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Is white rice bad for me? Can I make it lower GI or healthier?

<p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/emma-beckett-22673">Emma Beckett</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/unsw-sydney-1414">UNSW Sydney</a></em></p> <p>Rice is a <a href="http://www.ipni.net/publication/bci.nsf/0/42A2EA40E95CBD1385257BBA006531E9/$FILE/Better%20Crops%20International%202002-3%20p03.pdf">culinary staple</a> in Australia and around the world.</p> <p>It might seem like a given that brown rice is healthier than white and official <a href="https://www.eatforhealth.gov.au/eating-well/healthy-recipes/recipe-modification-tips">public health resources</a> often recommend brown rice instead of white as a “healthy swap”.</p> <p>But <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34441728/">Australians definitely prefer white rice</a> over brown. So, what’s the difference, and what do we need to know when choosing rice?</p> <h2>What makes rice white or brown?</h2> <p>Rice “grains” are technically seeds. A complete, whole rice seed is called a “paddy”, which has <a href="https://www.fao.org/4/t0567e/t0567e07.htm">multiple parts</a>:</p> <ol> <li>the “hull” is the hard outer layer which protects the seed</li> <li>the “bran”, which is a softer protective layer containing the seed coat</li> <li>the “germ” or the embryo, which is the part of the seed that would develop into a new plant if was germinated</li> <li>the “endosperm”, which makes up most of the seed and is essentially the store of nutrients that feeds the developing plant as a seed grows into a plant.</li> </ol> <p>Rice needs to be <a href="https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/87559128509540778">processed</a> for humans to eat it.</p> <p>Along with cleaning and drying, the hard hulls are removed since we can’t digest them. This is how <a href="https://ift.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/1541-4337.12449">brown rice is made</a>, with the other three parts of the rice remaining intact. This means brown rice is regarded as a “wholegrain”.</p> <p>White rice, however, is a “refined” grain, as it is <a href="https://ift.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/1541-4337.12449">further polished</a> to remove the bran and germ, leaving just the endosperm. This is a mechanical and not a chemical process.</p> <h2>What’s the difference, nutritionally?</h2> <p>Keeping the bran and the germ means <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/cche.10322">brown rice has more</a> magnesium, phosphorus, potassium B vitamins (niacin, folate, riboflavin and pyridoxine), iron, zinc and fibre.</p> <p>The germ and the bran also contain more bioactives (compounds in foods that aren’t essential nutrients but have health benefits), like <a href="https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/28/2/532#:%7E:text=Brown%20rice%20(BR)%20is%20obtained,and%20phenolic%20compounds%20%5B3%5D.">oryzanols and phenolic compounds</a> which have antioxidant effects.</p> <p>But that doesn’t mean white rice is just empty calories. It <a href="https://www.glnc.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/GLNC_Rice-factsheet_WEB.pdf">still contains</a> vitamins, minerals and some fibre, and is low in fat and salt, and is naturally gluten-free.</p> <p>White and brown rice actually have <a href="https://ift.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/1541-4337.12449">similar</a> amounts of calories (or kilojoules) and total carbohydrates.</p> <p>There are studies that show eating more white rice is linked to <a href="https://diabetesjournals.org/care/article/43/11/2625/35820/A-Global-Perspective-on-White-Rice-Consumption-and">a higher risk</a> of type 2 diabetes. But it is difficult to know if this is down to the rice itself, or other related factors such as socioeconomic variables or other dietary patterns.</p> <h2>What about the glycaemic index?</h2> <p>The higher fibre means brown rice has a <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0002916523314862">lower glycaemic index</a> (GI), meaning it raises blood sugar levels more slowly. But this is highly variable between different rices within the white and brown categories.</p> <p>The <a href="https://www.betterhealth.vic.gov.au/health/healthyliving/carbohydrates-and-the-glycaemic-index#:%7E:text=The%20glycaemic%20index%20(GI)%20is,simple'%20or%20'complex'.">GI system</a> uses low (less than 55), medium (55–70) and high (above 70) categories. <a href="https://glycemicindex.com/gi-search/?food_name=rice&amp;product_category=&amp;country=&amp;gi=&amp;gi_filter=&amp;serving_size_(g)=&amp;serving_size_(g)_filter=&amp;carbs_per_serve_(g)=&amp;carbs_per_serve_(g)_filter=&amp;gl=&amp;gl_filter=">Brown rices</a> fall into the low and medium categories. <a href="https://glycemicindex.com/gi-search/?food_name=rice&amp;product_category=&amp;country=&amp;gi=&amp;gi_filter=&amp;serving_size_(g)=&amp;serving_size_(g)_filter=&amp;carbs_per_serve_(g)=&amp;carbs_per_serve_(g)_filter=&amp;gl=&amp;gl_filter=">White rices</a> fall in the medium and high.</p> <p>There are specific <a href="https://www.gisymbol.com/low-gi-products/sunrice-doongara-low-gi-white-clever-rice-1kg/">low-GI types available</a> for both white and brown types. You can also lower the GI of rice by <a href="https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf503203r">heating and then cooling it</a>. This process converts some of the “available carbohydrates” into “resistant starch”, which then functions like dietary fibre.</p> <h2>Are there any benefits to white rice?</h2> <p>The <a href="https://www.realsimple.com/brown-rice-vs-white-rice-8417468#:%7E:text=The%20eating%20experience%20between%20these,chewier%20texture%20and%20nuttier%20flavor.">taste and textural qualities</a> of white and brown rices differ. White rice tends to have a softer texture and more mild or neutral flavour. Brown rice has a chewier texture and nuttier flavour.</p> <p>So, while you can technically substitute brown rice into most recipes, the experience will be different. Or other ingredients may need to be added or changed to create the desired texture.</p> <p>Removing more of the outer layers may also reduce the levels of <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10375490/">contaminants</a> such as pesticides.</p> <h2>We don’t just eat rice</h2> <p>Comparing white and brown rice seems like an easy way to boost nutritional value. But just because one food (brown rice) is more nutrient-dense doesn’t make the other food (white rice) “bad”.</p> <p>Ultimately, it’s not often that we eat just rice, so we don’t need the rice we choose to be the perfect one. Rice is typically the staple base of a more complex dish. So, it’s probably more important to think about what we eat with rice.</p> <p>Adding vegetables and lean proteins to rice-based dishes can easily add the micronutrients, bioactives and fibre that white rice is comparatively lacking, and this can likely do more to contribute to diet quality than eating brown rice instead.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/236767/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /></p> <p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/emma-beckett-22673">Emma Beckett</a>, Adjunct Senior Lecturer, Nutrition, Dietetics &amp; Food Innovation - School of Health Sciences, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/unsw-sydney-1414">UNSW Sydney</a></em></p> <p><em>Image credits: Shutterstock </em></p> <p><em>This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/is-white-rice-bad-for-me-can-i-make-it-lower-gi-or-healthier-236767">original article</a>.</em></p>

Food & Wine

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The surprising reason commercial planes are painted white

<p dir="ltr">Up until the middle of the last century, airplanes would fly through the sky unpainted as shiny silver tubes. </p> <p dir="ltr">But now, we are so used to seeing plane bodies being painted white, with the exception of the airline’s logo and a splash of colour on the plane’s tail. </p> <p dir="ltr">But this drastic look isn’t just about style and uniformity, as there is a simple reason why plane bodies are left plain. </p> <p dir="ltr">First of all, white paint jobs will show wear and tear a lot quicker on huge commercial planes and while this might not be ideal for a car or house, it's perfect for planes.</p> <p dir="ltr">From takeoff to landing, a plane goes through a lot. While the aircrafts are always deemed safe for flying, it'll likely suffer minor cosmetic damages as it hurtles through the sky at 900 kilometres per hour.</p> <p dir="ltr">Due to the frequent minor chips and scratches a plane has inflicted, using the white paint helps engineers and maintenance teams to spot any of these issues with ease. </p> <p dir="ltr">Another reason that white is uniform in the skies is because white paint is going to fade at a much slower rate than a darker shade. </p> <p dir="ltr">As planes fly above the clouds, they're exposed to a lot of UV rays which speeds up the process of the paint fading.</p> <p dir="ltr">Lastly, it's been found that birds can spot planes against the sky easier when they're painted all-white, as sometimes in rare occasions, birds can pose a safety risk.</p> <p dir="ltr">It wasn’t until 50 years ago that airlines started painting their planes, with Air France being credited for starting the movement in the 1970s. </p> <p dir="ltr">"Since Air France introduced the first 'Euro-white' livery in 1976, the all-white fuselage look has become increasingly standard for the world's airlines," aviation historian Shea Oakley told Travel + Leisure. </p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image credits: Shutterstock </em></p>

Travel Tips

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Teen athlete's tragic death just weeks before Paris Games

<p>A young Olympic hopeful has tragically died just weeks out from making his debut at the Paris Games. </p> <p>Jackson James Rice, 18, was found dead after a diving accident in Faleloa, Tonga on Saturday from a “suspected shallow water blackout”.</p> <p>The teenager had been set to become the first caucasian to represent Tonga at an Olympic Games, having qualified for the new kite-foiling event.</p> <p>He had been free diving from a boat when the tragedy unfolded. </p> <p>His body was found beneath the boat and despite several resuscitation attempts, he could not be revived. </p> <p>Rice's heartbroken father confirmed the news of the teenager's death to the Matangi Tonga newspaper, as tributes flowed for the young athlete.</p> <p>Rice’s sister Lily paid an emotional tribute to her brother on social media on Sunday, as she wrote on Facebook, “I was blessed with the most amazing brother in the whole world and it pains me to say that he’s passed away."</p> <p>“He was an amazing kitefoiler and he would have made it to the Olympics and come out with a big shiny medal … he made so many amazing friends all over the world.”</p> <p>Other friends paid tribute to the teenager on social media, with one writing, “I can’t begin to put into words what I’m feeling right now. I still cannot believe it, when I woke up to this news I thought you were playing around. You’re the most amazing friend anyone could ask for and anyone who has spent time with you would agree.”</p> <p>Rice was originally born in the US but moved to Tonga at a young age with his British-born parents. </p> <p>He grew up in Haʻapai, where his parents run a tourist lodge, and always viewed himself as Tongan.</p> <p>The talented athlete qualified for what had been due to be his first Olympic Games last December, after placing eighth at a Sail Sydney event.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Instagram </em></p>

Caring

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Bridgerton’s Adjoa Andoh responds to backlash for “terribly white” coronation comment

<p dir="ltr">A star of the stage and screen, Adjoa Andoh HonFRSL, made waves around the world with her comments on the royal family’s post-coronation balcony appearance. </p> <p dir="ltr">Coverage of King Charles III’s coronation was available around the world from numerous providers, but it was the comments <em>Bridgerton </em>star Adjoa Andoh made during ITV’s extensive coverage in the UK that set the internet ablaze. </p> <p dir="ltr">To kick off their day, the network broadcast a special edition of their <em>Good Morning Britain</em> show, with a programme hosted by Tom Bradby and Julie Etchingham to follow. </p> <p dir="ltr">Their show saw them welcome a whole host of guests - including but not limited to reporters out on The Mall for the day’s festivities. Their coverage was going as planned until they cut to their temporary studio for the royals stepping out onto Buckingham Palace’s balcony.</p> <p dir="ltr">Bradby and Etchingham asked for thoughts from their guests, and it was then that Andoh shared her take, noting that “we have gone from the rich diversity of the Abbey to a terribly white balcony. I am very struck by that.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I am also looking at those younger generations and thinking ‘what are the nuances that they will inhabit when they grow?’”</p> <p dir="ltr">A clip from the show went viral on Twitter soon after it was uploaded, where it was met with mixed - and loud - response. </p> <p dir="ltr">The comment stunned the ITV presenters, and Myleene Klass was seen staring at the actor as she spoke.</p> <p dir="ltr">The clip was later shared on Twitter, where it received a mixed response. Some people criticised Andoh for her words, while others applauded her for speaking out.</p> <p dir="ltr">Dozens raced to submit complaints to OFCOM, claiming that Andoh’s take had stemmed from racist ideals, while others rose to her defence, thanking her for speaking out. </p> <p dir="ltr">As author and activist Dr Shola Mos-Shogbamimu wrote, Andoh “told no lies in factual observation of ‘terribly White’ (literal &amp; symbolic) Buckingham palace balcony at #Coronation in contrast to tokenism of race diversity at Westminster Abbey &amp; got branded ‘racist’”.</p> <p dir="ltr">Meanwhile, conservative commentator Darren Grimes demanded to know “why is it ok to dismiss a white family for being white?”</p> <p dir="ltr">They were only two of such comments flooding social media, and were the exact kind Andoh addressed in her next public appearance, when she joined Paddy O’Connnell on <em>BBC Radio 4</em>. </p> <p dir="ltr">“I think I upset a few people yesterday,” she noted. “I was talking about the day and how marvellous it was, and then looking at the balcony at the end and suddenly going ‘oh, it’s so white!’ because the day had been so mixed, and I didn’t mean to upset anybody.”</p> <p dir="ltr">However, it wasn’t quite enough to stem the tide of feedback, while users all across Twitter taking sides, and sharing their opinion on the latest round of comment. </p> <p dir="ltr">“There's an old saying: "Think before you speak". Andoh thought about it and said it anyway,” one said. “Spare us the crocodile tears. You knew exactly what you meant.”</p> <p dir="ltr">“She said the right thing they didn’t want to hear instead of the white thing they did want to hear,” another wrote. “The firm had an extraordinary opportunity to show progress and inclusion, not to mention the perfect ambassadors for the Commonwealth - and they ran them out of town.”</p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Images: Getty</em></p>

TV

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Stars lead the Met Gala carpet in stunning black and white

<p dir="ltr">Often dubbed the “Super Bowl of fashion”, the annual Met Gala has once again showcased the best that high fashion has to offer. </p> <p dir="ltr">The Met Gala serves as the annual fundraiser for New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, and gives the whos-who of Hollywood the chance to experiment with their wildest fashion choices. </p> <p dir="ltr">This year, the annual affair celebrated the exhibition “<a href="https://www.vogue.com/article/karl-lagerfeld-a-line-of-beauty-will-be-the-metropolitan-museum-of-arts-spring-2023-costume-institute-exhibition" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty</a>,” which honours the legacy of the late designer who died in February 2019. </p> <p dir="ltr">Lagerfeld helmed fashion houses such as Chanel, Fendi, and his own eponymous line, and raised funds for The Met’s Costume Institute while having an immeasurable impact on the fashion industry. </p> <p dir="ltr">As a result of this year’s theme, the stars largely turned out in various designs of black and white, which was a class colour combination that became Lagerfeld’s signature. </p> <p dir="ltr">Some looks on the star-studded carpet included Lagerfeld’s staples such as Chanel tweed, pearl embellishments, seemingly conflicting texture and endless, endless tulle. </p> <p dir="ltr">Celebrities such as Nicole Kidman, Glenn Close, Hugh Jackman, Pedro Pascal, Naomi Campbell, Jessica Chastain, Salma Hayek, and many many more graced the carpet, posing up a storm and showing off their intricately designed looks. </p> <p dir="ltr">One of the more unusual looks on the carpet came from actor and musician Jared Leto, who ran with his own unique interpretation of the theme and arrived dressed as Karl Lagerfeld’s cat Choupette, which translates to “sweetie” in French. </p> <p dir="ltr">While many of the celebrities in attendance interpreted the theme in their own ways, there is no doubt that the Hollywood A-listers who were lucky enough to be invited know how to make an entrance. </p> <p dir="ltr"><em>All image credits: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Indigenous artist seeking white Australian to donate their “future deceased body” to an art installation

<p dir="ltr">An Indigenous artist has put a call out for Australians of “British descent” to donate their “future deceased body” to an art installation. </p> <p dir="ltr">Nathan Maynard, a well known Palawa artist and playwright, put an advertisement for the unusual request in the weekend edition of The Age newspaper.</p> <p dir="ltr">Maynard signed the bizarre request as a “palawa” artist: one of the terms First Nations people from Tasmania use when referring to themselves.  </p> <p dir="ltr">“Palawa artist wanting to find an Australian of British descent who is willing to donate their future deceased body to an art installation,” the notice read. </p> <p dir="ltr">“The work will speak to sacrifice for past sins perpetrated against the palawa. Potential applicants should see this opportunity as an honour.”</p> <p dir="ltr">“The body and memory of the successful applicant will be treated with the utmost respect at all stages of the project.”</p> <p dir="ltr">The call-out was quick to spark backlash when it was reposted on social media, with one writing, “You can’t just obtain bodies for display in newspapers now. This is very bizarre on multiple levels.”</p> <p dir="ltr">Others questioned the legality of the request, with one person writing, “I dunno that this would be legal, tampering with a corpse is a crime! You can donate your body to medical science, but I don’t think this.” </p> <p dir="ltr">Another wrote, “Borderline psychotic, definitely completely illegal.”</p> <p dir="ltr">Despite the criticism, Mr Maynard told Daily Mail Australia that since the notice went to print, he has received half a dozen applications for their body to be used in the installation in November. </p> <p dir="ltr">The artist said if white Australians are upset by the request, they should ask themselves why they didn't have the same reaction to the mass murder of Aboriginal people. </p> <p dir="ltr">“If you’re not an Aboriginal person and you’re upset by this, I think you should ask yourself why you’re not upset that there is still First Nations remains that have been stolen from their people, stolen from their country in institutions all around the world that are still not repatriated to their own communities,” he said.</p> <p dir="ltr">Nathan said the motivation behind his installation revolves around the fact that thousands of First Nations people were killed by colonists, with their remains being sent overseas to be displayed in institutions and museums without a proper ceremony. </p> <p dir="ltr">“So many Aboriginal people's remains are still overseas. People are trying to bring their ancestors home and they are being denied that right,” Mr Maynard said. </p> <p dir="ltr">“Human bodies are very sacred and they should be treated with respect.”</p> <p dir="ltr">“Whitefellas obviously don't know how to handle remains with respect, so I'm going to show them how,” he said. </p> <p dir="ltr">The artwork has already received support from the state-funded Tasmanian Museum and Gallery and the Hobart City Council, which has donated $15,000 to the unusual installation.</p> <p dir="ltr">The artwork has been commissioned to appear as part of an exhibition for the popular Hobart Current biennial exhibition in November 2023. </p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image credits: Facebook / The Age</em></p>

Music

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7 things you didn’t know your rice cooker could do

<p>You’d be forgiven for thinking that the humble rice cooker is a one trick pony. After all, the name implies that it performs a highly specific function with no mention of anything else. Interestingly, though, the rice cooker can be used for a whole range of culinary tasks far above and beyond booking your long grain. Here are seven of our favourite dishes to cook in the rice cooker.</p> <ol> <li><strong>Frittata</strong> – Perfect frittata by simply switching to the cook setting, heat olive oil, add veggies followed by beaten eggs, cover and reset to let the cycle run through.</li> <li><strong>Macaroni and cheese</strong> – Super simple with minimal mess. Add all the ingredients and set to cook. Perfect mac and cheese with no washing up!</li> <li><strong>Rice pudding</strong> – Cook in the same way you’d usually cook your rice, just make sure to stir every 15 minutes or so.</li> <li><strong>Cheesecake and banana bread</strong> – Prepare your recipe as you usually would and then pour the batter into the lined rice cooker insert.</li> <li><strong>Porridge</strong> – Wake up to perfect porridge every time! Presoak steel cut oats overnight in the rice cooker then run the cook cycle in the morning for creamy, delicious porridge.</li> <li><strong>Quinoa</strong> – If you fancy jumping on the quinoa train, try cooking it in your rice cooker. It cooks at the same rate as long grain white rice so makes the perfect substitute that doesn’t require any fiddly programming changes.</li> <li><strong>Polenta</strong> – Create creamy polenta by adding one cup of polenta to three cups of liquid and set to cook. Add cheese or butter at the end and you’re done.</li> </ol> <p>Have you ever used your rice cooker to cook something other than rice? Share your experience with us in the comments below.</p> <p><strong>Related links:</strong></p> <p><a href="/lifestyle/home-garden/2016/08/your-bed-sheets-could-be-making-you-sick/"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em><strong>Your bed sheets could be making you sick</strong></em></span></a></p> <p><a href="/lifestyle/home-garden/2016/08/how-to-clean-your-bathroom-like-a-professional/"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>How to clean your bathroom like a professional</em></span></strong></a></p> <p><a href="/lifestyle/home-garden/2016/08/ways-to-ripen-your-avocado-in-minutes/"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em><strong>5 ways to ripen your avocado in minutes</strong></em></span></a></p>

Home & Garden

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Can ‘voluntourism’ outgrow the white saviour stereotype and make a positive change post-pandemic?

<p>As the tourism industry emerges from pandemic shutdowns and border closures, so too is “voluntourism”, the sometimes controversial combination of overseas volunteer work and more traditional tourist experiences.</p> <p>Although hard to measure, pre-pandemic estimates suggest voluntourism was worth <a href="https://sites.lsa.umich.edu/mje/2022/01/22/the-paradox-of-voluntourism-how-international-volunteering-impacts-host-communities/">US$2 billion annually</a>, with up to <a href="https://www.cbi.eu/market-information/tourism/save-tourism/market-potential">ten million volunteers</a> globally. While COVID shut the practice down for the duration, it remains a <a href="https://roadbook.com/opinion/negative-effects-of-voluntourism/">multi-billion-dollar industry</a>, now poised to <a href="https://www.sbs.strath.ac.uk/blogs/SBS/post.aspx?id=1420">return and rebuild</a>.</p> <p>But volunteer tourism has met with considerable criticism. Voluntourists have been accused of putting <a href="https://www.stuff.co.nz/travel/news/109983663/nz-school-students-pay-thousands-to-visit-orphanages-and-volunteer-overseas">vulnerable people at risk</a> (<a href="https://drivingchange.org/do-no-harm-the-dark-side-of-voluntourism/">including children</a>), <a href="https://tourismteacher.com/commodification-volunteer-tourism/">commodifying volunteer work</a>, perpetuating <a href="https://darbymatt.medium.com/voluntourism-is-neo-colonialism-56b6a25f6924">neo-colonialism</a> and <a href="https://www.euronews.com/travel/2022/02/21/how-white-saviour-voluntourism-gets-you-famous-on-tiktok">reinforcing</a> a “white saviour” complex.</p> <p>Voluntourism is also <a href="https://www.thenewhumanitarian.org/2021/06/14/travel-opens-again-aid-voluntourism-needs-get-real">largely unregulated</a>, raising important <a href="https://journalofethics.ama-assn.org/article/voluntourism/2019-09">ethical questions</a> about who it really aims to serve – travellers or hosts. These issues are now being felt in the Pacific, where voluntourism is a relatively new but growing industry. As <a href="https://e-tangata.co.nz/reflections/the-problem-with-white-saviours/">Simone Kaho wrote</a> of her experience in Tonga:</p> <blockquote> <p>In many cases, voluntourism asks the local community to stand back, and allow themselves to be helped. It turns helping into a business model.</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="https://blog.geographydirections.com/2019/09/03/global-encounters-voluntourism-in-fiji/">My research</a> in Fiji has also highlighted the problems associated with the commercialisation and commodification of volunteering. These are real and important issues that need close examination as tourism in general picks up.</p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">End voluntourism and the white saviour industrial complex <a href="https://t.co/gMHkZfTlsf">https://t.co/gMHkZfTlsf</a> via <a href="https://twitter.com/mailandguardian?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@mailandguardian</a></p> <p>— NGO Watch Africa (@NGOWatchAfrica) <a href="https://twitter.com/NGOWatchAfrica/status/1582376611449491457?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">October 18, 2022</a></p></blockquote> <p><strong>Behind the ‘bula smile’</strong></p> <p>The Fiji case study – conducted with an international, for-profit, specialist voluntourism agency – tells a complex story about the benefits and downsides of voluntourism.</p> <p>Volunteers are hosted by local families and included in household life, attending church or religious functions, learning to cook Fijian food, and spending time with children and other family members. Through this, they gain an understanding of life behind the famous “bula” smile. As one staff member said:</p> <blockquote> <p>The host may get angry with you if you leave the light on, you may feel like you are back living with mum and dad because they may give you a lunch box, things like that. But it’s important that they see the person who is paid to smile at the Hilton, what they are like at home with their kids, how they make ends meet, how they eat.</p> </blockquote> <p>Hosts often put considerable energy into sharing their way of life and teaching volunteers Fijian culture. Most hosts and staff took pride in helping travellers find their way around and teaching them Fijian ways. In turn, this helped Fijian staff build knowledge and pride in their own culture.</p> <blockquote> <p>Also the good thing is that we keep up with our culture. Because if you are talking about it every day and you show them and try to talk about it, then the history remains […] Now when we go to the village we do the <em>sevusevu</em> [kava ceremony] and all those things, and we go with the elders. It was our mothers that did that, but now we are doing it, the next generation.</p> <p>When we have volunteers in a Fijian village we will go to any lengths to give them what they want, to try and serve them […] But of course then the volunteers change to become more Fijian!</p> </blockquote> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">Are you itching to start travelling, but want to do it with care?</p> <p>Listen to this week's <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/WisdomWalks?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#WisdomWalks</a> to discover how you can avoid traps like voluntourism and greenwashing when travelling.</p> <p>🎧 27 mins.<a href="https://t.co/f366FJcyQG">https://t.co/f366FJcyQG</a></p> <p>— Curio (@curioio) <a href="https://twitter.com/curioio/status/1587821837932797953?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">November 2, 2022</a></p></blockquote> <p><strong>A chance to improve voluntourism</strong></p> <p>The growth of voluntourism in Fiji follows half a century of <a href="https://medium.com/tourism-geographic/paradise-the-noble-savage-and-the-white-savior-in-fiji-7ac7e302e5ec">mass tourism</a>, in which contact between Fijians and tourists has been largely limited and manufactured. Hosts embrace the opportunity to interact with tourists more directly and to build connections across the globe.</p> <p>However, the commercial nature of the encounter has the potential to significantly undermine these connections. The large fees paid by voluntourists mean they – like any tourist – are consumers.</p> <p>Volunteers have certain expectations, ranging from the mundane (internet access, good food and logistical support) to the more profound (a sense of accomplishment, a feeling they’ve made a difference). They will complain if these expectations aren’t met.</p> <p>The pandemic also raised questions about the sustainability of voluntourism. The organisation I studied cut its global workforce significantly. In Fiji it had provided jobs for about a dozen Fijian staff, as well as home-stay income for many households.</p> <p>While there is evidence that <a href="https://theconversation.com/traditional-skills-help-people-on-the-tourism-deprived-pacific-islands-survive-the-pandemic-148987">reliance on customary knowledge, systems and practices</a> helped tourism workers to survive and even thrive during the pandemic, the future for many is uncertain.</p> <p>COVID-19 has been something of a wake-up call that we need to move beyond voluntourism as a pseudo-development practice or as a commodified, profit-making experience. This is an opportunity for the industry to take on board the criticisms, examine past practice and reassess the role and impact of volunteering.</p> <p>Rather than rush back to business as usual, this is the perfect moment to look at reconfiguring the industry in line with the principles of sustainability and <a href="https://medium.com/activate-the-future/understanding-the-opportunity-of-regenerative-tourism-894136cafd3b">regenerative tourism</a>. In the process, perhaps voluntourism’s strengths – building cross-cultural relationships, learning and solidarity – can contribute more to meaningful social and environmental change.<img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/195719/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /></p> <p><em>Writen by Sharon McLennan. Republished with permission from <a href="https://theconversation.com/can-voluntourism-outgrow-the-white-saviour-stereotype-and-make-a-positive-change-post-pandemic-195719" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.</em></p> <p><em>Image: Getty Images</em></p>

International Travel

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Wimbledon to make key change to all-white dress code

<p dir="ltr"><a href="https://oversixty.co.nz/lifestyle/beauty-style/female-tennis-stars-speak-out-against-all-white-wimbledon-dress-code" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Wimbledon’s controversial all-white dress code</a> is expected to undergo a major change after the prestigious tennis competition faced months of pressure from female athletes.</p> <p dir="ltr">The 1880s rule restricts players to wearing only white clothing - including undergarments such as underwear and bras - and has been the subject of criticism for the toll it takes on female players in relation to their periods.</p> <p dir="ltr">Current guidelines require players to wear all-white, with undergarments that can be seen during play or because of sweat only allowed to have a “single trim of colour no wider than one centimetre”.</p> <p dir="ltr">Now, Wimbledon bosses are due to scrap the undergarments rule for female players, which will come into effect from 2023 and will allow for different coloured underwear and bras to be worn.</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-be94bf8d-7fff-b809-228d-6418307f5490"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">The archaic rule became the subject of widespread attention after stars spoke about the anxiety around getting their period while competing, including Australian player Daria Saville who admitted she has needed to skip her period altogether and British star Heather Watson revealing she would likely take birth control to stop her period ahead of Wimbledon.</p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">Hey <a href="https://twitter.com/Wimbledon?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@Wimbledon</a>, wanna chat periods? <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/AddressTheDressCode?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#AddressTheDressCode</a><a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/Wimbledon2022?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#Wimbledon2022</a> <a href="https://t.co/mcjAioqMw4">pic.twitter.com/mcjAioqMw4</a></p> <p>— gabs (@gabriellaholmez) <a href="https://twitter.com/gabriellaholmez/status/1543197239182508033?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">July 2, 2022</a></p></blockquote> <p dir="ltr">At the same time,the rule drew fresh criticism when Romanian player Mihaela Buzarnescu was forced to swap her bra for her coach’s prior to her first-round match in July, after officials noticed hers was too dark.</p> <p dir="ltr">"My bustier was too black and could be seen up here," she told <em>Eurosport </em>at the time.</p> <p dir="ltr">"The white one I had was too transparent and you could see everything underneath and I couldn't wear it, so I borrowed from my coach, I took her bustier.”</p> <p dir="ltr">A group of protestors also made headlines during the ladies’ singles final, gathering outside Wimbledon dressed in white shirts and red undershorts with signs reading “About bloody time”, “Address the dress code” and “You can do it Ian Hewitt”, referring to the All England Club chairman.</p> <p dir="ltr">Gabriella Holmes and Holly Gordon, who organised the campaign Address the Dress Code to highlight the anxiety women face while competing in all-white, were among those protesting, telling <em><a href="https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2022/jul/09/protesters-at-wimbledon-urge-end-to-all-white-dress-code-due-to-period-concerns#:~:text=3%20months%20old-,Protesters%20at%20Wimbledon%20urge%20end%20to%20all%2Dwhite,code%20due%20to%20period%20concerns&amp;text=Campaigners%20are%20urging%20Wimbledon%20organisers,female%20players%20who%20are%20menstruating." target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Guardian</a></em> they began calling for change after opening up to each other about the challenges of playing sport while menstruating.</p> <p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-4648f22f-7fff-ec3f-f7cf-70fda8b1b488"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">“We’ve come down today because we want Wimbledon to address the white dress code that doesn’t take into consideration female athletes on their periods,” Holmes said at the time.</p> <p dir="ltr"><img src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/2022/11/wimbledon-protest.jpg" alt="" width="1280" height="720" /></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Members of the public have begun calling for action too, including Gabriella Holmes and Holly Gordon, the women who started the campaign Address the Dress Code. Image: Getty Images</em></p> <p dir="ltr">“We want to make it really known to Wimbledon that the rules they are making at the top, they’re all already filtering down to grassroots levels. We are already seeing tons of young girls who drop out of sports when they start their period or by the time they’ve hit puberty they’ve stopped sports altogether.</p> <p dir="ltr">“We think it’s the time to address those barriers for young girls getting into the sport and it starts at the top, so that’s Wimbledon. We want women to be able to focus on the tennis and on the sport and not have to worry about other factors when competing at this level.”</p> <p dir="ltr">More athletes have since spoken out about the issue, with Andy Murray’s mother and coach Judy describing it as a “traumatic experience” and noting that other sports had already dropped similar rules.</p> <p dir="ltr">“One of the biggest problems previously in sport was that it was always white shorts, white kit and so on in lots of different sports,” Murray told the <em>Daily Mail</em>.</p> <p dir="ltr">“Everything was white. Nearly all sports have moved over to colour now.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I think it’s certainly a much more open talking point, if you are wearing all white and then possibly have a leak while you’re playing.</p> <p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-fdb5d9d2-7fff-1b1d-78e8-9e621ea27795"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">“I cannot think of a much more traumatic experience than that.”</p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">Indeed, it is time to address the dress code in sports and especially in Tennis competitions like Wimbledon. #<a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/AddressTheDressCode?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#AddressTheDressCode</a> <a href="https://t.co/ZMD9OXg1iN">https://t.co/ZMD9OXg1iN</a></p> <p>— OJEApads (@OJEApads) <a href="https://twitter.com/OJEApads/status/1555134095717441541?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">August 4, 2022</a></p></blockquote> <p dir="ltr">Since the announcement of the rule change, tennis icon Billie Jean King has slammed the rule, saying it was one of her biggest “pet peeves”.</p> <p dir="ltr">“My generation, we always worried because we wore all white all the time,” she told <em>CNN</em>.</p> <p dir="ltr">“And it’s what you wear underneath that’s important for your menstrual period.</p> <p dir="ltr">“And we’re always checking whether we’re showing. You get tense about it because the first thing we are is entertainers and you want whatever you wear to look immaculate, look great. We’re entertainers. We’re bringing it to the people.”</p> <p dir="ltr">In a statement, the All England Club stated they were in discussions over ways to support players and prioritise women’s health.</p> <p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f57600df-7fff-4a46-64e5-e21c91521e6c"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">“Prioritising women’s health and supporting players based on their individual needs is very important to us, and we are in discussions with the WTA, with manufacturers and with the medical teams about the ways in which we can do that,” the statement read.</p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Loretta Lynn was more than a great songwriter – she was a spokeswoman for white rural working-class women

<p>Loretta Lynn’s <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2022/10/04/arts/music/loretta-lynn-dead.html">death at the age of 90</a> marks the end of a remarkable life of achievement in country music.</p> <p>Her dramatic life story – retold in the 1980 award-winning film “<a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0080549/">Coal Miner’s Daughter</a>,” based on <a href="https://www.grandcentralpublishing.com/titles/loretta-lynn/coal-miners-daughter/9781538701690/">Lynn’s 1976 biography</a> – made Lynn a household name. She grew up in poverty in a small Kentucky mining town, marrying and starting a family as a teenager before reaching unprecedented heights of commercial success as a recording artist of modern country music.</p> <p>But as a <a href="https://arts-sciences.buffalo.edu/music/faculty/faculty-directory.host.html/content/shared/arts-sciences/music/new-faculty-profiles/vander-wel-stephanie.html">scholar of gender and country music</a> and author of “<a href="https://www.press.uillinois.edu/books/?id=p084959">Hillbilly Maidens, Okies, and Cowgirls: Women’s Country Music, 1930-1960</a>,” I know that Lynn represented more than just star power and fame in country music – she spoke to the concerns of women, especially white working-class women in rural and suburban America.</p> <h2>Speaking up, singing out</h2> <p>Lynn’s rise in the 1960s took place when country music appeared tied to conservative politics. It was a time when Merle Haggard’s “<a href="https://academic.oup.com/california-scholarship-online/book/28551/chapter-abstract/238414028?redirectedFrom=fulltext">Okie from Muskogee</a>,” with its attacks on counterculture, marijuana and draft-card burning, became a populist anthem for the country’s cultural conservatives.</p> <p>In contrast, Lynn’s songwriting continued the legacy of <a href="https://www.latimes.com/local/obituaries/la-me-kitty-wells-20120717-story.html">Kitty Wells</a>, <a href="https://www.tennessean.com/story/entertainment/music/2016/09/25/country-music-hall-famer-jean-shepard-dead-82/76568704/">Jean Shepard</a> and other women in country music who were willing to speak up about the concerns of American women.</p> <p>Lynn’s songs defied societal expectations by connecting her musical representations of working-class and rural women to broader social issues affecting women across the U.S.</p> <p>She aimed for her music to articulate the fears, dreams and anger of women living in a patriarchal society. It railed against those who idealized women’s domestic roles and demonized outspoken feminists.</p> <h2>‘There’s gonna be some changes’</h2> <p>Specifically, for a generation of predominantly white women in the 1960s and 1970s who did not identify as urban or college-educated feminists, Lynn’s music offered candid conversations about their private lives as wives and mothers.</p> <p>As Lynn <a href="https://www.grandcentralpublishing.com/titles/loretta-lynn/coal-miners-daughter/9781538701690/">stated in her autobiography</a>, her audience recognized her as a “mother and a wife and a daughter, who had feelings just like other women.”</p> <p>She did this through clever and witty songwriting and lyrical techniques that combined the vernacular of her audience with her resonant voice.</p> <p>Meanwhile, the song arrangements of Owen Bradley of Decca Records directed Lynn’s musical talents to a broad audience. He combined the edgier sound of honky-tonk instrumentation – electric guitars, pedal steels and fiddles – with the polish of the Nashville sound by including the smooth sounding vocal harmonies of the vocal quartet the <a href="http://www.jordanaires.net/">Jordanaires</a>, as heard in numerous country, gospel and rock ‘n’ roll recordings.</p> <p>This provided a sound of strength and conviction to accompany Lynn’s bold and forthright songs as she laid bare the double standards of gender roles. </p> <p>With her assertive and resonant voice, Lynn, in her 1966 track “<a href="https://www.rollingstone.com/music/music-lists/loretta-lynn-best-lyrics-songwriting-175002/">Don’t Come Home A Drinkin’ (With Lovin’ on Your Mind)</a>,” warns men not to expect women to be waiting at home, sexually available for them after they’d spent the night drinking: </p> <blockquote> <p>Well, you thought I’d be waitin’ up when you came home last night</p> <p>You’d been out with all the boys and you ended up half tight</p> <p>Liquor and love, they just don’t mix</p> <p>Leave that bottle or me behind</p> <p>And don’t come home a drinkin’ with lovin’ on your mind</p> </blockquote> <p>In a similar vein, Lynn, who <a href="https://www.grandcentralpublishing.com/titles/loretta-lynn/coal-miners-daughter/9781538701690/">claimed that her songs about wayward husbands</a> were inspired by her fraught marriage to Oliver “Doolittle” Lynn, confronted the “other woman” in songs such as 1966’s “You Ain’t Woman Enough” and 1968’s “Fist City.” </p> <h2>A lasting legacy</h2> <p>Fully aware that her personalized accounts became political messages for her fan base of women, Lynn co-wrote and recorded “<a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/music/2022/10/04/loretta-lynn-the-pill/">The Pill</a>” in 1975. It was a rare foray into the topic of women’s reproductive rights for country music. In typical fashion, though, Lynn approached the issue from the perspective of a rural working-class woman: </p> <blockquote> <p>I’m tired of all your crowin’</p> <p>How you and your hens play</p> <p>While holdin’ a couple in my arms</p> <p>Another’s on the way</p> <p>This chicken’s done tore up her nest</p> <p>And I’m ready to make a deal</p> <p>And ya can’t afford to turn it down</p> <p>‘Cause you know I’ve got the pill</p> </blockquote> <p>The song’s sexual innuendos about cavorting roosters and hens incorporated the double entendres and humor of early blues and country, while providing a frank discussion about female sexual pleasure. It also addressed the right for women to take control over their bodies and reproduction.</p> <p>The song came out just two years after <a href="https://supreme.justia.com/cases/federal/us/410/113/">the Supreme Court passed Roe v. Wade</a>, granting women the ability to govern their own reproductive health through abortion.</p> <p>Indeed, Lynn commented on the Supreme Court’s ruling in her autobiography “Personally, I think you should prevent unwanted pregnancy rather than get an abortion. It would be wrong for me. But I’m thinking of all the poor girls who get pregnant when they don’t want to be, and how they should have a choice instead of leaving it up to some politician or doctor who don’t have to raise the baby.”</p> <p>Her recording “<a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/music/2022/10/04/loretta-lynn-the-pill/">The Pill</a>” spoke to married women who wanted to be able to space out their children and prevent unwanted pregnancies so that they could pursue educational and professional opportunities. </p> <p>In interviews, Lynn discussed at length how female listeners flocked to her after concerts, relieved to find a public figure with whom they felt comfortable to discuss birth control. </p> <p>Not everyone was thrilled, though. Male country <a href="https://www.thedailybeast.com/after-country-stations-banned-loretta-lynns-the-pill-it-became-her-biggest-pop-hit">disc jockeys banned</a> “The Pill” from the airwaves. Nonetheless, the recording became her biggest seller in 1975 and furthered Lynn’s reputation as a spokeswoman for white rural working-class women. </p> <p>Her music also inspired the women in country music who followed her to further explore issues of gender roles. Lynn’s legacy lives on in the music of female country artists – such as <a href="https://www.reba.com/">Reba McEntire</a> and <a href="https://www.mirandalambert.com/">Miranda Lambert</a> – who learned from Lynn how to create music that confronts and triumphs over the societal obstacles that women face.</p> <p>While all of country music will mourn the death of Lynn, it is perhaps her female fans who will feel the loss more acutely. Lynn gave them a social and political voice, and helped make country music a genre relevant to the complexities of women’s lives.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/loretta-lynn-was-more-than-a-great-songwriter-she-was-a-spokeswoman-for-white-rural-working-class-women-191932" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. </em></p>

Music

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How whiteness was invented and fashioned in Britain’s colonial age of expansion

<p>Fashion <a href="https://www.routledge.com/The-Force-of-Fashion-in-Politics-and-Society-Global-Perspectives-from-Early/Lemire/p/book/9781138274228">is political — today as in the past</a>. As Britain’s Empire dramatically expanded, people of all ranks lived with clothing and everyday objects in startlingly different ways than generations before. </p> <p>The years between 1660 and 1820 saw the expansion of the British empire and commercial capitalism. The <a href="https://www.bloomsbury.com/ca/cotton-9781845202996">social politics of Britain’s cotton trade</a> mirrored profound global transformations bound up with technological and industrial revolutions, social modernization, colonialism and slavery. </p> <p>As history educators and researchers Abdul Mohamud and Robin Whitburn note, the British “<a href="https://www.bl.uk/restoration-18th-century-literature/articles/britains-involvement-with-new-world-slavery-and-the-transatlantic-slave-trade">monarchy started the large-scale involvement of the English in the slave trade</a>” after 1660.</p> <p>Vast <a href="https://www.routledge.com/The-British-Cotton-Trade-1660-1815-Vol-2/Lemire/p/book/9781138757943">profits poured in from areas of plantation slavery</a>, particularly from the Caribbean. The mass enslavement of Africans was at the heart of this brutal system, with laws and policing enforcing Black subjugation <a href="https://schoolshistory.org.uk/topics/british-empire/economic-consequences-of-empire/slave-resistance/">in the face of repeated resistance from enslaved</a> people.</p> <p>Western fashion reflected the racialized politics that infused this period. Indian cottons and European linens <a href="https://www.cambridge.org/core/books/global-trade-and-the-transformation-of-consumer-cultures/A7517EB8FB5003114662BA428501AB79">were now traded in ever-rising volumes</a>, feeding the vogue for lighter and potentially whiter textiles, ever more in demand. </p> <p>My scholarship explores dimensions of whiteness through material histories — how whiteness was fashioned in labour structures, routines, esthetics and everyday practices.</p> <h2>Whiteness on many scales</h2> <p>Enslaved men and women were never given white clothes, unless as part of livery (servants’ uniforms, which were sometimes very luxurious). Wearing white textiles became a marker of status in urban centres, in colonizing nations and in colonies. Textile whiteness was a transient state demanding constant renewal, shaping ecologies of style. The resulting Black/white dichotomy hardened as profits from enslavement soared, with a striking impact on culture.</p> <p>Whiteness in clothing, decor and fashion was amplified, becoming a marker of status. Elaborate washing techniques were used to achieve material goals. </p> <p>British sociologist Vron Ware emphasizes “<a href="https://doi.org/10.1215/9780822381044-009">the importance of thinking about whiteness on many different scales</a>,” including “as an interconnected global system, having different inflections and implications depending on where and when it has been produced.” Accordingly, fabrics, laundry and fashion were entangled in imperial aims. </p> <h2>Pristine whiteness in garments</h2> <p>Laundering was codified in household manuals from the late 1660s, a chore overseen by housewives and housekeepers. Women with fewer options sweated over washtubs, engaged in ubiquitous labour with the aim of pristine whiteness. </p> <p>In colonial and plantation regions, where lightweight fabrics were key, Black enslaved women were tasked with this never-ending drudgery. Only a few profited personally from their fashioning skills.</p> <p>This workforce was vast. Yet few museums have invited visitors to consider the processes of soaking, bleaching, washing, blueing, starching and ironing required by historic garments. </p> <p>A recent exhibit at <a href="https://agnes.queensu.ca/connect/about-agnes/#about-agnes">Agnes Etherington Art Centre</a> at Queen’s University <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bDY3oy0tbA">curated by Jason Cyrus, a researcher who analyzes fashion and textile history</a>, examined <a href="https://agnes.queensu.ca/digital-agnes/video/black-bodies-white-gold-unpacking-slavery-and-north-american-cotton-production">slavery and North American cotton production</a>.</p> <h2>Laundry labour of enslaved women</h2> <p>The skilled labour of enslaved women was a core component of every plantation and an essential colonial urban trade, given the resident population and many thousands of seafarers and sojourners arriving annually in the Caribbean — all wanting clothes refreshed. </p> <p>Ports throughout the Atlantic were stocked with wash tubs and women labouring over them. Orderly material whiteness was the aim. Mary Prince recorded her thoughts about a demanding mistress in Antigua, who gave the enslaved Prince weekly “<a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.5149/9781469633299_prince">two bundles of clothes, as much as a boy could help me lift; but I could give no satisfaction</a>.”</p> <p>Prince only earned money laundering for ships’ captains during her “owners’” absence. Within port cities, including the Caribbean and imperial centres, this trade allowed some enslaved women mobility and sometimes self-emancipation. But fashioning whiteness was a fraught process, with many historical threads.</p> <h2>Colour scrubbed from recovered statues</h2> <p>From the 1750s, European fashion and artistic style was increasingly inspired by perceptions of the classical past. Countless portraits were painted of wealthy people as Greek gods, the classical past becoming, as cultural theorist Stuart Hall observed, a “myth reservoir.” These became sources <a href="https://doi.org/10.1515/9781478021223-023">for imagining Europe’s origins</a> and destiny.</p> <p>European scholars and the educated public viewed this cultural lineage as white. <a href="https://www.rom.on.ca/en/exhibitions-galleries/exhibitions/kore-670">Remnants of polychrome colouring was scrubbed</a> from recovered <a href="https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/see-the-vibrant-long-overlooked-colors-of-classical-sculptures-180980321/">Greek sculptures</a>.</p> <p>This supposed heritage of a white classical past defined <a href="https://mymodernmet.com/what-is-neoclassicism/">what became known as neoclassical</a> styles further expanding the craze for light, white gowns, a political fashion needing endless care. </p> <p>In this era, “the term classical was not neutral,” as art historian Charmaine Nelson explains, “<a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/42631206">but a racialized term</a> …” Nelson states that the category “classical” also defined the marginalization of Blackness as its antithesis.</p> <p>Today, some scholars are wrestling <a href="https://www.famsf.org/about/publications/gods-color-polychromy-ancient-world">with the legacy of racism built into classical studies</a>.</p> <h2>Racialized masquerade</h2> <p>Neoclassical gowns reflected this zeitgeist, as ladies disported themselves as Greek goddesses. Ladies’ magazines urged readers to play-act as deities. Simple socializing en vogue would not suffice. Fashion required a wider stage. </p> <p>Masquerade balls became the venue where whiteness and empire aligned, as goddesses robed in white mingled with guests in blackface or regalia appropriated from colonized peoples. </p> <p>Masquerades became staple occasions, revels led by royals, nobles and those enriched through trade and slave labour.</p> <h2>Race hierarchies enforced</h2> <p>Seemingly banal routines (and stylish affairs) reveal cultural facets of empire where race hierarchies were reinforced. In this era, everyday dress and celebratory fashions demanded relentless attention. </p> <p>These routines were enmeshed with empire and race, whether in the colonial Caribbean or a London grand masquerade. </p> <p>The proliferation of white linens and cottons were purposefully employed to enforce hierarchies. The rise of white clothing and neoclassical style can be better understood by addressing mass enslavement as an economic, political and cultural force shaping styles, determining vogues and promoting the fashions of whiteness.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/how-whiteness-was-invented-and-fashioned-in-britains-colonial-age-of-expansion-175027" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. </em></p>

Art

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“My passion since I was a child”: White Island survivor looks to career plans

<p dir="ltr">A survivor of the 2019 White Island volcano eruption has opened up about what she hopes to do next as she continues on her recovery journey.</p> <p dir="ltr">Stephanie Browitt was among the few survivors of the eruption on New Zealand’s Whakaari/White Island, which killed her younger sister, her father, and another 20 people, and left Stephanie with third-degree burns to 70 percent of her body.</p> <p dir="ltr">Since then, the 26-year-old has faced a difficult road to recovery which included the recent <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/health/caring/it-s-emotional-and-scary-white-island-eruption-survivor-removes-her-face-mask" target="_blank" rel="noopener">removal of her final burns garment</a> during an interview with 60 Minutes.</p> <p dir="ltr">Now, she has turned an eye towards her potential career, hoping to land work in media - her passion since childhood - or as a motivational speaker.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I’m hoping that I can get a career in what I graduated in, which is media and arts, film and TV. That’s been my passion since I was a child,” she told the <em>Today Show</em> on Tuesday.</p> <p dir="ltr">“But I’d also like to land a role in motivational speaking, because I hope that by sharing my experience I can give hope to others and show them that there is a light at the end of the tunnel.”</p> <p dir="ltr">Stephanie, who has shared every step of her recovery with followers online, said she still “struggles quite a lot” but is grateful and doing “okay” overall.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I still struggle quite a lot, but I’m trying to make the most of every day because I’m very grateful for my second chance at life,” she said.</p> <p dir="ltr">Though removing her final burns garment, a compression mask that covered her face, felt “daunting”, she reflected that she has felt more like herself since.</p> <p dir="ltr">“It was quite daunting at the beginning,” Stephanie said.</p> <p dir="ltr">“But since taking all of my compression garments off I do feel a lot more free and feel like myself again.</p> <p dir="ltr">“They were quite uncomfortable and hard to put up with and tight … they were very painful and caused a lot of horrible days.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I’m very glad that I can now express myself through my wardrobe and my make-up and I don’t feel like it’s holding me back anymore.”</p> <p dir="ltr">Appearing on the<em> Today Show </em>to promote DonateLife Week, Stephanie urged Aussies to sign up as organ or tissue donors and spoke about her own experience receiving donated tissue.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I received skin tissue donations from multiple donors and I needed that … obviously when you have so many open wounds, you're at a higher risk of infection and you're also leaking bodily fluids. There was not enough of my own good skin to use to cover those areas,” she said</p> <p dir="ltr">“There are millions of Australians who want to sign up. People support it but tell themselves they will do it later.</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-ed2c14c5-7fff-424c-d71d-d5fac4a5a691"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">“It is quick. It takes one minute.”</p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image: @stephaniecoral96 (Instagram)</em></p>

Money & Banking

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Female tennis stars speak out against all-white Wimbledon dress code

<p dir="ltr">Wimbledon, one of the most long standing and prestigious tennis competitions on the sporting calendar, is steeped in tradition, including a strict all-white dress code for its players.</p> <p dir="ltr">While Nick Kyrgios came under fire for wearing red shoes and a red cap on the court, female players have spoken out about the anxiety the dress code causes when it comes to a common experience: periods.</p> <p dir="ltr">Aussie player Daria Saville told <em><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CfpkO3ChCzY/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Daily Aus</a></em> she has needed to skip her period as a result of the dress code, while others have spoken about the stress that comes from worrying about bleeding through their ‘Wimbledon whites’.</p> <p dir="ltr">“Recently just being at Wimbledon, I was talking with my friends saying that I love the all-white look,” the no. 98 told the outlet.</p> <p dir="ltr">“But then a few girls said they hate it because it sucks to wear all white while being on your period.</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-a4d3f821-7fff-b193-7108-8df2c756bfeb"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">“It’s true, I myself had to skip my period around Wimbledon for the reason that I didn’t want to worry about bleeding through, as we already have enough stress.”</p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">As we enter the last week of <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/Wimbledon?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#Wimbledon</a>, we think its time to have a real discussion around the all white dress code and how it feeds period shame amongst professionals and young girls. <a href="https://t.co/oKhDXB2Jo9">https://t.co/oKhDXB2Jo9</a></p> <p>— holly (@hollygordonn) <a href="https://twitter.com/hollygordonn/status/1543877058496978944?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">July 4, 2022</a></p></blockquote> <p dir="ltr">Wimbledon’s strict dress code was written in the 1880s, when any form of sweat on an athlete’s clothing was considered improper and rude, with “undergarments” that are visible or could be visible because of sweat also subject to the rule.</p> <p dir="ltr">The all-white attire was believed to minimise the visibility of sweat while helping the players stay cool, according to <em><a href="https://www.sbs.com.au/news/the-feed/article/female-tennis-stars-detail-anxiety-of-strict-wimbledon-dress-code/m1zsxut2i" target="_blank" rel="noopener">SBS</a></em>.</p> <p dir="ltr">As beneficial as it may be to help players stay cool in hotter temperatures, its impact on female players seems to outweigh any benefits, with some athletes even turning to birth control to skip their period around the competition.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I’ll probably go on the pill just to skip my period for Wimbledon,” British player Heather Watson recently told the <em>BBC</em>. “That’s the thought process and the conversation girls have around it.”</p> <p dir="ltr">British star Alicia Barnett recently opened up about the mental stress of wearing white while on her period, all while also dealing with the accompanying symptoms that impact her performance.</p> <p dir="ltr">In an interview with the PA news agency, she said that though she loves the tradition, “some traditions could be changed” in her opinion.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I, for one, am a massive advocate for women’s rights and I think having this discussion is just amazing, that people are now talking about it,” Barnett said.</p> <p dir="ltr">“Personally, I love the tradition of all-whites and I think we will handle it pretty well.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I think being on your period on tour is hard enough, but to wear whites as well isn’t easy.”</p> <p dir="ltr">Reflecting on the physical impact of menstruation on performance, Barnett told PA: “Your body feels looser, your tendons get looser, sometimes you feel like you’re a lot more fatigued, sometimes your coordination just feels really off, and for me I feel really down and it’s hard to get motivation.</p> <p dir="ltr">“Obviously, you’re trying to play world-class tennis but it’s really hard when you're PMS-ing and you feel bloated and tired.<br />“Why do we need to be shy about talking about it?”</p> <p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-1f2b69c7-7fff-fa34-f9df-adc49784764e"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">Former athlete Monica Puig addressed the issue on Twitter in May, responding to commentator David Law’s tweet where he revealed that he had never considered the physical impact of menstruation on athletes during his 25 years working in tennis.</p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">Definitely something that affects female athletes! Finally bringing it to everyone’s attention! Not to mention the mental stress of having to wear all white at Wimbledon and praying not to have your period during those two weeks. <a href="https://t.co/PzyHnPlSJk">https://t.co/PzyHnPlSJk</a></p> <p>— Monica Puig (@MonicaAce93) <a href="https://twitter.com/MonicaAce93/status/1531588251642912768?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">May 31, 2022</a></p></blockquote> <p dir="ltr">“Definitely something that affects female athletes!” Puig wrote in response. “Finally bringing it to everyone’s attention! Not to mention the mental stress of having to wear all white at Wimbledon and praying not to have your period during those two weeks.”</p> <p dir="ltr">Law is among a growing number of commentators also addressing the issue, including The Tennis Podcast host Catherine Whitaker, who has said the dress code has outlived its time and has called for the rules to be more flexible.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I would like to see it change,” she said in one interview. “If they had a clothing policy that affected men in the way that it does women, I don’t think that particular tradition would last.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I cannot imagine going into the biggest day of my life, with my period, and being forced to wear white.”</p> <p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-d7e8b3a1-7fff-1842-646a-9329fcbc23a1"></span></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Clever mum shares the ultimate laundry hack for clean sheets

<p>Aussie mum Dina Santos has been sharing handy home hints and tricks over on her popular Instagram page.</p> <p>Her latest is a little-known hack of adding salt and baking soda to each load of white sheets or clothes to help them keep their bright white colour. The home stylist also recommends not overloading the drum and putting whites on a warm-wash so they come out as fresh and clean as ever.</p> <p>"Put all your whites in the washing compartment making sure you never overload," she wrote in the clip.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cfa1sdZARC_/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"> </div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cfa1sdZARC_/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by Home styling with dina (@dina.sweethome.style_)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <p>Dina said to make sure to put washing liquids or powder in the right compartment in the detergent drawer as per the machine's instructions.</p> <p>She used a laundry pod and scent boosters that go straight into the drum along with her bed linen.</p> <p>“Add two full teaspoons of baking soda and two of salt flakes (I swear ladies, this work miracles and your whites come out beautifully),” the mum-of-two suggested.</p> <p>Dina's clip racked up thousands of views and hundreds of comments from many of her followers thankful for the sharing the clever hacks.</p> <p><em>Images: Instagram</em></p>

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