Retirees win hearts on epic American road trip
<p>Their great American adventure was off to a rough start. In June, Chen Aiwu, 64, and her husband, Wang Dongsheng, 66, landed in Los Angeles. It was nearly midnight. They could barely communicate. And they were faced with a classic holiday conundrum: a rental car up-sell.</p>
<p>No, they did not want more insurance. No, they did not need a bigger car.</p>
<p>"I just kept saying 'No,' " Chen remembered, "the only English word I know."</p>
<p>More than four hours later, with help from a Chinese speaker who popped by, the pensioners set off on a 19-day, 7800km drive.</p>
<p>The journey took them from coastal California to Las Vegas, Yosemite, Yellowstone and back, testing their patience and teaching them about a people and place that once felt infinitely distant.</p>
<p>They were frustrated by US infrastructure, intrigued by American families, and touched, again and again, by the kindness of people they met.</p>
<p>Upon their return - to their surprise - they were greeted as heroes, profiled in state media and lauded online. "Couple prove age no barrier to globe-trotting," a China Daily headline said.</p>
<p>"What a great couple!" wrote a user on Weibo, the Chinese social media site. "I wish I could be like them when I'm old!"</p>
<p>In China, where rising incomes are fuelling an extraordinary travel boom, tales of Chinese tourists behaving badly overseas are a fixture.</p>
<p>There was the teen who scrawled his name on a 3500-year-old Egyptian relic, the passenger who threw hot water on a flight attendant, and countless airport and in-flight brawls.</p>
<p>The vast majority of China's more than 100 million outbound tourists are not like this. There are over-privileged plutocrats, sure. But there are many more weary office workers and well-meaning first-timers taking a chance on something new.</p>
<p>Having survived the tumult of the Cultural Revolution, raised a family, struggled and saved, Chen and Wang set out, on their own, to discover America.</p>
<p>To the delight of many, they did.</p>
<p>Before she landed, Chen was not sure what to think about the United States. The parks looked nice in pictures. But did everyone have a gun?</p>
<p>Chen comes from a different world. Born in 1952, she came of age with the People's Republic, leaving school after the seventh grade and toiling in the countryside as one of Mao Zedong's "sent-down youth."</p>
<p>She spent two years pulling a night-soil cart before being assigned to drive a factory bus. Later, she drove a U.S.-made vehicle and tried to imagine what a nation "on wheels" was like.</p>
<p>"Back then I said to myself, 'One day I'm going to travel to your country,' " she said.</p>
<p>Chen and Wang raised two children and saved as much as possible. In 2012, they bought their first car, and the next year, despite serious health problems, took a not-so-rookie road-trip across mountainous Tibet.</p>
<p><img width="496" height="285" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/28152/retirees-road-trip-in-text-one_496x285.jpg" alt="Retirees -Road -Trip -In -Text -One" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p>
<p>The United States would be tougher. For Chen and Wang, like many Chinese tourists, traveling abroad requires logistical prowess.</p>
<p>Rental contracts and street signs are only the beginning. (English speakers: Imagine filling out a customs form written entirely in Chinese.)</p>
<p>Chen and Wang started planning months in advance, scouring travel blogs for tips and booking their flights, rental car, SIM cards and navigation system online.</p>
<p>Wang, who cannot drive, was put in charge of directions. With the help of an online dictionary, he translated the names of all the places they hoped to visit -- "Page, Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bay" - and wrote the English and Chinese words side-by-side on a sheet of paper. (It's Horseshoe Bend, but they got there anyway.)</p>
<p>"How much?" he wrote below. "Where is the bathroom?"</p>
<p>They wanted to keep their costs down and were worried about unfamiliar food, so they decided to pack their own rice cooker - and a hearty side of pickled vegetables - to be safe.</p>
<p>With water from supermarkets and regular fast food stops, they got by. "In China, I never go to McDonald's, because it's foreign food, but once I was actually abroad, of course I wanted to try," Chen said. (Plus, you can charge your phone there.)</p>
<p>Eating went OK, most of the time, but finding hotels proved tough - so tough that they started sleeping in the car.</p>
<p><img width="496" height="280" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/28151/retirees-road-trip-in-text-two_496x280.jpg" alt="Retirees -Road -Trip -In -Text -Two" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"/></p>
<p>The morning they arrived in Las Vegas, it took them five hours to find the motel they had booked online. Later, driving from Vegas to Flagstaff, they found themselves at a dead end deep in the mountains as night settled in and their navigation system faltered.</p>
<p>They were saved, in the end, by two 60-something Americans in a Chevy. Chen pointed to the GPS, closed her eyes, and gestured to show that the navigation system was blind.</p>
<p>The Americans tried offering directions in English but quickly saw that the couple could not follow and led the way by car.</p>
<p>"They took us to the gate of the hotel, but then they just waved and left. We didn't even have a chance to say 'Thank you,' " she said.</p>
<p>"Our only regret on the journey was not having the opportunity to say 'Thank you' and take a photo with those who helped us. We were afraid we might offend them by asking to take a picture together."</p>
<p>As surprising as helpful strangers was the fact that Americans did not treat the couple as strangers at all.</p>
<p>"If we spot a foreigner in China, people surround them and look. But people treated us normally," Chen said.</p>
<p>"One morning, I went to a supermarket, a stranger smiled and said 'Good morning' to me. Only later did I learn what it means."</p>
<p>Other oddities, per Chen: child care. In China, grandparents spend a lot of time caring for grandchildren. In the United States, Chen observed, it was parents chasing children around.</p>
<p>And the children are quite independent, she observed. One day at McDonald's, she saw a toddler spill his juice and proceed, unprompted and unassisted, to clean it up. "No adult told him to do that. He just did it himself."</p>
<p>Chen was wowed by U.S. rule-following - "They stop for pedestrians!" - but unimpressed by lacklustre in-car navigation and the lack of fast, reliable mobile service.</p>
<p>In Yellowstone Park, she struggled to post pictures to WeChat, the Chinese messaging service. "The U.S. is such a superpower, how can they not have good networks?" she asked.</p>
<p>It struck her that what Chinese and U.S. tourists shared was an appreciation for what wildness remains.</p>
<p>At Monument Valley, Utah, they joined U.S. tourists snapping pictures of the Colorado Plateau's landmark buttes. Wang took so many photographs that his fingers hurt. "It was a fairy tale," Chen said.</p>
<p>On the coast, they watched squirrels beg for food and giggled at portly sea lions.</p>
<p>"They were making sounds like 'goo, goo, goo.' Some were playing with sand. I saw their chubby bodies worming about on the beach," she said.</p>
<p>Standing at the edge of the Pacific, looking toward home, Chen was glad she had made the trip.</p>
<p>"I didn't know where the U.S. was before. I thought it is a far away place," she was thinking.</p>
<p>"Now that I'm here, I feel we are actually very close."</p>
<p>Have you ever been on a road trip? How was it? Let us know in the comments section.</p>
<p><em>Written by Xu Yangjingjing and Emily Rauhala. First appeared on <a href="http://Stuff.co.nz" target="_blank"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Stuff.co.nz</span></strong></a>.</em></p>
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