappearance drives the plot.</p> <p>In their own ways, each character is caught between different cultures, friendships and allegiances in the rapidly forming goldfields frontier society on the far side of the world.</p> <h2>A Chinese Australian tale</h2> <p>Chinese migration patterns to Australia were largely based on regional associations, particularly in the localities of Toi Shan, Sze Yup and Sam Yup in Guangdong, Southern China. These regional associations and “brotherhoods”, as they are referred to in the series, were labour recruiting mechanisms similar to the one Wei Shing runs at this Chinese camp.</p> <p>Here, Cheung Lei (Mabel Li) brings into play the connections, allegiances and complexities between Chinese gold seekers in the Australian colonies and their backers in China.</p> <p><a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/425586/original/file-20211010-25-7hpfvp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=1000&amp;fit=clip"><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/425586/original/file-20211010-25-7hpfvp.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;fit=clip" alt="Production image: a white woman and an Asian man talk." /></a></p> <p>On one hand, relations between key characters and groups (primarily between the Chinese and Europeans) are typified by racism and hostility. But there is also cooperation, as Wei Shing and Belle unite to solve the murder. Sometimes there is brutal friendship, as when Wei Shing and the Chinese protector, Standish (Dan Spielman), finally establish exactly where they stand with each other.</p> <p>Director Corrie Chen and creator Peter Cox pull no punches while maintaining a compelling murder mystery and this lively ensemble offers a nuanced reading of the Australian goldfields experience, telling a mature and ambiguous account of the frontier.</p> <p>The other stars of the series are the distinctive former mining landscapes and Sovereign Hill providing the visual backdrops for the 1850s goldfields society. You can imagine how startled recent arrivals from the bustling South China trading ports of Guangzhou, Hong Kong and Macau must have been on disembarkation. The flora and fauna – literally everything – was so different to home.</p> <p><a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/425633/original/file-20211011-23-vtq501.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=1000&amp;fit=clip"><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/425633/original/file-20211011-23-vtq501.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;fit=clip" alt="A Chinese man stands amid red lanterns" /></a></p> <p>Chen explores this shock in a moment of brief magical realism with Wei Shing’s encounters with a kangaroo. It seems the bush sees all. The Chinese miners and their Indigenous and European counterparts were all coming to terms with a landscape broken by mining and colonised by a disparate society coming to terms with its own experiences and opportunities. New Gold Mountain evocatively captures this moment.</p> <h2>The gold rush on screen</h2> <p>Australian goldfields life has been shown on television before, notably <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071046/?ref_=fn_tt_tt_7">Rush</a>, the Victorian gold rush era drama from the 1970s.</p> <p>But the obvious cultural point of reference is <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0348914/">Deadwood</a> (2004-06), David Milch’s multi-layered historical narrative based on the 1850s gold-rush town in the Black Hills Indian Cession, a region that subsequently became South Dakota.</p> <p>Much of Deadwood centres on the business dealings between the Chinese headman, Mr Wu, and the corrupt saloon owner and town powerbroker, Al Swearengen. The inherent racism of frontier life is apparent, as is the mutual respect the two men have for each other as they seek to benefit from nefarious business dealings.</p> <p>Similar complex, intertwined plots of shifting alliances and a mutual desire to win money run through New Gold Mountain.</p> <p><a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/425627/original/file-20211011-21-1dkjedm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=1000&amp;fit=clip"><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/425627/original/file-20211011-21-1dkjedm.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;fit=clip" alt="Production image: a Chinese man looks for gold in his hands." /></a></p> <p><span class="caption"></span>On closer viewing, the series also shares a watermark with the New Zealand made <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0195822/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1">Illustrious Energy</a> (1988), directed by Leon Narbey, which also explored the goldfields experience from a Chinese perspective. Other Australian colonial stories have been told in John Hillcoat’s <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0421238/?ref_=fn_al_tt_2">The Proposition</a> (2005) and Jennifer Kent’s recent <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4068576">The Nightingale</a> (2018).</p> <p>Yoson An’s smouldering portrayal of Wei Shing resembles Jay Swan’s character in <a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7298596/">Mystery Road</a> (2018–). Both are extremely resourceful, conflicted and move between different worlds while confronting the ghosts of their own respective pasts in remote Australia.</p> <h2>Historical voices together</h2> <p>New Gold Mountain emphasises the little told history of the Chinese on the diggings. The paradoxical nature of the colonial gold seeking era is best understood when all the historical voices are heard together. If one story dominates, much of the historical themes which help to explain Australian society in the present day are missed.</p> <p>The show also reminds us of the complex enduring relationship between China and Australia, which has often been driven by the mining industry.</p> <p>But, ultimately, it’s a cracking murder mystery that reminds viewers the first Australian multicultural moment happened in the mid-19th century – not the 20th.</p> <p><em>New Gold Mountain premieres on SBS Wednesday 13 October.</em></p> <p><span><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/keir-reeves-872184">Keir Reeves</a>, Professor of History &amp; Director Future Regions Research Centre, <em><a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/federation-university-australia-780">Federation University Australia</a></em></span></p> <p>This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/new-gold-mountain-review-a-compelling-murder-mystery-shines-light-on-early-australian-multiculturalism-169527">original article</a>.</p> <p><em>Image: SBS</em></p>

TV

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How a team of hungry GOATS is helping to fight fires

<p>After the devastating bushfires that ravaged Australia in 2019 and 2020, the RFS is looking to unusual method to prevent history from repeating. </p> <p>A new tactic adopted by the Rural Fire Service has been to put some furry friends to good use by doing what they do best: eating! </p> <p>Hungry goats have been given the job of protecting towns that have been identified as an extreme bushfire risk this summer by grazing on all the grass and shrubs. </p> <p>A herd of bucks and billies have been placed at <span>Clandulla village near Mudgee in NSW's Central West, after being loaned to the area by two local farmers. </span></p> <p><span>They will be grazing on the land in Clandulla for the next two months, eating their way through the foliage that poses a fire risk.</span></p> <p><span>"Goats will eat up shrubs, small tree saplings and eat woody weeds some of your other animals won't," farmer Michael Blewitt said.</span></p> <p><span>While this </span>unique method of containing fires is a first for Australia, the tactic has been used and proven to work in the US, Spain and Portugal. </p> <p><span>These goats are expected to clear more than two hectares over the next three weeks, creating a buffer zone to the village of 200 people.</span></p> <p><span>While back burning is an efficient way of clearing fire hazards, it is often dependant on weather conditions, where </span>goats are happy to clear away grass, shrubs and bushes in rain, hail or shine. </p> <p><em>Image credit: Shutterstock</em></p>

Travel Trouble

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Heroic mum fights off mountain lion with her bare hands

<p>A mother in California is being hailed a hero after fighting off a dangerous mountain lion that attacked her son.</p> <p>The woman used her bare hands to fend off the animal after it lunged at her five-year-old son and dragged him along the front lawn of his home. </p> <p><span>The California Department of Fish and Wildlife said the boy was playing near his house, west of Los Angeles, when the mountain lion attacked. </span></p> <p><span>After the mother heard the boy's screams, her protective instincts kicked in and she rushed to the rescue. </span></p> <p>"She ran out of the house and started punching and striking the mountain lion with her bare hands and got him off her son," Department spokesman Patrick Foy told the Associated Press.</p> <p>"The true hero of this story is his mom because she absolutely saved her son’s life."</p> <p>Once the boy was free from the jaws of the mountain lion, he was immediately taken to the hospital where law enforcement were notified of the attack. </p> <p>Mr Foy shared that the five-year-old boy had sustained traumatic injuries to his head and torso.</p> <p>Authorities also confirmed that following the attack, the mountain lion has been shot and killed by a wildlife officer. </p> <p>The officer was sent to the scene shortly after the attack, arriving to find the mountain lion crouching in the bushes with its “ears back and hissing” at him.</p> <p>“Due to its behaviour and proximity to the attack, the warden believed it was likely the attacking lion and to protect public safety shot and killed it on site,” the wildlife department said in a statement Saturday.</p> <p><em>Image credit: Shutterstock</em></p>

Travel Trouble

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The mountain no one can climb

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">For a country where mountain tourism has thrived, there is one mountain in Nepal where climbing is forbidden.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Machhapuchhre - meaning “fishtail” - stands at 6,993m in the Annapurna range in central Nepal that is home to three of the world’s 10 highest mountains.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Though it doesn’t stand as tall as other mountains, it stands out as a lone peak and appears much taller than it actually is.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Machhapuchhare also has a double summit, which is joined by a sharp ridge, and towers over the Phewa Lake.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The closest curious tourists can get to the peak is the summit of Mardi Himal, a smaller mountain beneath Machhapuchhare.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The reason behind it’s prohibited climbing status: Lieutenant Colonel James Owen Merion Roberts.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Jimmy Roberts, as he was popularly known, was a British Army officer and the first military attach</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Ă© to Nepal. He made significant contributions to Nepal’s economy and local livelihoods after helping open up the country’s remote mountains for commercial mountaineering and trekking.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Roberts has since been remembered as the “father of trekking” in Nepal.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">His fascination with Machhapuchhare began after he read a dispatch from another army officer, and he would eventually become the first and only person to attempt to reach the summit.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">But, his expedition party, reduced to just two people by the end, abandoned the ascent just 45m below the summit due to bad weather.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Following the failed climb, Roberts requested the Nepal government restrict the peak and ensure Machhapuchhare would never be climbed.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">They obliged.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Roberts’ fascination with the mountain and his kinship with Gurungs, who hold Machhapuchhare sacred, and with the people of Chomrong, the last Gurung village before the mountain, may have been the motivation behind his odd request.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Though the reason remains a mystery and Roberts’ association with the peak’s prohibited status has been largely forgotten, the prevailing view now is that the mountain is sacred and therefore forbidden to climb.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“Machhapuchhare’s summit is not meant to be stepped upon; it is only to be adored by the eyes,” said Tirtha Shrestha, a poet and long-time resident of nearby Pokhara.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“Any discourse, not just on Pokhara, but about the beauty of the entire Himalayas, would be incomplete without mentioning Machhapuchhare. Its beauty has greatly moved poets, authors and artists. In many folk songs, the mountain has been showered with praises. Machhapuchhare, for us, is the epitome of beauty,” he said.</span></p> <p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Image: MountainKick / Instagram</span></em></p>

International Travel

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The monks walking Japan’s mountains

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">In the ancient forests of Dewa Sanzan in Yamagata Prefecture, Japanese mountain worshippers, called Yamabushi, have been walking the mountainous paths for 1400 years.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Though it is an enjoyable place to hike, the monks are walking in pursuit of spiritual rebirth.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Yamagato lies in the northernmost region of Japan’s Honshu island, and is an isolated, mountainous region prone to heavy snowfall.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan, and Mount Yudono of Dewa Sanzan - literally “the Three Mountains of Dewa Province” - have been deemed sacred since 593 A.D., when Prince Hachiko fled to Mount Haguro following the assassination of his father, Emperor Sushun. The prince was told the mountain would be where he would encounter Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, so he built shrines on each peak to keep the mountain gods there and ensure the region would experience peace and prosperity.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The mountains were established as a centre for Shugendo, a Japanese form of worship dating back to when the mountains were considered deities. Eventually Shugendo would incorporate elements of Shinto, Buddhism, and Taoism and form the religion of the Yamabushi.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“Historically, the Yamabushi lived on the higher mountains of Japan. They would years on end in the mountains,” explained Timm Bunting, a Yamabushido Project Leader and Yamabushi Master Assistant.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“For example, the Yamabushi who self-mummified to become </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Sokushinbutsu</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> (Living Buddha) had to spend at least 1,000 days in the mountains,” he said.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">This self-mummification process required the Yamabushi to fast for an extended period, and was outlawed more than 100 years ago.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Today, the 6000 Yamabushi still in Japan believe Shugendo’s training in the harsh environment of the mountains can bring enlightenment.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">To become a certified Yamabushi, a week-long Akinome Autumn Peak Ritual must be completed. Though its exact nature is secret, the ritual is known to include meditation under a waterfall, nightwalking, and visiting places where the gods live on the mountains and praying. This immersion in the mountains is thought to help the Yamabushi become one with the mountain’s spirit and allow them re-emerge enlightened.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“In walking we are born again. We rejuvenate our life,” said Master Yoshino, a 13th-generation Yamabushi priest and head of the Haguro Yamabushi.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">A growing number of people around Japan and the world have rediscovered Dewa Sanzan’s healing energy, and thousands have taken part in Yamabushi training offered in both Japanese and English.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">During the one-day, two-day, or four-day course, participants can only say one word, “uketamou” (I accept), in response to instructions. Phones, watches, brushing teeth, shaving, reading, and writing are also prohibited to help participants partake in self-discovery and mindfulness.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Maiko Ito, a Yamabushido Project Leader, said: “We want people to face themselves, to look at the feet they are standing on, and to feel a connection with nature, society, and the world.”</span></p> <p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Images: The Dewa Sanzan / Instagram</span></em></p>

International Travel

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‘Breathing’ mountains could help us understand earthquake risks

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;"> As the Earth’s surface shifts over time, oceans have opened and closed while new mountains climb towards the sky.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">But mountains can also sink back to Earth, usually due to stress caused by the same collisions of tectonic plates that triggers earthquakes.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">These events happen in cycles, and you could imagine it like the chest of a rocky giant breathing unevenly, explains Luca Dal Zilio, a geophysicist at the California Institute of Technology.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The best example of this phenomenon? The 2,200 kilometres of peaks that make up the Himalaya. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">By understanding the complex forces driving this cycle, the local risk of earthquakes that threaten millions of people living nearby can be more well-understood.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Since similar geological ‘breaths’ have been documented worldwide, the review Dal Zilio and colleagues recently </span><a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s43017-021-00143-1"><span style="font-weight: 400;">published in </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Nature Reviews</span></a><span style="font-weight: 400;"> could be the key to understanding the processes behind many of Earth’s mountain ranges - and the risks they might pose.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Compiling more than 200 studies of Himalayan geology, the paper looks to lay out the intricate mechanisms behind this ‘breathing’.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The lengthy expanse and geologic complexity of the Himalaya make it a terrific natural laboratory, says study co-author Judith Hubbard, a structural geologist at Nanyang Technological University in Singapore.</span></p> <p><strong>Inhaling and exhaling over time</strong></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The Himalaya formed from a tectonic pileup about 50 million years ago, when the Indian continental plate crashed into the Eurasian plate. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">To this day, India continues moving northward by almost two inches every year. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">However, the land doesn’t slide under Eurasia, instead causing the Eurasian plate to bulge and bunch and drive the mountains slightly higher in a long inhale.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Eventually, this pressure will hit a breaking point, where the land masses will shift in an earthquake in a geologic exhale, or cough.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">A deadly example of this exhalation came in 2015, when a 7.8-magniture earthquake caused a part of the Himalaya to sink by almost 600 centimetres.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Different parts of a mountain range can exhale at different intensities. While some cough violently, others might experience a series of hiccoughs. They might not exhale the exact same way each time either.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“Even the same patch can have different behaviours at different times,” says Rebecca Bendick, a geophysicist at the University of Montana. “And pretty much nobody has the foggiest clue why.”</span></p> <p><strong>Putting the pieces together</strong></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">To understand how this process works, scientists have to piece together mountain-building processes that happen on varying scales of time - from slow moving tectonic plates to near-instantaneous shifts of earthquakes.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Since these phenomena are measured differently, looking at the shape of the fracture between the two plates can help scientists bridge the gap.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">In the Himalaya, the fault spanning 2200 kilometres has several kinks and bends remaining from the original collision that formed the range. These features have continued to slowly evolve and can influence how an earthquake progresses today.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">In the recent review, Hubbard found a paper suggesting that structures surrounding the fault - such as bends beneath the surface - limited the magnitude of the 2015 quake.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Dal Zilio says that other structures that might be present across the rest of the range could similarly limit how far a quake might spread.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“The ultimate goal is to know what kinds of earthquakes we can expect and what kinds of damage they will produce,” Hubbard says. “If we’re trying to learn about that exhale or cough process but the earth isn’t exhaling or coughing, it’s really hard to learn about it.”</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">To fill in the gaps, some researchers are looking at the scars left from past earthquakes.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">But there are many challenges that present major obstacles, especially when the terrain is too difficult to measure using current technology.</span></p> <p><strong>Shifting forward</strong></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">As the cycle of inhalation and exhalation continues, the system will also change and make understanding it even more difficult. Some of the accumulated stress from every inhale will permanently deform the rock, even after the next exhale, as the release of all of the stress would mean that no mountain would still be standing, Hubbard notes.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">As India continues to inch closer under Eurasia, other landscape features will also change.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Bendick says, “at some point, Nepal will cease to exist”, as the Indian plate’s movement over the next tens of thousands of years will cause the southern border to move ever northward and slowly squeeze Nepal.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“At that very long time scale, nothing is fixed,” she says. “‘Set in stone’ is not the right phrase.”</span></p>

International Travel

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Boy climbs UK's tallest mountain after being told he’d never walking again

<p><span>A seven-year-old boy with cerebral palsy has overcome huge adversity after climbing Britain’s tallest mountain for charity, even though his parents were told he’d never walk again. </span><br /><br /><span>Caeden Thomson, from Corby, Northamptonshire, was born 12 weeks premature, and has undergone intense physiotherapy to walk again. </span><br /><br /><span>Despite doctors' claims that he would never properly take his first steps, Caeden nor his family gave up. </span><br /><br /><span>On his JustGiving page, his mother Lisa said he wanted to be able to "give something back", because "he was so lucky for all the things he has had in his life".</span><br /><br /><span>At just seven, he hiked the 1,345 metres to the top of Ben Nevis in the Highlands on Saturday, and managed to raise more than ÂŁ8,000 for his local NHS trust and disability equality charity, Scope.</span><br /><br /><span>The group began to make their way up the massive mountain at 9am. </span><br /><br /><span>Together, they would reach the summit at 5.30pm, before returning to the bottom five hours later.</span><br /><br /><span>Caeden said: "My body hurts a lot but I'm OK. It was really, really hard.</span><br /><br /><span>"I felt sick and exhausted at the top, and I felt exhausted but happy at the bottom!"</span><br /><br /><span>His mum says her son is "an absolute legend". </span><br /><br /><span>To say it was a “massive challenge” was an understatement for the group, who said it was “much, much harder than any of us expected".</span><br /><br /><span>She said: "There were many hard times along the way. From three-quarters of the way up, the pathway is just massive boulders and very hard to climb, and even at the top we didn't think he would make it down.</span><br /><br /><span>"There were danger areas where carrying was very difficult, so Caeden did have to walk down a lot of it too.</span><br /><br /><span>"The temperature dropped hugely and many climbers said they were turning back. But we made it!</span><br /><br /><span>"We are all super-proud of him, he deserves a medal.</span><br /><br /><span>"Last night no-one could move or celebrate, so today we are resting up and will celebrate tonight.</span><br /><br /><span>"We all love Caeden so much and can't believe his passion for getting to the top."</span></p>

Caring

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In the company of mountain gods

<p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Justine Tyerman practises her “one foot after the other” mantra on day two of the Bear Trek in the Swiss Alps. </span></em></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Kleine Scheidegg Pass looked formidable in the early morning light, shaded by the massive granite North Face of the Eiger. I was tempted to bury my head under my cosy down duvet, feign a pulled ligament or something and allow Guide Birgit and Team Super-Fit to hike on without me.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">I had made the mistake of studying the profile of Day Two of the Bear Trek the night before and discovered that before we even started the climb, the track plunged all the way to the valley floor, appropriately called Grund, adding hours and vertical metres to an already challenging ascent.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The warning bells I had earlier ignored before I left New Zealand were clanging away again inside my head, but so too were my Kiwi tramping friend’s words that had kept me going the previous day: “One foot after the other and you’ll get there... eventually.” </span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Besides, I was the only Kiwi in the group and I couldn’t let the Aussies get the better of me. I floundered my way out of duvets and pillows so deep, they must have placed the entire Swiss goose population in serious jeopardy, showered, pulled on my hiking gear and presented myself in the dining room with a brave smile on my face.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Over a hearty breakfast at our lovely Hotel KirchbĂŒhl high above the village of Grindelwald, Birgit studied the itinerary for Day Two.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The detailed route map proposed by Eurotrek, the company that organised our hike, went from Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen via Kleine Scheidegg Pass, covering 19.5km, ascending 1230m and descending 1465m, a hiking time of seven hours, 25 minutes.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Birgit frowned... and then beamed.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">“I think we’ll take the train to Alpiglen,” she said. “No point in walking all the way down just to climb back up again. And we’re staying in Wengen for the night which is much closer than Lauterbrunnen.”</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Tall, lean Ms Super-Duper Fit was crestfallen but I was so relieved I hugged Birgit.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">What a wonderful, wise woman</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">, I thought.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> How I love the Swiss Transport System. There’s always a train, bus, cablecar, gondola or funicular right where you need it. Catching the train to Alpiglen and staying at Wengen would lop off about three hours and hundreds of vertical metres. This would enable us to have a more relaxed, enjoyable experience with ample time to revel in the landscape, take photos and stop for a leisurely lunch on this most pristine of sunny autumn days.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The first rays of sun kissed the tip of the snow-capped peaks as we set off, well-fuelled, after a substantial hikers’ breakfast. The train deposited us at Alpiglen where we began the climb to Kleine Scheidegg Pass, 2061m. The ascent was steep and steady but the unfolding of the landscape as the mighty Bernese triumvirate - the Eiger, Mönsch and Jungfrau - came into view, made every step rewarding. Bright sunshine, clear skies and mild temperatures added to the magic of the day.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">We crossed gurgling, gin-clear, ice-cold streams trickling down lush, green mountain pastures, and stopped to pat friendly cows with tinkling bells. They were so tame, they licked us with their long purple-black, sandpaper tongues.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Encounters with other hikers and bikers of different nationalities were more frequent than on the previous day but we had the well-formed trail largely to ourselves.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">I was last to “summit” the pass but the heady exhilaration of having made it to the top obliterated the pain in my calf muscles and thumping of my heart. The Aussies were good sports. They didn’t seem to mind waiting for me. With breath-taking alpine panoramas, there was no down-time for them – cameras and iPhones were working overtime.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Above Kleine Scheidegg, in the shadow of the 3970m Eiger, there’s a tiny museum that documents the triumphs and tragedies of past climbing expeditions on the treacherous Nordwand (North Face). The stories are chilling especially the horrific tale of the climber in 1936 who, despite valiant rescue attempts, froze to death on the end of his rope after his three companions perished. He was just metres from safety.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The Sphinx Terrace and observatory at the “Top of Europe” was visible high above us - building such a structure on a narrow ridge 3571m above sea level is a marvel of engineering. So too the cogwheel Jungfrau Railway train from Kleine Scheidegg to Europe’s highest railway station (3454m). Opened in 1912, the top 7km of the 9.4km of railway climbs through a tunnel hewn in the rock of the Eiger and Mönch, an audacious project that took 16 years to complete.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">As we sat in the sun gazing at the mountain gods, I felt a deep sense of reverence to be in their company.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">It was a quintessentially Swiss day – a sprinkling of fresh snow dusted the peaks, the edelweiss was in flower, and the alpine chalets were competing for the brightest window boxes and neatest firewood pile.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The Swiss stack their firewood under the eaves against the chalet walls or in purpose-built sheds. The pieces are always perfectly cut to exactly the same size and arranged with the utmost symmetry – like an artwork.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">“It’s a Swiss thing,” Birgit said, “a point of national pride. A messy wood pile would be shameful in Switzerland.”</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Descending from Kleine Scheidegg Pass, the rumble of an avalanche echoed around the mountains as a slab of ice broke free from a blue-white glacier and thundered down the valley, an awesome sight and sound from a safe distance.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Late in the season, a few of the mountain restaurants were already closed but the Bergrestaurant Allmend was open and served an excellent lunch platter. With only a short downward hike to Wengen ahead of us, a little schnapps was in order, “a Swiss tradition,” Birgit said.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">An easy downhill hike from the Allmend took us straight to the Silberhorn, our hotel in the centre of the delightful, car-free resort of Wengen.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The exquisite picture-postcard village, with its traditional wooden chalets and belle Ă©poque hotels, is perched on a sunny terrace 400 metres above the Lauterbrunnen Valley with stunning vistas of the Jungfrau and Schilthorn.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Famous for its World Cup Lauberhorn ski piste, Wengen also has excellent year-round, family-friendly activities for everyone including skiing, toboggan runs and winter and summer hiking trails. Mountain trains and cableways provide access to spectacular vantage points throughout the Jungfrau region.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">After a relaxing soak in the Silberhorn’s outside Jacuzzi, I managed to do justice to a delectable five-course feast at the hotel’s excellent restaurant - melon and prosciutto, lentil soup, salads, beef ragout and apricot tart... among many other choices.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">High altitude can sometimes disrupt sleep patterns but the exertion of the day and the larger- than-usual-dinner... and a glass or two of wine...  acted as a powerful sedative for me.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">I fell asleep looking at the map of the next day’s hike with the words “22km, 2000m ascent, 1400m descent, 9 hours” swirling around in my mind  â€“ but by now, I was confident I would manage whatever trimmed-down version Birgit had in store up for us.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: 400;">I knew I’d reach my destination, eventually, simply by placing “one foot after the other...”</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Read more about </span><a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/travel/international-travel/the-slow-coach"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Day One of the trek</span></a><span style="font-weight: 400;">.</span></p> <p><strong>Factbox</strong>:</p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">* The Bear Trek is part of the Via Alpina, a classic among long-distance hikes in Switzerland. The Via Alpina is a challenging mountain hike through the picture-perfect landscapes of Switzerland’s northern alps. A series of 20 daily stages takes hikers over 14 alpine passes and through a great variety of alpine terrain, villages, flora and fauna - a hiking enthusiast’s dream. Mountain restaurants and hotels provide meals and accommodation along the way. Eurotrek organised our accommodation and luggage transfers so we just carried a light day pack. </span></p> <p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Justine Tyerman was a guest of </span><a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/hiking"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Switzerland Tourism</span></a><span style="font-weight: 400;">, travelled courtesy of </span><a href="https://www.swiss.com/au/en"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Swiss Travel Pass</span></a><span style="font-weight: 400;"> and hiked in the </span><a href="https://jungfrauregion.swiss/en/winter/"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Jungfrau Region</span></a><span style="font-weight: 400;"> with </span><a href="https://www.eurotrek.ch/en"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Eurotrek.</span></a><span style="font-weight: 400;"> </span></em></p>

International Travel

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Go tell it to the mountain: A Switzerland adventure

<p>There aren’t many countries where you can sit in the spot where it all began. Relaxing in a small meadow on Lake Lucerne’s shores, however, I can make that claim for Switzerland. Here on this patch of grass on 1 August 1291, representatives of three small alpine valleys got together and signed a pact from which modern Switzerland emerged. August 1 is now a national holiday, and the meadow’s name, Field of RĂŒtli, resonates through Swiss history.</p> <p>True, I don’t find much happening in RĂŒtli these days, but it’s a fine place for a picnic and a good location to start an exploration of the Swiss heartland around Lake Lucerne, where history and scenery are equally dramatic. It’s also the spot to start my hunt for William Tell, the local lad who fought for freedom and became the world’s most famous Swiss.</p> <p>I arrive from Lucerne by steamer on an astonishingly scenic ride down its lake, embraced in mountains. My aim is to walk parts of the 36-kilometre Swiss Path, created for the 700th anniversary of Switzerland. With Swiss precision, the pathway is divided into segments representing its 26 cantons. As I walk, signs informs me when each canton joined the confederation, and gives a background to their history. It’s a lovely walk, the path sometimes talking to footbridges across streams and tunnels through cliffs. The landscape is surprisingly wild and rugged: quite the contrast to the bourgeois prettiness of downtown Lucerne.</p> <p>The following morning, a yellow postal bus deposits me back on the Swiss Path at Altdorf, a pleasant town of cobbled squares, painted houses and elaborate shop signs. A twist of bread marking a bakery directs me to a scrumptious almond croissant. Altdorf is the birthplace of William Tell, whose statue I find at the base of a medieval tower. The hero stands with his crossbow over his shoulder, his arm around his son. The monument marks the place where Tell was forced to shoot an apple off his son’s head by Gessler, an arrogant Hapsburg overlord.</p> <p>As I walk onwards, the valley narrows and the cliffs close in. Steep ups and downs challenge my lungs and knees. There’s only enough flat land to support a few villages under towering snow-capped peaks. It’s a rewarding hike to the Tell Chapel along the lake’s shore, which is painted with scenes from Tell’s life. It was from this spot that the hero supposedly leapt from a boat taking him to captivity. Tell fled into the forest and later shot Gessler dead with his crossbow, sparking Swiss independence.</p> <p>Nearby Schwyz sits high above Lake Lucerne in a wide valley of cherry orchards surrounded by snowcapped mountains. This now-quiet backwater canton gave its name and flag to Switzerland, and became famed for its mercenaries, who returned to build the impressive townhouses. The Town Hall is exuberant: cherubs hang over every window and frescoes depict historical battles.</p> <p>In contrast, the Federal Archives are kept in an ultra-modern, concrete building on the edge of town. I drop by to see the original Oath of Alliance signed at the Field of RĂŒtli. Other proclamations mark the adherence of new cantons to Switzerland, each becoming increasingly ornate with ribbons and wax seals. Few countries in the world have such delightful birth certificates.</p> <p>Back by Lake Lucerne, I follow the road to Gersau. Improbably, this was once the world’s smallest republic, independent from 1390 to 1817. At Vitznau I enjoy modern evidence of Switzerland’s fighting spirit at MĂŒhleflĂŒh Artillery Fortress, decommissioned in 1998. I enjoy a scramble through underground bunkers to inspect barracks, kitchens and artillery batteries beneath fake rocks.</p> <p>From here, legs weary, I take to the rack railway up Mt Rigi, and the views become ever more expansive around each dizzying bend. Lake Lucerne shrinks to a puddle and a 200-kilometre range of jagged snow peaks emerges on the horizon. Though less glamorous than more famous viewpoints near Lucerne, such as the James Bond movie setting, Mt Pilatus, Rigi provides a landscape to make my soul sing. Even the cows seem to pause in their chewing and bell-clanking to contemplate the scenery that plunges below their flowery pastures.</p> <p>At the western end of the lake I’m back to base at Lucerne, whose old town straddles the Reuss River and looks onto the yacht-studded lake and panorama of alpine peaks. In 1332, Lucerne became the first big town to join the alliance of alpine cantons. It’s crammed with old guild houses, baroque churches and ornamental fountains. I study a cartoon-like account of its history on the painted panels that line its famous symbol – a covered wooden bridge. One shows William Tell with his crossbow at the ready. The timeline shows me something that I’ve already gathered: Switzerland has a birthplace, a proper birth certificate, and a mythical founding father, providing a story to delight me.</p> <p><em>Written by Brian Johnston. Republished with permission of <a href="https://www.mydiscoveries.com.au/stories/switzerland-adventure-go-tell-it-to-the-mountain/">MyDiscoveries.</a> </em></p>

Cruising

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Enjoy a savoury onion and goat cheese tart

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">This puff pastry tart is perfect for when you want a savoury treat. Read more:</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>Serves:</strong> 4  </span></p> <p><strong>Ingredients:</strong></p> <ul> <li><span style="font-weight: 400;">1 sheet of defrosted frozen puff pastry</span></li> <li><span style="font-weight: 400;">4 red onions sliced</span></li> <li><span style="font-weight: 400;">2 tsp fresh thyme leaves </span></li> <li><span style="font-weight: 400;">200g crumbly goats cheese </span></li> <li><span style="font-weight: 400;">1 egg </span></li> <li><span style="font-weight: 400;">50g butter </span></li> </ul> <p><strong>Method:</strong></p> <ol> <li style="font-weight: 400;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Add butter to a medium saucepan over low heat. Once melted add sliced onions and cook gently for 45 minutes. Stir occasionally until soft and caramelised and set aside to cool.</span></li> <li style="font-weight: 400;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Preheat oven to 200</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">°C. Line a flat baking tray with baking paper and lay puff pastry on top. </span></li> <li style="font-weight: 400;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">With a knife score a line 2cm inside the edge to create a border around the pastry (do not cut through the pastry). With a fork prick the pastry all over inside the border. </span></li> <li style="font-weight: 400;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">Inside the border, spread caramelised onions and distribute half the goats cheese in chunks.</span></li> <li style="font-weight: 400;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">In a small bowl beat the egg and brush around the border of the pastry. Bake in the oven for 30 mins or until the pastry is golden brown.</span></li> <li style="font-weight: 400;"><span style="font-weight: 400;"> Remove from the oven, top with remaining goats cheese and sprinkle with fresh thyme leaves.</span></li> </ol> <p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Recipe courtesy of Australian Onions.</span></em></p>

Food & Wine

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The sad truth about Mount Everest

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">More than three tonnes of trash and at least four dead bodies have been collected from Mount Everest since mid-April, with plenty more to come, according to recent reports.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">During a campaign to clean the mountain, which began on April 14 in Nepal, decomposing bodies have been discovered among the rubbish, according to </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The Himalayan Times</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Officials expect that they will remove 11 tonnes of garbage by the end of the 45-day campaign period.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“Our goal is to extract as much waste as possible from Everest so as to restore glory to the mountain. Everest is not just the crown of the world but our pride,” Dandu Raj Ghimire, Nepal’s tourism director, said, according to </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The Hindu</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“Everything on Everest, other than rock and snow, will be brought back,” Tika Ram Gurung, secretary of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, said according to The Kathmandu Post. “The goal is to send the message that we should keep this mountain pollution free.”</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">According to ABC, 5,200 people have hiked to the top of Mount Everest and another 775 are planning to try it this year.</span></p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet" data-lang="en-gb"> <p dir="ltr">Several high altitude tourists, Sherpas ascending/descending at death zone of Mt <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/Everest?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#Everest</a> on 22 May, 2019. <a href="https://t.co/LzeFw6AErk">https://t.co/LzeFw6AErk</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/Everest2019?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#Everest2019</a> <a href="https://t.co/sNoXQsj00o">pic.twitter.com/sNoXQsj00o</a></p> — Everest Today (@EverestToday) <a href="https://twitter.com/EverestToday/status/1132197122646913024?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">25 May 2019</a></blockquote> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Because the trip is so challenging, some people meet a more harrowing fate, which has claimed the lives of almost 300 climbers. This is due to global warming, as the bodies are now coming to the surface.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“Because of global warming, the ice sheet and glaciers are fast melting, and the dead bodies that remained buried all these years are now becoming exposed,” Ang Tshering Sherpa, former president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, told the news outlet.</span></p>

Travel Trouble

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Goat's cheese toasts

<p>Indulge your guests with these tasty morsels, made by topping toasted slices of crusty baguette with slices of roma tomato and tangy goat's cheese, sprinkled with pine nuts and fresh herbs. Choose your favourite type of goat's cheese: delicate or strong in flavour, soft or firm in texture.</p> <p><strong>Makes:</strong> 16 toasts</p> <p><strong>Ingredients: </strong></p> <ul> <li>1 baguette, about 280g, cut into 2.5cm slices</li> <li>4 tablespoons passata</li> <li>2 tablespoons sun-dried tomato paste</li> <li>4 roma tomatoes, about 250g in total</li> <li>150g goat's cheese</li> <li>1Âœ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil</li> <li>1 tablespoon pine nuts,</li> <li>Few sprigs of fresh thyme or oregano, plus extra to garnish</li> </ul> <p><strong>Method: </strong></p> <ol> <li>Preheat the grill to moderate.</li> <li>Place the baguette slices on a rack in the grill pan and lightly toast on both sides.</li> <li>Mix together the passata and tomato paste and spread a little on top of each toast, covering the surface completely.</li> <li>Slice the tomatoes lengthwise, discarding a slim slice from the curved edges, to give 4 flat slices from each tomato.</li> <li>Lay a slice of tomato on top of each toast.</li> <li>Place 1 small slice of firm goat's cheese or about 1 teaspoon of soft goat's cheese on top of each tomato slice, and drizzle over a little oil.</li> <li>Scatter on a few pine nuts and thyme or oregano leaves.</li> <li>Grill for 4-5 minutes, or until the cheese is beginning to melt and the pine nuts are golden.</li> <li>Serve the toasts hot, garnished with sprigs of thyme or oregano.</li> </ol> <p><em>This article first appeared in <span><a href="http://www.readersdigest.com.au/recipes/goats-cheese-toasts">Reader’s Digest</a></span>. For more of what you love from the world’s best-loved magazine, <span><a href="http://readersdigest.innovations.com.au/c/readersdigestsubscribe?utm_source=readersdigest&amp;utm_campaign=RDSUB&amp;utm_medium=display&amp;keycode=WRA85S">here’s our best subscription offer</a></span>.</em></p> <p><img style="width: 100px !important; height: 100px !important;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7820640/1.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/f30947086c8e47b89cb076eb5bb9b3e2" /></p>

Food & Wine

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The sweet way Duchess Meghan honoured Prince Charles with her jewellery

<p>Duchess Meghan has made a habit of wearing <a rel="noopener" href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/news/news/the-hidden-messages-behind-duchess-megan-s-royal-tour-jewellery" target="_blank">jewellery with special meaning</a> throughout her royal tour with husband Prince Harry.</p> <p>Now, the latest symbolism from her travelling collection has been revealed, and is a very sweet tribute to her father-in-law Prince Charles. The 37-year-old, well known for wearing sustainable jewellery, was snapped in Fiji wearing two gold bracelets connected to a charity started by him, Turquoise Mountain, reports <a rel="noopener" href="https://people.com/royals/meghan-markle-pippa-small-jewelry-prince-charles/" target="_blank"><em>People</em></a>.</p> <p>Worn during a welcome ceremony to Fiji and again at the closing ceremony of the Invictus Games in Sydney, they were made by artisans who are members of the charity.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img style="width: 500px; height:281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821673/meghan-and-harry-bracelet-close-up-main.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/96a7fa4a45834073a3ba5a16289d177b" /></p> <p>The organisation works across Afghanistan, Myanmar and Saudi Arabia, with the aim to “preserve and regenerate historic areas and communities with a rich cultural heritage and to revive traditional crafts, to create jobs, skills and a renewed sense of pride,” according to its <a rel="noopener" href="https://turquoisemountain.org/" target="_blank">website</a>.</p> <p>Established in 2006 by the Prince of Wales, the foundation has trained more than 6000 artisans.</p> <p>The gold bracelets – Oshna and Omeen bangles, valued at $AU198 and $269 respectively – are part of jeweller Pippa Small’s Turquoise Mountain Collection with the British ethical designer a favourite of Duchess Meghan’s.</p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height: 281.25px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7821671/megan-close-up-bangle.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/386eac233cbe4d19ac266dbd4ea7afcc" /></p> <p>Awarded an MBE by Queen Elizabeth in 2013 for her ethical jewellery and charity work, Small works with the Turquoise Mountain foundation in Afghanistan and Burma training and employing artisans to promote traditional skills, and hopes to introduce Syrian refugees to the program.</p> <p>“It creates jobs and it gives people a sense of pride and a sense of identity,” Small said of Turquoise Mountain in an interview with <em>People</em>.</p> <p>“I’m so thrilled that she was wearing those bangles,” she said. “Even though they were just simple bangles — they look incredibly chic on her of course — but it’s what’s behind them that is so utterly amazing.”</p> <p>This isn’t the first time the Duchess of Sussex has paid tribute to Prince Harry’s father on the current royal tour. According to <a rel="noopener" href="https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/jewelry-and-watches/a24109850/meghan-markle-prince-charles-tennis-bracelet/" target="_blank"><em>Town &amp; Country</em></a>, she wore a diamond tennis bracelet, a gift from Prince Charles, when she and her husband arrived in Fiji.</p>

Beauty & Style

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Experiencing mountain magic in Switzerland’s Tschiertschen

<p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em><strong>Travel writer Justine Tyerman learns an important lesson in the little alpine village of Tschiertschen, Switzerland.</strong></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><strong>Tall stories</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The Swiss don't set out to tell tall tales... but they do it, unintentionally, all the time. Especially the alpine folk. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Here’s a perfect example:</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">‘How long does it take to reach this lake?’ I asked, pointing at the blue dot below the mountain peak on the wanderweg (hiking) map.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">‘About two and three quarter hours,’ replied Heidi, the delightful receptionist at the Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa in the exquisite little alpine village of Tschiertschen, the correct pronunciation of which still eludes me.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The best I could manage was ‘tear-chin’ which seemed to get a flicker of recognition and an amused smile from the locals.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">‘Ok, that sounds manageable. We'll do that tomorrow,’ I said as we checked into the four-star resort high in the magnificent BĂŒndner Alps of Switzerland.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="428" height="285" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Alpina-Tschiertschen-spa.jpg" alt="Alpina Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14158 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>The Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa. Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">‘You can hike an extra 45 minutes from the lake up to a restaurant on the top of Hörnli mountain for lunch if you like,’ Heidi added helpfully. â€˜Or take the gondola from Arosa.’  </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">‘Three and a half hours to the top?’ I replied. ‘And lunch at a nice restaurant? We'll hike up there, no trouble. We're Kiwis (New Zealanders). We don’t need to take a gondola.’</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The prospect of a restaurant at the top of the mountain intrigued us. When hiking in New Zealand, we always joke about there being a cafe or lodge around the next corner . . . but there isn't. The summits of our highest mountains are devoid of any habitation. Except for at our ski resorts. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">With the next day all sorted, we were escorted to our salubrious suite where we did a quick change and embarked on Heidi’s ‘one-hour’ familiarisation hike. That was a real eye-opener and the first indication of the Swiss tendency to seriously under-estimate hiking times. The ‘easy’ amble turned out to be a strenuous two and a half hours of puffing uphill. But the landscape was so beautiful, we were not complaining. We walked through autumn forests, past pretty waterfalls and meadows of friendly cows playing ding dong songs on their bells as they ambled around the hillsides. The day was eye-wateringly clear, crisp and sunny - perfect conditions for hiking – and the views of the mountains and valley were glorious. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="447" height="299" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-waterfall.jpg" alt="Waterfall in Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14183 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Little waterfall in Tschiertschen. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Not only did we love every second of the hike, it was also an important learning curve for us – we discovered the Swiss who live in the mountains are super-fit and acclimatised to the high altitude. They sprint up steep mountains as if they are mere hillocks. We realised that any estimated hiking time from a Swiss alpine-dweller needed to be viewed with the utmost scepticism. That’s what I mean when I say they tell tall tales . . . without intending to.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Another thing we learned was that most Swiss are excellent amateur tour guides. They are so proud and knowledgeable about their country, they are eager to share their favourite hikes and must-sees with overseas visitors. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">This happens at railway stations, bus stops, restaurants . .  . anywhere there is a map of mountains and hiking trails. Which is everywhere in this abundantly-blessed country crowded with peaks and crisscrossed with tracks. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Having learned these invaluable lessons early on in our alpine holiday, henceforth we roughly doubled all hiking times and managed splendidly. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="446" height="297" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/cow-with-bell.jpg" alt="Cow" class="size-full wp-image-14194 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Cows playing ding dong songs on their bells. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Back at the Alpina, we headed for a soak in the hot pool and then had drinks on our balcony as the sun set. It was magic. I was so happy, I was tempted to yodel. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><strong>Shared Asian dinner</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">That evening, we were treated to a shared Asian dinner prepared by the Alpina’s highly-talented Chinese chef Tony Leung. We dined in the elegant La Belle Époque restaurant, the hotel’s historic dining room with its original parquet floor and chandeliers. As visitors from New Zealand, it was most enjoyable for us to be seated at a round table with a group of friendly Swiss folk. A 17-year-old boy, who was dining with his grandparents, did a fine job of translating for everyone. His grandparents live in Tschiertschen and they told us about the wonderful parties and balls that were held in that very dining room when they were young. They also gave us many tips about where to hike.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="462" height="308" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Justine-Chris-Tyerman-Alpina-Tschiertschen-restaurant.jpg" alt="Justine and Chris Tyerman" class="size-full wp-image-14172 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Justine and Chris enjoying their dinner. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Tony’s Asian dishes were delicious and our charming waiters Eran and Jamina looked after us exceedingly well. On the menu were chicken soup with glass noodles, Sze-chuan beef, Thai chicken curry, sweet and sour shrimps, Asian vegetables with tofu, wild rice and fried rice noodles with vegetables, and lychees and icecream for dessert. I never tire of those fresh Asian flavours. The wines were delectable too. We were thoroughly spoilt that night.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">We slept with starlight shining through the skylight above our bed, and awoke to the sound of tinkling cowbells and church bells. I wrapped myself in a warm blanket and opened the doors to our balcony to watch the sunrise. Nowhere is the freshness of the new day so sweet as in the mountains. The sun was slow to show itself on our side of the valley, sliding tantalisingly just below the ridge, casting hazy golden beams and long shadows across the little village. Suddenly, Tschiertschen was illuminated in dazzling light and the colours were blindingly bright. The church spire shone in the morning sun and the pastures were vividly green and as smooth as an iced cake. How do they mow the grass so beautifully on such steep slopes, I wondered.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="443" height="295" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-sunlight.jpg" alt="Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14181 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Tschiertschen in the sunlight. Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Breakfast at the Alpina was a gastronomic highlight with a delicious array of mueslis, fresh fruit, yoghurts, cheese, cold meats, salads, juices and the best bread and pastries I've ever tasted. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Having doubled Heidi’s hiking estimate, we abandoned our plans to hike to the top of Hörnli and decided to catch the train to Arosa and take the gondola to the restaurant for lunch.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Rather than backtracking by bus to Chur, we walked down to the train station at St Peter Molinis. Even that turned out to be much further than anticipated with a steep climb up to the station at the end but the hike was well worth the effort. En route, we came across an old sawmill operated by hydropower from the Ruchtobel River, spotted wild deer in the forest and walked through pastures with cows so tame they were happy to be patted. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">At the station, we met a young woman who explained that at St Peter Molinis, trains only stop if you push a button. A vital piece of information. She also told us all her favourite places to hike. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The train trip was stunning - deep gorges, turquoise rivers, power stations and high viaducts - and the lakeside village of Arosa was like a jewel surrounded by a necklace of magnificent mountains. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="450" height="600" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Langwies-viaduct.jpg" alt="Viaduct" class="size-full wp-image-14174 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Langwies viaduct on the way to Arosa. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="454" height="303" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Arosa-automn.jpg" alt="Arosa Obersee lake" class="size-full wp-image-14160 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Arosa and its Obersee lake. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">We took the gondola to the top of Hörnli where there were alps as far as the eye could see. The 360 degree panorama was staggering, the horizon bristling with mountains. A telescope told us the names of all the peaks and ranges from Zermatt to St Moritz and far beyond.  </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">We basked in warm autumn sun while lunching and drinking chilled rosĂ© at the splendid restaurant. We celebrated life and how privileged we were to be in such a beautiful part of the world.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="447" height="298" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Hoernli-top.jpg" alt="Hörnli" class="size-full wp-image-14171 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Top of the Hörnli. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">As we walked back down the mountain track, there were patches of snow where the snowmakers had been hard at work, laying down a base for the coming ski season.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The return trip to Chur by train and Post Auto bus to Tschiertschen was just as jaw-dropping the second time around. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Arriving back at the Alpina, the staff were so friendly, it felt like we were coming home to family. After relaxing in the sauna and drinks in the bar, we dined in the scenic Panorama Restaurant overlooking the valley and mountains. With a strong penchant for spicy cuisine, we had another of Tony’s fabulous Asian dishes, Thai curry with cod and jasmin rice, served with a flourish by Eran who again looked after us splendidly. There was even a ‘Welcome Tyerman family’ heart-shaped stone on our table.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">High above us on the dark horizon, we could see the twinkling lights of the restaurant at the top of Hörnli where we had lunch. We’ll hike up there one day, we promised ourselves. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="429" height="286" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/hoernli-restaurant.jpg" alt="Hörnli" class="size-full wp-image-14170 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2"><em>The Hörnli restaurant. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2"><strong>The Alpina Hotel: history</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The Alpina Hotel, established in 1897, has a long and illustrious history. The first holiday-makers arrived in Tschiertschen in the summer of 1892, even before there was a road link to Chur. The road was opened three years later setting the scene for the idyllic mountain village with its sunny, sheltered location to become a high-altitude resort.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Soon after, Christian Hold of Arosa built the 40-bed Alpina Hotel on an elevated terrace above the village. Originally, the building had only one row of balconies but the hotel was so popular that in 1913, Hold added 20 more beds and a second row of balconies. From 1897 right through until the late 1970s, the Alpina’s La Belle Époque dining room was famous for its elegant balls and parties.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">In the years that followed, the Alpina saw a series of tenants and by 1937, it had central heating and running water on all floors. During WW2, the hotel stood empty for a while, until it was used as a detention camp and refugee home in 1944-45.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">In December 1946, chef Adam Stocker bought the Alpina from Hold and in 1952, the installation of the first ski lift launched Tschiertschen as a winter holiday destination. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Stocker and his wife Barbara ran the Alpina until 1973 when they passed the lease and then ownership on to their son Andreas and his wife Esther. They undertook further improvements to the hotel in 1984-85.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">In 2001 Marina Sciamanna took over the hotel and ran it as a friends-of-nature house for cost-conscious Dutch guests. In 2008, she handed over management to her son-in-law, Tobias Alderliesten who steadily increased the number of bookings every year.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The hotel then came to the attention of Malaysian entrepreneur Ah Khing Teo who purchased it in April 2013. He commissioned architects and engineers to carefully restore the historic building in the style of the historic hotel. During the extensive renovation and modernisation process from 2014-15, spa facilities were added on the ground floor.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Upon reopening in December 2015, the four-star Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa has reassumed its rightful place in the tourist landscape of the Grisons. It is once again THE place to stay on the south side of the Schanfigg Valley.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><strong>The Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa today</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">High on an elevated terrace above the village, the white, five-storey Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa with its gables and traditional balconies is an impressive landmark. The renovated hotel now offers 27 rooms and suites, two restaurants, stylish wine and cocktail bars, a cigar lounge, library and spa zone.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="429" height="286" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Alpina-Tschiertschen-hotel.jpg" alt="Alpina Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14155 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Our bright, sunny balcony suite on the top floor of the hotel had a large, super-comfortable bed with fluffy down duvets and soft pillows, a bathroom with a separate toilet, shower enclosure and vanity well-stocked with the Alpina’s own fragrant toiletries, a skylight window, flat screen TV, and free wifi.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">I loved the warm hues of the pine walls and oak floors. But my favourite place was the balcony. I was spellbound by the stunning view of the Schanfigg Valley, the magnificent BĂŒndner Alps and the exquisite little village of Tschiertschen with its narrow streets, sun-blackened chalets and barns and graceful stone church. Nearby was the bottom station of the ski-lift. I could just picture the scene in winter with the landscape blanketed in glistening white snow.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="430" height="286" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-village.jpg" alt="Village of Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14182 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Village of Tschiertschen. <em><em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">A welcome card and fresh fruit from managers Michael and Marlies Gehring was a thoughtful touch along with a choice of pillows – on the menu were cherry stone, millet, pinewood, feathers or synthetic fibre balls. I enjoyed reading Marlies’ tips of the day especially her advice on how to sleep better and the health benefits of yoghurt, linseed oil and drinking lots of water.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">As a historophile, it was heart-warming to see how well the herringbone parquet floor, chandeliers, wood panelling and plastered ceilings of the Alpina’s La Belle Époque dining room have been restored. Even the mirror above the piano is in the same position as it was in 1897, perfectly placed to reflect the hands of the pianist.  </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The Panorama Restaurant has also been renovated in keeping with the Golden Era of the 1920s. The outside terrace has spectacular views of the valley and mountains.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The cosy Alpina Bar has original wood panelled walls and floors while an intimate wine bar, the AlpinaVinothek, has been installed in the old vaulted cellars. There’s also a library and cigar lounge.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The outstanding new Shan Spa (Shan is Chinese for ‘mountain nature’) offers pure relaxation, pampering and indulgence, the perfect place to relax, destress and unwind. Facilities include an outdoor Jacuzzi, a smorgasbord of saunas, a Kneipp basin and a range of relaxing massages, beauty treatments and Asian health applications.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">My husband Chris is a sauna fan so he sampled all four. The Finnish sauna has hot, dry air to enhance circulation and stimulate the blood supply to your muscles; the eucalyptus of the steam bath benefits the respiratory system, skin and hair; the bio-sauna offers essential herbal aromas to purify and warmth to revitalise the body; and the infra-red sauna is especially recommended for muscle spasms, joint pain, general fatigue and for those who do not tolerate intense heat and high humidity in a sauna. He emerged refreshed, rejuvenated and re-energised.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">A highlight for me was the unique sensory shower experience of the Via Mala thunderstorm path with hot and cold mist, a storm with huge rain drops, bird song and stars, and a deluge of hot water with cool mist. I did it several times. It was quite addictive.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">I also enjoyed the Kneipp basin where I sat on a warm stone bench and trod water in a stone tub which stimulated my circulation and arterial blood supply. Apparently it’s a great way to prevent varicose veins so I’ll need to keep coming back.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">But at the end of a day in the mountains, I loved nothing better than lying in the warmth of the Jacuzzi, relaxing on the bubble lounger, and breathing in the fresh, sweet alpine air.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><strong>Getting to Tschiertschen</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Tschiertschen (1340 metres above sea level, population 240) may look and feel delightfully remote and tranquil but it’s only 25 minutes by regular Post Auto bus service from Chur and one hour and 45 minutes from Zurich Airport.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">We caught an early train from Zurich and sped through countryside that looked like a never-ending series of postcards - flickering past my eyes like the frames of an old-fashioned movie, only in glorious technicolour.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">When we disembarked at Chur, there was our Post Auto bus, clearly marked Tschiertschen, pulling into the station at precisely the time it was scheduled. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="433" height="289" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-welcome.jpg" alt="Welcome" class="size-full wp-image-14184 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Tschiertschen welcomes its visitors. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">We headed 10km (25 minutes) up a steep, windy mountain road to a village straight from a Swiss Tourism brochure. I had to blink several times to make sure I wasn't hallucinating. Tschiertschen is a quintessential tiny Swiss alpine village built on a mountainside, untouched by commercial tourism. The historic Alpina Mountain Resort and Spa, one of only two hotels in Tschiertschen, sat proudly above the village bathed in sunshine. I fell in love with the place in an instant. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The friendly driver deposited us at the bus stop from where we planned to walk to the Alpina. It looked like a short distance on the map but it was straight uphill so we got all our exercise in one strenuous hit, lugging our cases up the steep main street. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Had we phoned, the hotel's courtesy car would have collected us, ‘No problem,’ said Heidi as we arrived out of breath at reception where cool drinks and alpine nut cake awaited us. </p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><strong>So much to offer</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2"><strong>Summer</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2">In the summer, Tschiertschen is a hiking paradise, the ideal starting point for many beautiful day and half-day excursions. The 70km network of trails takes walkers through unspoilt natural landscapes devoid of man-made interference like tar-sealed roads, cable cars and snow cannons which is increasingly rare these days.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2"><img width="468" height="312" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-Alpina-hotel.jpg" alt="Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14179 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2"><em>Tschiertschen and its Alpina Mountain Resort. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2">Tschiertschen is the first stop on the famous six-day Schanfigger Höhenweg, described as ‘the most beautiful mountain hiking path in GraubĂŒnden’.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">The village is also the perfect base for mountain bikers. And for those who need an extra boost uphill, the Alpina has the latest, greatest, off-road, cross-country e-bikes for their guests’ use, the ‘flitzerli MONSTER eBike’.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2">GraubĂŒnden’s most beautiful tennis court is located in Tschiertschen, directly behind the Alpina Hotel. Guests play for free with rackets and balls provided.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2"><strong>Winter</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2">Winter in Tschiertschen is a dream come true for skiers and snowboarders seeking to escape the crowded slopes of Switzerland’s famous ski resorts. There’s 32km of excellently-prepared pistes of all degrees of difficulty, 100 percent natural snow, no crowds, no queuing for the modern four-seater chairlifts and ski lifts and no loud music blasting across the slopes. Just beautifully diverse downhill runs through forests and gullies with terrain to suit everyone from beginners and families to experts like local resident and three-time world champion ski acrobat Mia Engi. There’s also plenty of challenging terrain for free-riders, powder hounds and off-piste skiers.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2"><img width="445" height="298" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Tschiertschen-winter.jpg" alt="Winter in Tschiertschen" class="size-full wp-image-14196 no-display lazyloaded appear" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2"><em>Winter in Tschiertschen must be wonderful. Image credit: Alpina Tschiertschen</em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2">The ski school meeting point is right behind the Alpina Hotel and the valley station of the lift can be reached in just one minute. There’s also a free ski bus from the village car park to the bottom of the chairlift.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">And if you are looking for a new thrill on the snow, the Alpina will lend you a gögel, a mono-ski/toboggan combo.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Organised winter events include guest ski races, night skiing with torches, guided ski tours and ski safaris, gourmet evenings and plays, exhibitions, readings and chamber music concerts.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2"><strong>Wine and food</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p2">The BĂŒndner Herrschaft area, often called the ‘Burgundy of Switzerland’, ranks among the best regions for red wine north of the Alps. The vineyards where 45 grape varieties flourish in warm conditions, are just 20 minutes by car from Tschiertschen. The picturesque wine-growing villages of FlĂ€sch, Maienfeld, Jenins and Malans are worth visiting at any time of the year. Winemakers mature their finest wines in oak barrels and secure top international awards with them.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Tschiertschen is famous for its high-quality ‘AlpenHirt’, dried beef made from cattle grazing high alpine pastures. The meat is marinated in a mixture of red wine, natural salt and herbs and left to dry in the mountain air for eight to 16 weeks rather than being preserved in pickling salt with additives in a smoke chamber.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Guests can also sample richly flavoursome Alp Farur cheese.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Tschiertschen holds a Farmers’ Market every Saturday afternoon selling alpine cheese, alpine butter, eggs, meat, GraubĂŒnden nut gateaux, home-made GraubĂŒnden pear bread, jams, liqueurs and aperitif platters directly from the local farmers’ wives.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><strong>Chur</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1">Just 20 minutes away from Tschiertschen on the Post Auto bus, lies the city of Chur (population 34,880), the capital of the eastern Switzerland canton of GraubĂŒnden/Grisons. Chur boasts a car-free medieval Old Town, the wonderfully restored 13th-century, three-naved Cathedral of the Assumption in the courtyard of Bishop’s Palace, the GraubĂŒnden Museum of Fine Arts, the Rhaetian Museum, GraubĂŒnden Natural History Museum, art galleries and theatres with classical and jazz concerts . . . not to mention excellent shopping.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><img width="466" height="310" src="https://travelmemo-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/historic-auto-bus.jpg" alt="Historic auto bus" class="size-full wp-image-14168 no-display appear lazyloaded" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p> <p style="text-align: center;" class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>Historic Post Auto Bus. <em>Image credit: Justine Tyerman</em></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><strong>Unique, unspoiled, authentic</strong></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-msonormal">Tschiertschen has a wealth of unique natural attributes. A world away from the glitz and glamour of Switzerland’s world-famous resorts, the village offers a tranquil, close-to-nature, unspoiled, authentic, alpine experience, a welcome respite from the stressful, high-pressure lives that many people lead in the cities these days.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-msonormal">But comfort is not compromised. The Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa pampers you with romance, history, gourmet cuisine, fine wine, spa facilities, salubrious suites and impeccable service. Unique, unspoiled, authentic . . . go there before the secret is discovered.</p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>* The Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa is a member of the Romantik Hotels &amp; Restaurants International, a group of more than 200 establishments in 10 European countries. ‘The distinguishing characteristics of tradition, history, quality and warm hospitality combined with excellent cuisine, authentic local roots and tangible history unite the owner-run hotels, creating an exclusive collection to delight even the most discerning guests.’</em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>* The Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa is included in the Guide Michelin’s list of the best hotels in Switzerland.</em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m7149461699139407776p1"><em>* Justine and Chris Tyerman stayed at the Alpina Mountain Resort &amp; Spa, Tschiertschen, Switzerland:<a href="http://www.the-alpina.com/" target="_blank">www.the-alpina.com</a></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m-8124531875553392154gmail-m-2224420815876639875gmail-m3141362298482917753gmail-msonormal"><em>* Switzerland Tourism: <a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/" target="_blank">www.MySwitzerland.com</a></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m-8124531875553392154gmail-m-2224420815876639875gmail-m3141362298482917753gmail-msonospacing"><em>* Swiss Travel Pass: <a href="http://www.myswitzerland.com/rail" target="_blank">www.MySwitzerland.com/rail</a></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8124531875553392154gmail-m-2224420815876639875gmail-m3141362298482917753gmail-msonospacing"><em>* Rail Europe: <a href="http://www.raileurope.com.au/" target="_blank">www.raileurope.com.au</a> / <a href="http://www.raileurope.co.nz/" target="_blank">www.raileurope.co.nz</a></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m-8124531875553392154gmail-m-2224420815876639875gmail-m3141362298482917753gmail-msonospacing"><em>* Swiss International Air Lines: <a href="http://www.swiss.com/ch/en" target="_blank">www.swiss.com/ch/en</a></em></p> <p class="gmail-m-8066362911893866036m6731448975564046718gmail-m6930114217473634187gmail-m-8124531875553392154gmail-m-2224420815876639875gmail-m3141362298482917753gmail-msonospacing"><em>* Republished with the permission of <a href="http://travelmemo.com/" target="_blank">Travelmemo.com</a> </em></p>

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